2001 Cadillac Deville problems

[sarakw806]

STOP - go to the dealer - they sell a line splice that is exactly for your type of application for less than $5.00. It consists of a compression fitting - you cut out the bad area of the air line and install the splice. There is no need to replace the entire line.

[mike5514]

Im trying to get a handle on your problem, in your first post you state it runs fine in later post the car idles rough and it has a hard time going over 66 mph and it vibrates at that speed. Plz check for more codes you may have a severe engine misfire A northstar should go past 66 like a f16 fighter jet. Very good post. Mike

[love0126]

Woah, no way it would cost that much to replace a cheap air line. This is a load of BS. I really hope you don't let them as much as change out a muffler for you. If they're that shady, I wouldn't trust them to even air up my tires.

[sarakw806]

STOP - go to the dealer - they sell a line splice that is exactly for your type of application for less than $5.00. It consists of a compression fitting - you cut out the bad area of the air line and install the splice. There is no need to replace the entire line.

[sarakw806]

Well, I am doing an update on my cadillac, well come to find out that my tires were making my Cadillac act the way it did, I bought bought quit a few repairs for it, when it started to get costly I decided to start from the bottom up again and did oil changes and bought a set of new tires and Bam!!! that took care of it, just like that. Amazing, and I was going to spend money on all kinds of stuff.

[Rashida24]

I have a 2001 Cadillac Deville northstar 4.6l. I came out of the pharmacy one day and it wouldn't start. I turned the key over and it made a clicking noise. It done this several times. I call a mechanic out and it done the same thing. So he repeatedly turned over the key and it no longer made the noise. He said it was my starter. He towed my car to the shop and for two whole weeks, could not tell me what was wrong. Then, finally they said they put o. A brand new starter and it didn't work then they rebuilt my starter and put it back on. Then said my car crank like five or six times and wouldnt crank anymore. Then, more days go by and I heard nothing and then I go by there and they were saying that they can't figure it out and out of nowhere they come up with I have water in my pistons and I need a new motor. My motor wasn't locked when they got my car. So I pay $250 for a repair that they claim wasn't even the problem. So with that information, can you guide me in the right direction as to what it may be and if I have to replace the entire motor or just parts of it and will it be costly? Those mechanics were shiesters.

[Cadillac Jim]

They seem to be saying that the car is hydrolocked because the starter wouldn't turn over the car. This does not fit the fact that the car starts and runs occasionally. Also, if an engine is locked, anybody can tell that in two seconds by turning the key and getting a big fat thunk and all the car lights dimming, and after a second or two the battery will fall to its knees. This is not at all the problem you are describing.

First, tow your car to a safe place.

Second, you can run the on-board diagnostics (OBD) from the air conditioner buttons on your dashboard. Follow the link in my signature block for a Caddyinfo page on instructions on how to do this.

The OBD device trouble codes (DTCs) almost certainly will tell you what it happening with the starting problem. Usually it is a bad connection with the pellet in the key and is fixed by cleaning the ignition lock, cleaning the key, a new key, or new contacts in the ignition lock. Other problems that can cause this are a bad battery cable connection at the positive terminal of the battery, a bad relay in the electrical system, the starter solenoid, a bad ground, or one of the ground cables for the battery. Most of these will throw an OBD code that will tell the tale. Some starter problems will not throw an OBD code, but if there is one, solving the problem is easy. A problem with no codes gets us back to simple things like battery, cables, and relays.

[rockfangd]

Your mirror code if I recall has to do with your memory presets. You should have 4 buttons on the drivers door. 1,2, set, and exit. The code is saying it does not see the correct position on the mirror in question. Not a big deal, fairly common, just means it may not set itself when you are in reverse or when you start the car.

If you are charged 450 to fix the window or a hole in a air line which sounds fishy ?I would find someone else to look at your car otherwise you will be broke and in the same hole.

also Today it is definately not just women. I am a full time diesel mechanic and part time mechanic for myself and Places still try to play me like I dont have a clue. That just makes me take my business elsewhere

[Cadillac Jim]

Well, I look funny and talk funny (hick Texas accent), I'm not a big guy, and have a bone-deep congenial manner. I'm going to write a book on the *deals* I have been offered over my uncomfortably long life.

I recall reading a phrase from a short course in high-pressure salesmanship in the early days of the WWW when things like that were just starting to become public knowledge: "The sale just begins when the customer says no."

When I was looking at getting the ETC miss fixed in March, no one suggested a top-end cleaning job, which would have done it as things turned out - and it didn't occur to me . I mentally priced a valve job at $1500 and got bids from $2000 to $3500. One guy wanted to sell me another Jasper for $7500 - the same guy who wanted to sell me a valve job for $3500. Hey, I didn't ask for work on the car because I was in a corner, but because I wanted my car back toot sweet and I didn't have a place to work on it, or the time. For $3500 I could *rent* a place to work on it with a lift, *rent* an engine/transmission jack and maybe even an engine stand, do it myself, and come out way, way ahead on the price. And, I would have spotted the cam tensioner and avoided possible future problems into the mists of time. Or, I could have had a dealer do a top-end clean for a couple of hundred while I went shopping with the wife and had the car back the same day.

The thing to watch for is the ASE symbol:

Make sure that the mechanic's name is on the same piece of paper, *printed* (and not in his handwriting!). The second thing to look for is if everyone is smiling - if so, take French leave instantly. I will say that the local well-padded bids and an not-so-padded bordeline bid were from people who did have techs with ASE certification, and I would recommend all these people, with the caveat to be willing to negotiate or, as I did, just say no.

In every con job, there is a point at which the victim must say "yes." As long as the victim says NO, proceeding is a criminal act.