kens96 Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Turned the car on and pulled down the driveway and got the traction control light on. Drove for about 5 milese and it went out. Pulled the codes and found TC0073 current. Cleared the code while driving. I have have pulled the key and stopped and started the car 3 times. Driven about 15 miles and the code is gone. One time problem or should I start looking for something going bad? Its a 96 Eldo ETC. Tranmission pulled and rebuilt 15K ago. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 I don't see a C0073 code in my database. I do see # C0283 - Traction Switch Shorted to Ground which would be a wiring or connector problem. I would take this as a warning, and go over the wiring under the car to make sure that all the connectors are clean and plugged in. In case that's an old code that isn't an ongoing problem, the traction light can come on if a tire is low. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 DTC 73 isPROGRAM CONTROL MODULE AND ELECTRONIC BRAKE AND TRACTION CONTROL MODULE INTERFACE MALFUNCTION. Could be a one time problem , could be the begining of a much larger problem . Note, dtc 73 may also be set iF the ignition switch is improperly parked between off and run, or if the REAR CONSOLE BLOWER MOTOR CONTROL SLIDE LEVER, [ELDO AND SEVILLE ]ONLY IS LEFT IN THE on position prior to turning the ignition from RUN TO OFF. I F either of these conditions is set DTC 73, then replace the EBTCM, .IF it keeps coming on report back here. for more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Well the code came back on this morning after about 10 miles of driving. in stop and go traffic. I don't feel anything different in how the car drives or shifts. Cleared the code again. I can see on the DTC the data and inputs information. When it comes on again, what should I be looking for as in Data and Inputs information to narrow this down? Blower motor is off in the console (fan makes noise so it is never on) Also, Where is this EBTCM??? located? Pictures diagrams? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjayzway Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Well the code came back on this morning after about 10 miles of driving. in stop and go traffic. I don't feel anything different in how the car drives or shifts. Cleared the code again. I can see on the DTC the data and inputs information. When it comes on again, what should I be looking for as in Data and Inputs information to narrow this down? Blower motor is off in the console (fan makes noise so it is never on) Also, Where is this EBTCM??? located? Pictures diagrams? Thanks EBTCM is located right below the airbox. You can't miss it. There are brake lines going into it, and the plug is right on the top under the lower rad hose. There is a clip that you need to flip back, and then remove the flug. It is about 5" long and runs along the top. Be sure you it clicks in when you put it back. It has a clip on the back you need to make sure latches in when you reconnect it. It is so easy. Big Jay Life is too short to grow up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Thanks Big Jay, I looked for this and can 't seem to locate it from the top. Do I have to remove the airbox or do I get to it from under tyhe car or the wheel well? A picture or diagram would help if anyone has one out there. Since the last post I have checked the wheel sensor connections and they are all good. The Data shows that all are reading equally when driving straight. When the TC0073 code is active, what should I look for in the Data or Inputs on the DTC? Is there a setting that I should look for? By the way this forum is a great source of informaiton!!! Thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted October 15, 2006 Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 KEN, go back to my instruction on the rear motor , disregard the noise on high just put it their and follow instructions, if you follow the instruction with it on high and the CODE SETS AFTER FOLLOWING THE INSTRUCTION , THE CONTROLER UNIT IS BAD. THEIR IS A SERVICE TECH BULLETIN OUT ABOUT THESE CONTROLLERS FOR CERTAIN VIN NUMBER CARS, Defective after a certain amount of time, IF , it is bad the only alternative is having it rebuilt . or buying a new one. IT will start coming on more often, when it does it defaults the car to taking off in second gear and disengages the traction control. I have the been their done that T SHIRT on this problem.This simple test will show that their is a short inside the module. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 15, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2006 Thanks Franey, I tried setting the codes with the console blower motor on and it will not set. Tried a few times removing the key and repeating the steps and did not get it to set. I can turn the traction control on and off without any problems right now. Found the EBTCM. If it was any bigger it would have bitten me! That's a large connector going to it. Looks like I have to remove the airbox to get to it. Had the waterpump go about 18 months ago. Maybe it is just a dirty connection. Surfed a few more posts and found that my car is within 40 units after the software correction was made. Any chance I still got a bad unit? When I get the code again, is there anything else I should do? Any idea what a new EBTCM costs? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 THE unit is two parts, the part with the brake lines running into it is one unit the brains are connected to it by four corner bolts and one center bolt where the rubber gommet is. This is the part with the electrical connector. To remove the brain portion remove the driver wheel, and frount inner finder panel, remove lower cross panel. you can reach up in their with these removed. do not disconnect the bbrake lines, you are just going to remove the frount portion. disconnect the electrical connection, then remove the five bolts i mentioned . at this point the brains will disconnect from the pump potion. By removing this portion only you will not disturb the closed brake system. YOUR problem is in the brain portion. once it is removed clean the connections on the plug and plug in portion. I recommend electrical connection cleaner from RADIO SHACK, WORKS GREAT , and Q TIPS, SPRAYED WITH THE solution for the hard to get to portion. I hope cleaning it solves your problem, also let me know if any other TCS CODES ARE IN HISTORY OR CURRENT. THE COMPLETE UNIT WITH BOTH PARTS IS ABOUT 1600.00 RETAIL, THE BRAIN PORTION IS ABOUT 850.00 RETAIL. I PAID 575.00 FOR THE BRAIN PORTION , BUT NO MORE TC 73 CODES . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigjayzway Posted October 16, 2006 Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 HUH? Don't you just want to clean the electrical connectors? I just did this to a friends car 3 days ago, and it worked. I removed his airbox, unplugged the electrical connectors, cleaned them, and the problem was solved! Big Jay THE COMPLETE UNIT WITH BOTH PARTS IS ABOUT 1600.00 RETAIL, THE BRAIN PORTION IS ABOUT 850.00 RETAIL. I PAID 575.00 FOR THE BRAIN PORTION , BUT NO MORE TC 73 CODES . Removed the airbox, removed and cleaned the connectors $0.00..... 15 minutes........priceless, no more tc0073 codes! Big Jay Life is too short to grow up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 16, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2006 Well I made it to work today (30 miles under various road conditions) and did not get any TC0073 codes. I reached down to the harnesss last night and wiggled the connector and the harness the best I could without removing anything yet. Will go in during the weekend and remove the airbox to clean the connector. I'm guessing that if it were truely the module that was broken that I would set the code pretty quicky or is this just wishful thinking. Hoping for a $0.00 repair !!! Thanks for the feedback to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadian95sts Posted October 17, 2006 Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hey Jim, seems like we're having some of the same issues here. here is alink to my post : http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=11293 maybe between the two of us, we can make some headway, or feel each others pain Matt A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "darn...that was fun!" www.madd.ca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 17, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2006 Well, I'm not that lucky. Set the code TC0073 3x in the last few trips with the car. Called my local dealer and they were helpful. The Service Manager said that he has these cars come in and cleared the code problem by simpley cleaning the EBTCM contacts on the cable and where the module meets the valve body. Commented on this was a silly place to put and electronic component right under the water pump and windshield reservior. If cleaning doesnt work, I'm looking at $700+ for the new module and if it is the cable......it has to be rebuilt or found in a junkyard. It was only made for the 96 Eldo and it is discontinued! GREAT! UPDATE - Could not reset the code while driving home tonight. Ran through the data and found that the following registered a 0 value. 0 ISS TORQ TC D01 Once I was able to rest the code at at stop light I noted the zero value was variable between 6 and 60 as I drove and in park it read 16 ISS TORQ TC D01 Is this a clue ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadian95sts Posted October 18, 2006 Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 UPDATE - Could not reset the code while driving home tonight. Ran through the data and found that the following registered a 0 value. 0 ISS TORQ TC D01 Once I was able to rest the code at at stop light I noted the zero value was variable between 6 and 60 as I drove and in park it read 16 ISS TORQ TC D01 Is this a clue ??? I have the same thing with my wheel speed sensor, when i check the tcs data for the right front sensor, i only get a value of 1, while the others read the around the same as the vehicle speed. im going to try and clean the connector at the speed sensor tonight, and maybe unbolt the brain part of the ebtcm and clean that connection as well. One other thing for you ken, have you disconnected your battery for a few hours?? try that and see if the code reappears again, sometimes i cant clear the tcs codes, or they get cleared but the dummy lights are still on, and disconnecting the battery seems to work for a few days. Matt A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "darn...that was fun!" www.madd.ca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 18, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2006 I haven't disconnected the battery yet. Will do that this Friday when I clean the connectors and the module. The zero value is like a bit is stuck closed or a bad connection. Wish someone out there could tell me where the ISS TORQ value is coming from. Is it a sensor in the transmission? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Well I cleaned the contacts on the module and the cable and have the same results. I guess i need to buy a module. Still can't see how it seperates from the hydralic unit unless it is mounted on an aluminum base plate that is the same as the hydralulic box. Franey - you have obviously been there. Where did you get the part for $575. I've been quoted $730. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadian95sts Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 ken, heres the procedure for removing the ebtcm completely from the vehicle, it also tells you how to seperate the ebtem brain from the rest of the unit. Before servicing any electrical component, the ignition key must be in the OFF or LOCK position and all electrical loads must be OFF, unless instructed otherwise in these procedures. If a tool or equipment could easily come in contact with a live exposed electrical terminal, also disconnect the negative battery cable. Failure to follow these precautions may cause personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnect/Connect Procedure in Engine Electrical. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Refer to Air Cleaner Assembly Replacement in Engine Controls - 4.6L. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Important The EBTCM cannot be repaired. If faulty, it must be replaced as an assembly. Remove the three EBTCM/BPMV assembly bracket nuts. Remove the EBTCM electrical connector. Remove the front insulator and insulator mounting bolt. Remove the four EBTCM to BPMV bolts. Caution Do not pry the EBTCM from the BPMV as damage to the seal may result. Separate the EBTCM from the BPMV by gently pulling forward until separated. Be careful not to damage the seal. Installation Procedure Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Clean the seal and BPMV gasket surface with alcohol. Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "darn...that was fun!" www.madd.ca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 19, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Thanks for the instructions ! I'm off to get the part from the dealer tomorrow. Checked Parts Direct and by the time they special order and add shipping they are up to $660, For another $70 I have the part inhand tomorrow and in the car tomorrow night. How is your repair going? Looks like you are throwing more codes than me since i've only had the 1 consistantly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 I have bought enough parts from the dealer , that the parts guys take care of me, and my son and the dealers son grew up together. Small world. Once the four bolts are undone , take a rubber mallet and gently thunp the electrical module it will come off, DO NOT FORGET THE BOLT IN THE MIDDLE , WHERE THE RUBBER HOLD DOWN GROMMET IS . DO NOT TAKE THE PUMPEND OFF.I came from under neath , because the lower hose WILL get in your way from the top, and when you take the lower hose off, guess where it drains too, yes you are right , right on top of the electical connector. take aluminum foil and build tent over pump , it will just run right offf. good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadian95sts Posted October 19, 2006 Report Share Posted October 19, 2006 Thanks for the instructions ! I'm off to get the part from the dealer tomorrow. Checked Parts Direct and by the time they special order and add shipping they are up to $660, For another $70 I have the part inhand tomorrow and in the car tomorrow night. How is your repair going? Looks like you are throwing more codes than me since i've only had the 1 consistantly. mines not going so well at the moment, i had gotten rid of all the codes except the right front wheel speed sensor, but now they are all back. I did some checking and found out that my ebtcm is the one with all the problems, so im guessin that ill have to change it, in the mean time im still checking everything else out to see if there is another problem thats causing all these codes, just grasping at straws i guess, looking forward to heariing how your repair is going too, Matt A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "darn...that was fun!" www.madd.ca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 21, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Well here is the latest. First of all listen to Franey and remove the lower radiator hose. (I learned the hard way.) Second - those Torx screws do not come loose after being exposed to a waterpump failure and 10 years in the elements. Stripped 3. Ended up pulling the entire ABS module out of the car....replacing the EBTCM on the bench and re installing it. Stopped for the evening. Will add the coolant and bleed the brake system tomorrow and test out our efforts. Anybody have the bleed sequence and do you have to "Burp" the coolant system to get the air out ? Thanks for all the help to date! Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 Well here is the latest. First of all listen to Franey and remove the lower radiator hose. (I learned the hard way.) Second - those Torx screws do not come loose after being exposed to a waterpump failure and 10 years in the elements. Stripped 3. Ended up pulling the entire ABS module out of the car....replacing the EBTCM on the bench and re installing it. Stopped for the evening. Will add the coolant and bleed the brake system tomorrow and test out our efforts. Anybody have the bleed sequence and do you have to "Burp" the coolant system to get the air out ? Thanks for all the help to date! Ken The bleeding sequence recommended in my FSM is as follows: front short line - front long line- rear short line-rear long line. On my car the short lines on the driver side, probably the same applys to yours. To be honest, I do not know what difference the sequence makes. Be careful, do not screw up the bleeding screw. It is not that difficult. I'have done that once. LOL The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted October 21, 2006 Report Share Posted October 21, 2006 TO bleed system fill with proper coolant and tablets. bring car up to 3500 to 4000 RPM and hold it several times this should bleed system out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kens96 Posted October 22, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2006 The job is all done. Reinstalled the ABS module and flushed and bled all 4 corners. Flushed the coolant system while it was apart and added new Dexcool with 3 sealant tabs. Replaced the air filter. Washed and waxed. Drove around today and have yet to pull any codes or warning lights. Thanks for the advice and information!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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