KenD Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Can anyone post the procedure for the R&R of the rad for my 94 STS. Passenger area side tank is cracking and i'm losing coolant at a rate of a couple of litres every 4 days or so. Not quite sure how hard it is to do, but I would like the option to tackle it myself if possible. Do I have quick connect fittings or do i need a line wrench to get the cooler hoses off. I priced it out at the rad shop and the guy wanted 2.4 hrs to do. He said it wasn't an easy job, but then again, when i look at it, how hard can disconnecting a few cooler lines be? thx! Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 I dont have it for a 94 but here it is for a 96 Radiator Replacement Removal Procedure Drain the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System . Disable the SIR. Refer to Disabling the SIR System in Accessories. Move the forwarding discriminating sensor out of the way. Refer to SIR Front End Discriminating Sensor Replacement in Accessories. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Remove the cooling fans. Refer to Electric Cooling Fan . Disconnect the radiator inlet hose from the radiator. Disconnect the radiator outlet hose from the radiator. Disconnect the engine oil cooler lines from the right radiator end tank. Disconnect the transmission oil cooler lines from the left radiator end tank. Refer to Cooler Lines, Fittings, Auxiliary Cooler Replacement in Automatic Transaxle. Remove the left and the right engine support torque struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical. Remove the upper radiator support screws. Remove the radiator from the vehicle. Lift the radiator up and out. Installation Procedure Install the radiator to the vehicle. Install the upper radiator support screws. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 6 N·m (53 lb in). Install the transmission oil cooler lines to the radiator. Refer to Cooler Lines, Fittings, Auxiliary Cooler Replacement in Automatic Transaxle. Tighten Tighten the transmission oil cooler line fittings to 27 N·m (20 lb ft). Connect the engine oil cooler lines to the radiator. Tighten Tighten the engine oil cooler lines to 18 N·m (13 lb ft). Install the left and the right engine support torque struts. Refer to Engine Mount Strut Replacement in Engine Mechanical. Connect the radiator outlet hose to the radiator. Secure the hose clamp. Connect the radiator inlet hose to the radiator. Secure the hose clamp. Install the cooling fans. Refer to Electric Cooling Fan . Install the air cleaner assembly. Install the forward discriminating sensor. Refer to SIR Front End Discriminating Sensor in Accessories. Enable the SIR. Refer to Enabling the SIR System in Accessories. Refill the coolant. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Ken, I removed the radiator on my '97 STS when I pulled the engine to repair the head gaskets almost 4 years ago. It was not that difficult - mine had quick disconnects for the oil cooler lines as I remember. The trans lines were regular fittings. The cooling fans need to be removed along with the radiator cover that goes across the top of the radiator. I think there is an airbag sensor there that needs to be removed. Pull the airbag fuse first. If one of the quick disconnect retainers breaks, new ones are available at any auto parts store. GM doesn't sell them separately - they only want to sell the entire fitting assembly... Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 the oil cooler line fitting is a push-in style. held by plastic clips. i did my radiator and a month later my oil line blew out. could have been a disaster but i was at a stoplight. i am still not sure if the line is missing a tiedown fitting. it comes out of the radiator and makes a 90degree turn so it has nothing retaining it if it decides to blow out. i have never had the chance to look at other cars to see if there is a clip or bracket to hold the line. the "clip" would be in the area of the access panel for removing the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 KenD! I removed my radiator when i replaced the alternator on my STS 1995 three years ago, but when when the sida plastic tank cracked last year i had to have it replaced by a mechanic! Its not so difficult,i guess your 1994 are the same as my 1995! 1. Drain the coolant and disconnect the 2 coolant hoses! 2. Remove the 2 electric fans(comes off very easy) Lift them directly up, two screws on the top. 3. Unscrew the oil 4 cooling lines (came off easily on my sts) 4. Unscrew the bolts on top that holds the radiator in place, lean the radiator towards the engine and lift it up! Roger Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 hey roger, i going to have to deduct points from your rating since you removed your radiator to take out the alternator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Lol...Joeb! Could not get it out in any other way...dropping it down was IMPOSSIBLE! It would not come out regardless how you turned it around! I dont think the alternator was bad afterall now...my guess was that the batteri needed replacement at that time! But i replaced the alternator with a rebuilt one and greased up all the battery cables so now it works fine! Put in a new battery last year! Roger Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 I can't add to that, I removed and had my alternator rebuilt when I dropped my carriage. Roger, do you have the wheel well inspection cover in the passenger wheel well?, that helped me get the compressor out, not sure if that helps with the alternator. I have heard that the alternator is a biach of a job from other members here Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 BBF! Yes, i have the wheel well cover, but it didnt help me at that time, because of the compressor. I dont understand why it have to be so very tight with space in the engine room, of course its a big engine, a lot bigger then my fathers VW 1,8 liters Passat:) There you can stand between the engine and the radiator! Why couldnt GM add another 10 inch between the front of the engine and the radiator so that you easily could replace alternator, exhaust manifold, crank positions sensors etc? I know its a matter of design, but anyway.... Now that i have removed the ac compressor permanent and put in the bypass pulley i believe that i can take out the alternator through the "hole" where the compressor was! Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 By the way....Simpsons and Family Guy are the funniest series ever...watch them every day Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted January 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 thanks for all the information! When i disconnect the cooler lines is there going to be a plethora of oil and tranny fluid spilling all over my nice clean garage floor??? The wife will have a a blowout if that happens. When i disconnect the cooler lines, is it just a matter of unscrewing the nut and then the line just pops off? Sorry for all the newbie questions, just don't want to have to get a tow truck over and then the wife standing over me saying "i told you so", lol. BTW, the alternator is a bear to get out of the bottom. It only comes out one way. Trust me I've done it 3 times already! 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 A little dripping is all...just unscrew and pull it out! There is no pressure at that time! Check the fluid level in the tranny after you are done and you will be fine! Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 BBF! Yes, i have the wheel well cover, but it didnt help me at that time, because of the compressor. I dont understand why it have to be so very tight with space in the engine room, of course its a big engine, a lot bigger then my fathers VW 1,8 liters Passat:) There you can stand between the engine and the radiator! Why couldnt GM add another 10 inch between the front of the engine and the radiator so that you easily could replace alternator, exhaust manifold, crank positions sensors etc? I know its a matter of design, but anyway.... Now that i have removed the ac compressor permanent and put in the bypass pulley i believe that i can take out the alternator through the "hole" where the compressor was! The Northstar "system" is terrific, but I wish some thought was given to actually working on it, why not? For instance, why not make it easy to drop the oil pan?, with consideration given to pan clearance in carriage design? That said, that 'system' fits the Eldorado, Seville and Deville bodies, so that must be a consideration. I would have thought that over time, the carriage and accessories could have been tweaked to facilitate R&R of major components and accessories Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 roger, there is a 4x6" access panel on the bottom of the radiator support that unbolts. right under the alternator. take it out and the alternator can drop straight down. i think the large rubber air dam barrier might cover it up. i took the gap filler out when i pulled my motor. real strange how it is tucked up and twisted into the lower bumper area. i had the top plastic filler piece off for awhile and you can see your feet when you stand real close to the car and look down. on a seville that is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 I agree BBF! Why couldnt be like my fathers first car, Chevrolet Standard 1935 that he bought in 1960-1962! But any modern car today is very little space in the engine compartment...I had a Volvo S40 some years ago with tha 1,6 liter engine and there was no more room there! I guess its not any harder to work on a Cadillac STS then any european car today except when changing the rear breaklines on the STS...that was a pain in the a..!! I received my front wheel hub today at work from Fedex ( I work at a major trucking company here in Sweden) so i am gonna put in on tomorrow! Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manowar77 Posted January 8, 2010 Report Share Posted January 8, 2010 Joeb! When i replaced my alternator these fuc.... ac lines were in the way from below, so i removed the radiator instead! But i will try your suggestion next time i replace the alternator! Roger Martinsen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john455cid Posted November 22, 2013 Report Share Posted November 22, 2013 Hey rodger I replaced my alternator by only removing the cooling fan. And a small plate on the fram at the bottom under the radiator , with 4 bolts if i remember right. take that off and the alternaton will come out with a little turnning around. Its tight but it will come out from the bottom. It took me about 45 minutes. The Dealer wanted to charge me 450.00 to do it . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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