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Air Conditioner Service


Poobah

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My air conditioner compressor leaks refrigerant at the seals. (This was confirmed by my mechanic who tested the system with dye.) The system works fine for a while but after two or three months it looses its charge and its performance begins to taper off.

A proper repair of the system will cost several hundred dollars and I'd like to put it off as long as possible. My mechanic charges $50 or $60 to service the system. He says it needs to be evacuated and then recharged (its been a while since I talked to him about this so I hope I remember the terminology correctly). If I have it serviced frequently, the cost will add up fairly quickly.

I'm wondering why can't I just buy cans of R134a at Pep Boys and top it off myself periodically? I wouldn't mind investing in a set of quality guages or whatever it takes to do it right.

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Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes.

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Because of the pressure involved my impression is that unless you plan to research the A/C system and understand how to service it in detail, you should not.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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You a lucky, I believe 134a refrigerant came out in 94. My 93 Eldo use R-12 referred to as liquid gold. About every 3 to 4 years the Eldo requires that a pound of R-12 be added. I'm fortunate that my brother-in-law has a 30 lbs tank, so it only costs me a case of beer.

On my other vehicles, 84 Corvete I converted it to 134a years ago. Every summer

I need to add a can of 134a. On my 97 LHS last year was the first time I had to add a can of 134a. One can runs about $6 and that's much cheaper than the 50 to 60 when you have to take it in to be serviced. When K-mart closed a store in the area, I stocked up and bought all the cans (12) they had for around $2.50 each.

I don't know if there is a stop leak equivalent for 134a. I probably wouldn't want to add it to my system anyway.

One can a year, I can live with that amount.

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My air conditioner compressor leaks refrigerant at the seals. (This was confirmed by my mechanic who tested the system with dye.) The system works fine for a while but after two or three months it looses its charge and its performance begins to taper off.

A proper repair of the system will cost several hundred dollars and I'd like to put it off as long as possible. My mechanic charges $50 or $60 to service the system. He says it needs to be evacuated and then recharged (its been a while since I talked to him about this so I hope I remember the terminology correctly). If I have it serviced frequently, the cost will add up fairly quickly.

I'm wondering why can't I just buy cans of R134a at Pep Boys and top it off myself periodically? I wouldn't mind investing in a set of quality guages or whatever it takes to do it right.

What seal is leaking? If it is a shaft seal or the o-rings at the back of the compressor where the refrigerant lines connect, it should be a straightforward repair. The shaft seal will require special tools to replace.

If the case seal is leaking, the compressor will need to be replaced.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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What seal is leaking?

As I say, it's been a while since my mechanic diagnosed the leak and I don't remember the details of what he said. I've recharged it a couple of times since then.

My mechanic did say it needed a new compressor along with the other components that should be replaced at the same time. He estimated close to $1000 to do a first class job. I asked at my local Cadillac salvage yard and they told me it would be around $400 to do a minimal repair using used parts.

The first is expensive and the second is questionable in terms of longevity. I would rather just add refrigerant periodically if that will keep it working and the cost doesn't add up to quickly.

I think topping it off every 3 months or so as Bbobynski suggested would be the best solution for me at this time.

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Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes.

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As long as the system was not dissassembled and still has at least a tiny bit of pressure in it there is absolutely no need to evacuate it each time... Just add some R134a occasionally and drive on.

Guru is correct, the sytem is designed to shut down when a loss of freon occurs. As long as you get a tiny phsst when you depress the charging valve, no air has gotten in, unless an unskilled operator charge it in.

Just be sure you get a can of R134 that adds a little oil too. About 2 ounces is enough.

The most common cause of compressor death is loss of oil with the slow leak. The system gets recharged maybe 4 or 5 times but nobody adds any oil. The oil leaking out is what you see when you see a leak. It MUST be replaced!

Jim in Phoenix

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What seal is leaking?

My mechanic did say it needed a new compressor along with the other components that should be replaced at the same time. He estimated close to $1000 to do a first class job. I asked at my local Cadillac salvage yard and they told me it would be around $400 to do a minimal repair using used parts.

You can probably get away with adding a can of refrigerant every three months but eventually, the leak will get worse and you will need to fix the problem.

Most shops don't want to replace a $15 shaft seal anymore - they want to sell a whole compressor, etc. for $1000......nine out of ten times, it's just the shaft seal that goes bad.

I wouldn't recommend used A/C parts. If the case seal is leaking on the compressor, a new one can be purchased from gmpartsdirect.com for $400.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Most shops don't want to replace a $15 shaft seal anymore - they want to sell a whole compressor, etc. for $1000......nine out of ten times, it's just the shaft seal that goes bad.

Assuming it is the shaft seal (and, as I remember, that is what my mechanic said the problem is) what is involved in replacing it? Most mechanics just want to R&R components instead of repairing them. Do you have any suggestions on where I might take the car to get the shaft seals replaced - my guess is it is not a simple do it yourself job.

Thanks,

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Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes.

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Try a shop that specializes in air conditioning work. It is not that bad of a job but it does require special tools - a seal remover/installer, seal protector tool as well as a clutch puller/installer.

The refrigerant must be recovered first as you will be opening up the system by replacing the shaft seal.

GM makes a double lip shaft seal - that is the one to get - you won't have to do the job again. I'd estimate one hour of shop time plus parts - probably in the $100 range.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thank you all who responded to my question.

Once again, a big potential expense turned into an easy bit of periodic service for now and, probably, a minor repair later.

That's the beauty of this board!

Thanks, again!

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Happiness is owning a Cadillac with no codes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Why do I find a complete lack of respondants telling us to PURGE the line of AIR, before charging the system!? If you don't, you will introduce air into the system, which will cause leaks, if you don't already have them! PLEASE! This is not Caddy specific, but AC specific! A properly charged system with no leaks, and no mechanical failures should NEVER require a recharge! It is almost always a component failure, an accident, or improper (or un-needed) recharge that causes these problems in the first place! Not to mention service performed on the car, where the mechanic "muscles" the lines, creating a leak! We are ALL overlooking the number one cause of AC failure, introduction of air, into the system!!! A car has a compressor, condensor, evaporator, and many lines connecting them all! Some systems have a MUFFLER on them! R-12 and R-134 will never "wear out" if all systems are functioning properly.

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STYES, could you be more specific, what do you mean by purging the line of air, do you mean on the guage set that you connect to the AC system? Sorry if this is a dumb question, Mike

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STYES, or do you mean to evacuate the system as the AC shops do? I like to have my AC evacuated once in a while, but you can not normally do that yourself without special equipment. Mike

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Mike,

If I am understanding him correctly I think he means to hook up the can and let a bit of R134a bleed out of the hose as you are tightening it down to the shreader valve. That way you are forcing the ambient air out of the hose and not into the sytem.

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