Pulled My Northstar: Questions About Replacement Parts

[jrz]

I recently got a 1996 Eldorado with a Northstar engine. I've never posted on a forum before and I've never pulled an engine before, until now, and I have almost no mechanical experience. I am looking for answers and advice for a few problems. I've read so many different opposing posts and articles already and I can't remember which ones were more up to date (or tell if they are even reliable). So I would appreciate it if you guys could help me out in anyway, like a link to some up to date threads or sites.

1. I'm not sure what head gaskets to purchase.

I mostly hear that OEM head gaskets are the best choice (I would also like to know where to find these). I've heard a lot of people and profesionals recommending just using Felpro. Some even say they're exactly the same as the OEM. Also, It seems that some people have doubts about the reliability of Cometic Gaskets or if they're worth the price. I would like to get a whole Head Gasket Set, but can't find a better one than Felpro. So I'm wondering how are these gaskets holding up?

2. I'm planning on getting a Northstar Performance's SureGrip Stud Kit.

How much would it cost for a shop to put them in? Are they easy to put in yourself (Instructions or videos anywhere?)? And I read somewhere that members on this site get a $50 discount on the Stud Kit, so I'm of course wondering if I can get that discount.

3. What is the preferred oil and coolant.

So after I get this all back together, I'd like it to be properly maintained. I've read a few places that universal green coolant should be used instead of the Dex-Cool. I've also read about some sealer pellet that you should put in every time you change the coolant, and I've also read you should only use them like once. And what certain type/brand of oil is everyone using?

4. Is there anything else I should consider replacing while everything is out in the open? The car only has 90,000 miles on it.

I will continue my search and I'm sorry if these have all been answered thoroughly, but I'm in a hurry (like everybody else) and could use some quick help. Let me know if you have any questions about any step in removing the engine and taking it apart.

Thanks

[Bruce Nunnally]

1. Head Gasket to get: If you plan to use Northstar Performance's solution I would get the kit from them. They list:

-Full Head Gasket Kit $295 (intake seals, head gaskets, valve seals, exhaust seals, throttle body, etc.)

2. Cost depends on the shop. Northstar Performance will do the engine if you ship it to them for $1K (canadian?) flat

Discount: We setup the discount relationship in 2009, but hopefully Jake would still honor in 2010. Please confirm with Jake. (Discussion thread on discounts).

3. Check your owner's manual. Depends somewhat on your climate. The engines were developed and tested on conventional oil in 1996.

4. Seals

[KHE]

I recently got a 1996 Eldorado with a Northstar engine. I've never posted on a forum before and I've never pulled an engine before, until now, and I have almost no mechanical experience. I am looking for answers and advice for a few problems. I've read so many different opposing posts and articles already and I can't remember which ones were more up to date (or tell if they are even reliable). So I would appreciate it if you guys could help me out in anyway, like a link to some up to date threads or sites.

1. I'm not sure what head gaskets to purchase.

I mostly hear that OEM head gaskets are the best choice (I would also like to know where to find these). I've heard a lot of people and profesionals recommending just using Felpro. Some even say they're exactly the same as the OEM. Also, It seems that some people have doubts about the reliability of Cometic Gaskets or if they're worth the price. I would like to get a whole Head Gasket Set, but can't find a better one than Felpro. So I'm wondering how are these gaskets holding up?

2. I'm planning on getting a Northstar Performance's SureGrip Stud Kit.

How much would it cost for a shop to put them in? Are they easy to put in yourself (Instructions or videos anywhere?)? And I read somewhere that members on this site get a $50 discount on the Stud Kit, so I'm of course wondering if I can get that discount.

3. What is the preferred oil and coolant.

So after I get this all back together, I'd like it to be properly maintained. I've read a few places that universal green coolant should be used instead of the Dex-Cool. I've also read about some sealer pellet that you should put in every time you change the coolant, and I've also read you should only use them like once. And what certain type/brand of oil is everyone using?

4. Is there anything else I should consider replacing while everything is out in the open? The car only has 90,000 miles on it.

I will continue my search and I'm sorry if these have all been answered thoroughly, but I'm in a hurry (like everybody else) and could use some quick help. Let me know if you have any questions about any step in removing the engine and taking it apart.

Thanks

First, get a factory service manual for the car before starting the repair. Don't get a Haynes, Chiltons, or other knockoff... you can find a factory service manual on ebay for a reasonable price. I prefer the paper manuals over the DVD versions that never seem to work.

Felpro is likely the OEM supplier of gaskets. Felpro is a Federal Mogul company and Federal Mogul is a huge supplier to GM. I used Felpro head gaskets on a Northstar engine I just rebuilt. I would use them again without hesitation. You can also price the OEM parts at gmotors.com. You will need to buy new headbolts with the Felpro gaskets. Headbolts are included with the headgaskets from GM.

I believe the studs are simple to install - there is a drill fixture that needs to be used and you'll need a decent 1/2" variable speed drill such as the "Milwaukee Magnum Holeshooter". Northstar Performance can comment further on the stud installation. You'll need a torque-angle meter also for torquing the heads. A power steering pulley puller is required to remove the water pump pulley from the front exhaust camshaft.

If the engine has not been contaminated with green coolant, use Dexcool. That is what the engine is designed to use. Don't confuse all the bad information concerning Dexcool in the 4.3 V6 with the Northstar engie. Oil - use conventional 10W-30 oil. I use the Shell Rotella 10W-30 as it has additional antiwear compounds that are needed for these engines. Use a tube of Bars Leaks golden seal in the lower radiator hose for the coolant.

If the blower motor housing is brittle and crumbling, replace it while the engine is out. Also, if the blower motor is the original design (with the 1/2" steel plate on the face), replace it while the engine is out. You will need to buy the fiberglass heat shield for use with the new blower motor.

I would recommend replacing the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold seals (graphite "donuts") while the crossover pipe is off the engine to assure you won't have exhaust leaks. Be sure to tighten the flange evenly during reassembly.

Note the routing of the sensor wiring along the front of the engine - take notes, pictures, etc. so you get it back in the proper position so it is not near the hot exhaust manifold.

I would drop the powertrain out of the bottom of the car - lift the body off the cradle with an engine hoist. There are so many bolts that are in wierd angles that are a PITA to access when removing the engine from the top that won't be an issue if the body is lifted off the powertrain.

[jrz]

Thank you both for the detailed answers. About the coolant though. I don't know if any previous owners used green coolant or not (since the car said only Dexcool I assumed that was all thats been used in it), but the car turned out to have a crack in the radiator and I had to go to a shop to get it replaced. He put green coolant in it and when I asked him about it he said it was fine and whatever. The green coolant was completely gone in a month or two because of the blown headgasket, and then I put Dexcool in it. Based on that, what should I use as coolant? Looking back I wish I would've looked up all of this on the internet.

I think I'm going to go with Felpro considering all the good things I've heard.

Also, I already took the motor out through the top, with a Chiltons manual. It actually went along smoothly... for the most part. The angles of some of the bolts almost boggled the mind. Thanks for the hint about the wiring behind the exhaust manifold, the seals, the blower motor and everything else.

[KHE]

If the green coolant was "universal" coolant, it is silicate free so you should be able to switch back to Dexcool. If it was the silicated green coolant, the silicates will deplete the corrosion inhibitiors in the Dexcool. I'd still use Dexcool but you will need to change it every 2 years instead of 5 years.

If your engine has the original lip style rear main seal, I would get the new cartridge type rear main seal. The cartridge seal will never leak but you need a special installation tool to install it.

[jrz]

If the green coolant was "universal" coolant, it is silicate free so you should be able to switch back to Dexcool. If it was the silicated green coolant, the silicates will deplete the corrosion inhibitiors in the Dexcool. I'd still use Dexcool but you will need to change it every 2 years instead of 5 years.

If your engine has the original lip style rear main seal, I would get the new cartridge type rear main seal. The cartridge seal will never leak but you need a special installation tool to install it.

Is that seal worth replacing, considering the cost of the special tool? I can't tell if it's that bad since the flywheel is still on it... which reminds me. Can you somehow find out what size it is without taking the flywheel off?

Is the cartridge style the 2nd Design one from felpro? Autozone can't seem to help me much on this.. same with the exact special tool I need, which they dont have anyways.

http://www.autopartsnerd.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1996-CADILLAC-Eldorado&yearid=1996%40%401996&makeid=14%40%40CADILLAC%40%40B&modelid=2061%40%40ELDORADO&engineid=17787%40%40V8%2D281ci+4%2E6L+F%2FI+Vin+Y%40%4017787&keyword=rear+main&subcatid=106@@GASKETS+MISCELLANEOUS+%2F+Indvidual+Gaskets+and+Seals@@2730&mode=PA&waitdisplay=True&rewrite=

Are both those cartidge type ones? or just the 12mm one?

I knew I shouldve taken the flywheel off, but the person helping me pull it out said leave it. I would like to get the Felpro Conversion Gasket Set, but since I don't know the size of the seal I don't know what set to get, and with everything off the block at the moment I don't think I can hold it up with chains... I'm going to go figure somethin out, but thanks for any help you can give.

I don't understand why everything isn't listed on any site i can find, or why Autozone doesn't know either, but what are the other parts in this Conversion Gasket Set? besides the oil pan, front plate and rear main.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/catalog/parts/partsProduct.jsp?itemIdentifier=629788_12043_0_40253&skuDescription=Felpro+/+Conversion+Gasket+Set&brandName=Felpro&displayName=Conversion+Gasket+Set&categoryNValue=15199999&sortType=&store=2227&isSearchByPartNumber=false&fromWhere=&fromString=search&counter=0&itemId=760-0&navValue=15100760&filterByKeyWord=conversion+gasket&productId=629788&searchText=conversion+gasket&categoryDisplayName=Internal+Engine&parentId=51-0

[KHE]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. You MUST use the GM sealant, p/n 12378521 as there is NO substitute. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

[BodybyFisher]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

I always enjoy reading your posts, they are always insightful. Good mechanic, proper technique and procedure. I was thinking before that when I need direction, I go to you. I must know what you do for a living Kevin but forgot, what is it

[KHE]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

I always enjoy reading your posts, they are always insightful. Good mechanic, proper technique and procedure. I was thinking before that when I need direction, I go to you. I must know what you do for a living Kevin but forgot, what is it

I am an engineer.

[BodybyFisher]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

I always enjoy reading your posts, they are always insightful. Good mechanic, proper technique and procedure. I was thinking before that when I need direction, I go to you. I must know what you do for a living Kevin but forgot, what is it

I am an engineer.

That makes a lot of sense, I'm not surprised

[jrz]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. You MUST use the GM sealant, p/n 12378521 as there is NO substitute. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

Like bobbyfisher said, your posts are full of great information and very much appreciated.

I was confused about the rear main seal, since they apparently switched the size part way through 1996. I already got an engine stand and I agree, well worth the $40. I thought the stand was in the way of the flywheel, but I got it out and turns out I have the new 12mm rear main seal. I don't think they have the special tool on ebay right now, but if anyone is reading and is willing to get rid of one, let me know. Some guy on Caddilacforum.com said just to get something the same size and tap it in with a hammer, although that might be the old model of rear main seal he's talking about.

Also, rockauto.com has great prices for flepro gasket sets. thanks for that.

[KHE]

If the rear main seal is the old lip seal, I would replace it with the new cartridge seal. You don't want the rear main to start leaking after you go through the work of R&Ring the engine. Just my opinion.

The old lip seal is black rubber with an internal garter spring. The new cartridge seal has a green metal inner ring that presses onto the crankshaft. The green coating is actually a sealant that bonds to the crankshft. The outer diameter is rubber and that contacts the crankcase. A thin coat of GM engine sealer needs to be applied to the crankcase and the applicator screed tool must be used to assure the correct amount of sealant is left on the crankcase or the oil return hole will be plugged. You MUST use the GM sealant, p/n 12378521 as there is NO substitute. There is a special installation tool that is needed to install the seal. You can often find the special tools on ebay for a reasonable price or you can bring the engine to your local Cadillac dealer's service department and have them install the seal for you. Application of the sealant and installation of the seal should not take more than 30 minutes of labor. It is more like a 15 minute job but I doubt you'll get them to do it for 1/4 hour of labor...

Autozone won't be much help. I buy parts from rockauto.com or gmotors.com (for factory parts). The conversion gasket set from Felpro contains the oil pan gasket, crankcase half seals, timing cover gasket, oil cooler line o-rings, dipstick tube o-ring, crankshaft sensor o-ring, and the water pump cover seal and o-ring.

Buy or borrow an engine stand - you can always sell it after you're done. That will put the block at a good working height so you're not bending over it. It makes the job so much easier.

Like bobbyfisher said, your posts are full of great information and very much appreciated.

I was confused about the rear main seal, since they apparently switched the size part way through 1996. I already got an engine stand and I agree, well worth the $40. I thought the stand was in the way of the flywheel, but I got it out and turns out I have the new 12mm rear main seal. I don't think they have the special tool on ebay right now, but if anyone is reading and is willing to get rid of one, let me know. Some guy on Caddilacforum.com said just to get something the same size and tap it in with a hammer, although that might be the old model of rear main seal he's talking about.

Also, rockauto.com has great prices for flepro gasket sets. thanks for that.

If your engine already has the new cartridge seal, you don't need to replace it - it is good for 1 million miles - seriously. Look for traces of the green sealant that has been transferred to the crankshaft. You'll need to remove the flywheel to see. When you reinstall the flywheel - use new bolts as they have a threadlocker/sealant on them. I think they increased the seal thickness from 5mm to 12mm and then changed again to the cartridge seal but am not positive on that other than the cartridge seal is the very latest design.

If you have the old lip seal and need to install the new cartridge seal, you MUST use the special tools or the seal will be damaged. The person on the other forum was most likely referring to the lip seal and not the cartridge seal. You need the special tool because the seal presses into the block as well as the crankshaft OD.

The tool numbers are:

EN-48072-2 Sealant applicator

EN-48072-1 Pilot - usually included with the applicator but with ebay, you never know.

J-45930-A Cartridge seal installer.

If you can't find them at a good price, it makes sense to take the engine to a dealer with your new seal and have them install it for you.

[edb150]

I dont suppose your in Illinois? If so I have the applicator and installer that you can borrow. I got real lusky and found them on ebay for around 50 bucks total

[jrz]

I dont suppose your in Illinois? If so I have the applicator and installer that you can borrow. I got real lusky and found them on ebay for around 50 bucks total

Nope, not even close, Oregon. Thanks though.

How many seals and gaskets (From the Felpro head gasket and conversion gasket sets, which I guess is everything on the engine) are going to require a special tool of some kind anyways (I've got the heads and oil pan off at the moment)? Rear main seal, water pump ring and front cover oil seal? I think I'm just going to take it over to a shop and get them all.

[KHE]

In addition to the rear main seal installation tool, the front crankshaft seal requires an installation tool but that is just a tool that is used with a hammer to drive the seal into place. That can be fabricated vs. purchased.

Since you've removed the heads, you probebly have a power steering pulley puller which is needed to remove the water pump pulley from the front exhaust cam. If you're going to change the water pump, the water pump removal tool can be purchased at any auto parts store.

That's about it for the special tools.

[jrz]

In addition to the rear main seal installation tool, the front crankshaft seal requires an installation tool but that is just a tool that is used with a hammer to drive the seal into place. That can be fabricated vs. purchased.

Since you've removed the heads, you probebly have a power steering pulley puller which is needed to remove the water pump pulley from the front exhaust cam. If you're going to change the water pump, the water pump removal tool can be purchased at any auto parts store.

That's about it for the special tools.

Hopefully this will be the last question I'll have. I'm not sure whether or not to reseal the case halves yet (because I don't think the leak's bad at all). I'm sure you've seen this http://mechdb.com/index.php/GM_Northstar_case_halves_reseal , I think I read that you did one recently. How'd it go? By the way, most of those pictures aren't showing up... is it the same with you?

Anyway, someone else was asking if you use the Felpro seals with the sealant, and I'm wondering the same thing. Also, should I have the Rear Main Seal in before or after doing the reseal? It's $50 for the dealership to do it, so I'm gonna go that route and I need to plan this out a little.

"34.Using a suitable tool, spread the sealant in the area near the oil drain back passages away from the oil drain back passages and towards the outboard edge of the rail surface." I'm not sure what this means. Smear the sealant away from the inner area and towards the outer rim? What are the oil drain back passages?

For the main bearing bolts "53. Final Pass: Tighten the main bearing bolts (1 through 20) an additional 65 degrees in proper sequence using the J 45059." Do I need this J 45059? and what is it?

Like I said earlier, those pictures won't show up. "54.Tighten the crankcase perimeter bolts in the sequence shown. and 53.Tighten the main bearing bolts in the proper sequence." Anyone know these sequences? or have a picture?

Is this harder then I think it is? It already sounds quite difficult.. I've had to many bad experiences with glues and such and I've never sealed anything. But if I've already made it this far is a crankcase reseal going to be any harder?

For those who are interested, I ordered Northstar Performance studs and got the $50 discount easily. I'll take some pictures and let everyone know how it went when the time comes.

[jrz]

Nevermind about the J 45059 tool, I couldn't find it before.. I must have spealt it wrong.

I found a picture of the upper case surface finally (here's the full size http://community.webshots.com/photo/fullsize/2842461670054203616JdARzA ). I marked it up with some colors so I can describe what I'm talking about without sounding like an idiot.

1. So do I want sealant anywhere other than the seal groove (red line)?

2. Should there be any inside the seal groove where the green lines are?

3. Do I want it going out towards the outside where the blue lines are? Can there be too much sealant as long as it's not plugging any holes?

4. Those holes (yellow box) are the oil drain back passages right?

5. Do those parts where the puple boxes are need to be sealed?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but I'd rather not mess this up.

If anyone has a CadillacOwners.com account can you help me out? http://www.cadillacforums.com/forums/cadillac-tech-tips/117232-case-halves-reseal-fwd-rtv-sealant.html do the pictures in this thread work? I've tried many times to get an account there but they won't let me since I don't have an email adress from an internet provider. I'd like to see all those pictures but I really need the torque sequences for the main bearing bolts and for the half case bolts. thanks.

Oh, and completely unrelated... What's the name of the electrical connector/sensor thing on the center of the side of the rear head on the drivers side? The machinist shredded up the plastic part when resurfacing it, so it's unable to click into the wiring harness part...

[KHE]

The rear main seal gets installed AFTER the crankcase halves are bolted together. The illustration shows the old lip seal and not the current cartridge seal.

Lisle has an inexpensive torque-angle meter that will work just fine.

The GM bulletin says not to discard the seal and use the sealant in the groove - it states to fill the groove with the GM sealant to 3mm above the deck surface. Felpro still includes the seal in the kit. The holes you boxed in yellow in the picture are the drainback holes. You do not need to seal the purple areas.

Someone should be able to post a scan of the torque sequence for the main bearing bolts and case half bolts. Be sure to get the stud for the oil pickup tube in the correct location. Also, have all the tools, new oil distribution plate and the scraper plate handy. You will need to assemble and torque the case halves ready as you have only 20 minutes before the sealant skins over. Practice torquing with the angle meter before you apply the sealant to get used to using it. A small amount of engine oil on the main bolts will help when torquing - the bolt will be much less likely to chatter when torquing.

[jrz]

I've been busy, but I now have the engine back in the car, but not hooked up. I put in the studs and it went fine, and I've never even drilled into metal before. The case reseal also went well. Anyway, I come bearing a few questions. It's been a while so I don't remember if the flanges on the exhaust pipe at the Y suppose to be flat against eachother? I'm guessing only the smaller one to the front exhaust manifold does, and since the larger one didn't have a gasket (or is it suppose to have a gasket?) it just has to be as tight as i can get it. I had trouble lining the engine back up.. so I am worried that I couldn't get neither one tightened all the way down.

Anyone have any tips on torquing the small bellhouse bolt (below the rear head, on the very right above the transmission... the hardest one to get to)? Also, how do you torque the flywheel to the torque converter bolts?

Thanks for the help.

Let me know If you would like to know more about the studs. I got the instructions if anyone wants to see them, but it was so easy you can guess what needs to be done just by looking at the kit's picture. Also, he told me he would be coming out with a fixture soon that would ensure you can't drill any holes crooked.

[KHE]

The flanges of the exhaust pipe do not contact each other. There is a torque spec. in the shop[ manual for the flange bolts. Tighten them evenly and then torque them evenly - 1/4 turn each stud or you'll have an exhaust leak. The graphite donuts really should be replaced but it is too late for the front one now that the engine is in the car.

The bellhousing bolt you refer to is a PITA to torque - I used a combination of extensions and universal joint to gain access to the bolt.

The flywheel to torque converter bolts are torqued by using a long extension to get the torque wrench in an area where it can be rotated/used. I use blue thread locker on the bolts.

[jrz]

The flanges of the exhaust pipe do not contact each other. There is a torque spec. in the shop[ manual for the flange bolts. Tighten them evenly and then torque them evenly - 1/4 turn each stud or you'll have an exhaust leak. The graphite donuts really should be replaced but it is too late for the front one now that the engine is in the car.

The bellhousing bolt you refer to is a PITA to torque - I used a combination of extensions and universal joint to gain access to the bolt.

The flywheel to torque converter bolts are torqued by using a long extension to get the torque wrench in an area where it can be rotated/used. I use blue thread locker on the bolts.

Thanks man. I am going to get a manual when I get the chance... my Chilton one only says something like "and tighten the exhaust Y pipe". I should be done with my engine by the end of the day, so I am just going to tighten those as much as I can for now. Anyone kind enough to share the torque for these bolts? And I got the replacement doughnut gasket (thanks for telling me earlier), but I thought it was weird that the rear exhaust didn't have one.

I had enough trouble taking out the bellhouse bolt.. it broke the joint I was using. I guess there is no easy way to get that one. I found out the flywheel is a lot easier when using a joint on a wrench instead of a open end wrench from the bottom...

[KHE]

Install the crossover pipe and leave the LH (front) exhaust manifold bolts loose. Tighten the crossover pipe to crankcase bolt to 22 ft-lbs. Tighten the crossover pipe to cylinder head bolt to 22 ft-lbs. Tighten LH (front) manifold to crossover pipe bolts to 22 ft-lbs. in an even manner as I described in an earlier post.

Install the y-pipe at the rear of the engine. The joint with the donut seal and smaller bolts has a torque spec of 22 ft-lbs. The joint without the seal and larger bolts has a torque spec. of 30 ft-lbs. The converter flange nuts have a torque spec of 18 ft-lbs (216 in-lbs).

[jrz]

Install the crossover pipe and leave the LH (front) exhaust manifold bolts loose. Tighten the crossover pipe to crankcase bolt to 22 ft-lbs. Tighten the crossover pipe to cylinder head bolt to 22 ft-lbs. Tighten LH (front) manifold to crossover pipe bolts to 22 ft-lbs. in an even manner as I described in an earlier post.

Install the y-pipe at the rear of the engine. The joint with the donut seal and smaller bolts has a torque spec of 22 ft-lbs. The joint without the seal and larger bolts has a torque spec. of 30 ft-lbs. The converter flange nuts have a torque spec of 18 ft-lbs (216 in-lbs).

Thanks for that. They seem like they're in there right. I got the car going, it started up in like 10 seconds, and it's been going well ever since... except that the serpentine belt snapped and the an oxygen sensor is bad. Also the firewall got damaged at one of the blower motor's bolt holes, so when I turned it on it started to spin then stripped out the bolt hole and it pulled out and broke itself against the inside walls. So, I'm not sure what to do about that... maybe try a plastic welder on the firewall, since it's a little beat up. Anyways, thanks for all the help man.