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Need to inspect and re-charge the AC system


maremrak

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Can anyone recommend a good place to check AC system? I got that message that refrigerant is very low, and I suspect that I have a leak in a system. I just need a good repair shop that will inspect the system and do the job right. I live in New York City, and work on Long Island. Thanks!

1960 Sedan De Ville (sold)

1970 Coupe De Ville (sold)

1987 Mazda RX-7 (sold)

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Honestly, I personally would go to the nearest Cadillac dealer to do it.

I know up here in Canada they are pretty reasonable for A/C repair.

Big Jay

Life is too short to grow up!

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I've had the same problem and honestly, I 've been able to refill and charge the system with one of those kits with the guage and 1 can of R134 without any issues.

Just clear the AC low refrigerant code by using the DTC or just diconnect the battery for a minute.

Put the AC on High and add refreigerent to the low pressure side following the kit instructions. I have someone put ther foot on the accelerator and hold the RPM at 1200 to 1500 while I do this.

Cost $20-$30 for the kit. $7 a can after that.

Fomerly from Long Island.

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Thanks Ken. I appreciate your comment. I am affraid that I have a leak in the system, that's why I need to check that first, but it sounds too complicated to do it myself.

1960 Sedan De Ville (sold)

1970 Coupe De Ville (sold)

1987 Mazda RX-7 (sold)

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I understand.

I also have a small leak and have gotten away with the refill processfor the past 3 years . Need to do this 2 -3X a year.

The repair has been quoted at around $1200. At $21 a year it would take me 57 years to justify the repair!

Ken

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Thanks Ken, it made me feel better already. I'll try to do it my self. I just need detailed instructions. Can you point me to any direction? Thanks again.

1960 Sedan De Ville (sold)

1970 Coupe De Ville (sold)

1987 Mazda RX-7 (sold)

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Thanks Ken, it made me feel better already. I'll try to do it my self. I just need detailed instructions. Can you point me to any direction? Thanks again.

Once you find/repair the leak, you MUST pull a vacuum on the system before charging it. If you curently have a partial charge, it would not take long to find the leak with an electronic leak detector.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Depends on how empty the system is. If it is just low the Very Low Refrigerant code will shut the compressor off. If it empty the leak is significant and it will have to be fixed.

I would disconnect the battery for a minute, reconnect it an then try the AC. If it stays on you are just low enough on freon to trigger the low pressure switch.

See if this works. If it stays on, we can go to the next step on using the refill kits.

Stop at any Pep Boys are Auto Zone or Advance Auto. If it is just low any of these places have someone who will assist with the refill kit. I like you was leary of these until someone at Advance auto showed me how easy it was.

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The system holds 2 lbs. of refrigerant. My '95 took only a few ounces after the REFRIGERANT VERY LOW message shut the compressor off. The can still felt full when I was done. If you hook up a 16 oz. can and the system sucks in most of its contents then just stop; you have a serious leak that needs professional attention.

It's best to have it fixed while there is still *some* pressure in the system. If it becomes "airblown" it will only cost more to fix in the Spring. You'll need a new accumulator at the least.

Just before attaching the refill can to your low side input open its valve to push any air out of the hose. Leave the valve open slightly while you hook it up. This will ensure you are emptying only refrigerant and not air into the system. Once firmly connected, open the valve maybe about a quarter of the way.

Turn the ignition ON, but do not start the engine yet. Clear the DTC code and then start the engine. Remember, the compressor will not start with the code set.

Likely the compressor will suck in enough refrigerant that it will continue to run without setting the DTC. Continue adding refrigerant until the gauge reads in the green and then shut the valve and disconnect.

If the DTC sets again before you can charge the system, open the valve on the refill can a little further and repeat the above.

If you successfully charge the system, but it fails again in a few hours or days, you have a serious leak that needs repair. If it lasts for months before it needs a top off, the leak is so small that only a top notch Pro could find it. Better (and cheaper) to recharge it yourself every 6 months or so as needed.

Some will tell you the gauge on the refill kit is a piece of junk. Those are folk who have a set of professional gauges they paid a lot for. The refill gauge is fine for your purposes.

Mine set the code only a day after an auto tech had been under my hood. I recharged it and it was still making ice cubes a year later. I thought bad things about that guy for a while. In the end, however, it was just a coincidence.

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Walts Radiator

Hallock Avenue

Port Jefferson, NY

(631) 928-1235

I use these guys to evacuate and recharge my AC all the time

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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