shenKing Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 My car has been driven in snow belt area where a lot of salt is used to melt the snow. As a result the brake pipes are quite rusted. What is the best approach in fixing it? Replace all the brake lines or just when needed? Has any one replaced theirs and at what price? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 The best thing to do is remove the old line, measure it and go buy a new line, bend it to the shape of the old one and reconnect. It is very inexpensive and easy to do. The lines are easy to bend with your hands or you can buy the bend tool if you like. You can go to any parts store and buy a line with 2 connecting nuts in about any length. If the length is a little long a few little bends can shorten them. Be sure to get the same connecting nuts as on the old because if you strip out a connector you compound your problem and it will leak. Getting the nuts out will be your biggest challange that a little WD40 can take care of. After the lines are finished add fluid, check for leaks, bleed the air out of the lines and your done. As far as replacing them all at once, a quick inspection can determine that. If the lines have a lot of rust on them then it would be a good idea to change them all. Check around at any shop if you do not want to do it yourself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenKing Posted September 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 Thanks Paul. From your description it appears that the whole line should be replaced instead of just cutting the bad section and coupling it. I had imagined all the twist and bends to be tough. What do you use for anchoring the line and how about ISO flaring the ends. Can you buy these already flared? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 What do you use for anchoring the line and how about ISO flaring the ends. Can you buy these already flared? lines are usually sold flared, but if your length is "custom" you have to flare (double flare) yourself. I have done it when fixed my hydrawlic modulator. It is not dofficult and the tools are not expensive. You can get them at any car parts store (say, NAPA). The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 You can buy the lines already flared with a nut on each end. Just bend and replace. Just be careful if you bend the lines by hand that you do not crimp the line in sharp corners. Be careful that if the lines are metric, get metric lines. The english and metric nuts are color coded, metric is blue and english is green I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted September 1, 2004 Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 What do you use for anchoring the line and how about ISO flaring the ends. Can you buy these already flared? lines are usually sold flared, but if your length is "custom" you have to flare (double flare) yourself. I have done it when fixed my hydrawlic modulator. It is not dofficult and the tools are not expensive. You can get them at any car parts store (say, NAPA). Most, if not all of the fittings are the ISO flare. Sometimes called the bubble flare. Check the shop manual to be sure. ISO flare takes a different flaring tool than a double lap flare. You can also buy the lines pre-flared with the ISO flare. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenKing Posted September 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2004 Thanks for all the help. This board is really great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 It would be difficult to match the integrity of the stock routing using pre-flared lines. It's best to buy some high quality line and an ISO flaring tool then do the job yourself; I don't know of any mechanic that would take the time to retain all the factory clips and routing. Surface rust is acceptable, but any 'flaking' areas should be examined thoroughly. If the surrounding line is solid, you could get away with replacing sections, although I've found the ISO unions are more expensive. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 It would be difficult to match the integrity of the stock routing using pre-flared lines. It's best to buy some high quality line and an ISO flaring tool then do the job yourself; I don't know of any mechanic that would take the time to retain all the factory clips and routing. Surface rust is acceptable, but any 'flaking' areas should be examined thoroughly. If the surrounding line is solid, you could get away with replacing sections, although I've found the ISO unions are more expensive. Actually matching the existing is not that hard and it is not rocket science. I just replaced the 60" front line on my 88 F150 and hit every factory clip there was in the same route with a preflared line. As far as quality, I found them to be no different than the unflared line and you use less tools. I bought a tube bender when I replaced my rear lines but I bent the front line by hand, much easier. They even have compression fitting couplers that do not require end flaring. In all the years I have replaced brake lines I have found the preflared lines much easier. To each there own though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cupillac Posted September 2, 2004 Report Share Posted September 2, 2004 I had all my brake lines replaced this spring, they were all rusted out like you described. My mechanic did the job for around $500 Cdn. It's quite the labour replacing all of them. "Cadillac, it's not a car, it's an obsession" -W.Kingdon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 Actually matching the existing is not that hard and it is not rocket science. I just replaced the 60" front line on my 88 F150 and hit every factory clip there was in the same route with a preflared line. As far as quality, I found them to be no different than the unflared line and you use less tools. What if you needed 65" inches? It's surprising how exact the lengths must be to keep everything neat. Test the hardness and evaluate how quickly some lines corrode compared to the factory stuff! ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 What if you needed 65" inches? It's surprising how exact the lengths must be to keep everything neat. Test the hardness and evaluate how quickly some lines corrode compared to the factory stuff! Look Kevin I do not want to go around and around with you, all I know is that I have used both kinds on 3 different vehicles in 25 years and noticed no difference in hardness or amount of time they last. The preflared can be bought up to 72". The main point is that no matter what you use, it is not a difficult job to do and you do not have to buy a bunch of tools to do it. It is like any other job that just takes time. If you really want them to last buy stainless steel. I am just giving my 2 cents not trying to be argumentive. If I struck a cord I am sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoo Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 I've looked all over for stainless lines and i can't find any execpt extremely expensive flexible braided stainless :/ anyone have any idea where to get some? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinW Posted September 3, 2004 Report Share Posted September 3, 2004 If you really want them to last buy stainless steel. I am just giving my 2 cents not trying to be argumentive. If I struck a cord I am sorry. No chords struck, but if I paid to have such a repair, and saw all sorts of loops and zigzags underneath, I'd be very upset. I've had trouble dealing with one extra inch, which is why I was recommending doing things from scratch. I wouldn't touch stainless without the proper tools! Steel lines will last 'forever' if rustproofing is applied properly and maintained periodically. I've only repaired lines on pre-owned vehicles. ___________________________________________________ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phillip Posted September 5, 2004 Report Share Posted September 5, 2004 Stainless lines are probably great on a new car, but I bet steel lines will give good service on a '92. They are easy to work with and easy to get. I would recommend buying or borrowing a double flaring tool and replacing all the lines. If you just replace one, you will be replacing another very soon. I did my Olds a couple of years ago and it cost about $30 for the parts and then some brake fluid. By the way, make sure you have a flare nut wrench or you will strip the connectors. Good luck. Phillip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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