Smokin under the hood!

[bigjayzway]

Well I got the oil changed a couple a days ago at the Delta Sonic.

They tell me I got an oil leak from the back of my engine.

I asked from where, and the guy says he can't quite see where.

He does say it is pretty bad.

I don't notice any leaks in the driveway, but!

I did a few WOT's and man she was smokin from under the hood!

Anyone got any ideas where it could be comin from?

I looked quickly, but could not see where.

It smokes a lot when I give her sh*t, but not when I drive her easy?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Big Jay

[chazglenn3]

If it is anything at all like my car, then the case halves are leaking onto the exhaust crossover causing the smoke. Mine is bad enough to make it to the ground, though.

Charles

[Poobah]

A lot of cars, Cadillacs included, leak small amounts of oil. When it drips onto the hot exhaust pipes or manifold, it burns off causing a little smoke and burned oil smell under the hood. Unless you're looking for a way to get rid of a couple thousand surplus dollars, I wouldn't worry about it unless it's a real gusher. Your local auto parts store sells all kinds of oil leak remedies that you can add to your oil. They usually don't work but I figure it's worth gambling a few bucks on the chance they do.

[jackc]

It would be good to clarify what they mean by "the back of the engine".

In studying my oil leaks, I found that almost any leak from the front (radiator) side of the engine will migrate toward the brace between the engine and the trans (back?), which is right over the exhaust cross-over. Its due to blow-back and its flow against the casting-ridge that runs across the bottom of the pan.

If you get really curious, try some dye in the oil. With a black light, you can see exactly where the leaks are coming from.

[BodybyFisher]

I was thinking the exact same thing and decided not to post before. The back of the engine near the fire wall? or facing the LF fender? To me the back of the engine faces the DRIVER SIDE FENDER.. Which is it..because it makes a difference. The left side has the cooler lines and connections and they could be a source of leaks there was even a TSB on how to make the cooler line connection less leak prone.. As jack notes the only real way to see a leak is to use dye.. That rough driving you are doing could also cause the CAM cover to leak down.

[bigjayzway]

Sorry. The "back" to them was the side closes to the firewall.

The cooler lines were removed over a year ago on this car Mike. There is no leak there, cause that is the first place I always check.

We talked about the cooler lines way back, when I first got the car.

I have never thought about using the "mechanic in a can" cause I never believed any of them ever worked.

Big Jay

[BodybyFisher]

Are you using synthetic? If not what viscosity? If you do not see it on the ground, I would not worry about it... These engines leak as you know.. When you get under the car, its always wet.. Its ruining my driveway... Gotta take the good with the bad, but I would take a look and see if its fixable..

[MAC]

I think it's the oil pan. If you see oil glaze on the pan going back to the catalytic converter then it's likely the pan. Check the driver's side exhaust pipe right under the heat shield near the transaxle for a brown/black mark. I have the same problem but it is probably worse as even at idle I can smell burning oil. I’m about to fix the problem—finally. Chances are if it’s the oil pan the leak will probably get worse over the next few months.

[chazglenn3]

Mike;

As you know, I had a HUGE oil slick in my driveway from my case half leak. Found a product at my local Ace Hardware called "Pour-n-Restore". The BEST driveway cleaner I have ever used!! You pour in on the stain, spread it thin with a v-notched trowel, let it dry 5-8 hours, then sweep up the powder. Unbelievable!! Check it out:

http://www.pour-n-restore.com/index.htm

Charles

[BodybyFisher]

I think it's the oil pan. If you see oil glaze on the pan going back to the catalytic converter then it's likely the pan. Check the driver's side exhaust pipe right under the heat shield near the transaxle for a brown/black mark. I have the same problem but it is probably worse as even at idle I can smell burning oil. I’m about to fix the problem—finally. Chances are if it’s the oil pan the leak will probably get worse over the next few months.

Can the oil pan be dropped on these cars?

[bigjayzway]

Are you using synthetic? If not what viscosity? If you do not see it on the ground, I would not worry about it... These engines leak as you know.. When you get under the car, its always wet.. Its ruining my driveway... Gotta take the good with the bad, but I would take a look and see if its fixable..

Mike.

I am using Quaker State 10W30 non synthetic.

Big Jay

[BodybyFisher]

Mike;

As you know, I had a HUGE oil slick in my driveway from my case half leak. Found a product at my local Ace Hardware called "Pour-n-Restore". The BEST driveway cleaner I have ever used!! You pour in on the stain, spread it thin with a v-notched trowel, let it dry 5-8 hours, then sweep up the powder. Unbelievable!! Check it out:

http://www.pour-n-restore.com/index.htm

Charles

Thanks Charles, I'll check that out! Mike

[bigjayzway]

I think it's the oil pan. If you see oil glaze on the pan going back to the catalytic converter then it's likely the pan. Check the driver's side exhaust pipe right under the heat shield near the transaxle for a brown/black mark. I have the same problem but it is probably worse as even at idle I can smell burning oil. I’m about to fix the problem—finally. Chances are if it’s the oil pan the leak will probably get worse over the next few months.

Can the oil pan be dropped on these cars?

Oil Pan Replacement

Removal Procedure

Remove the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transmission.

Drain the engine oil.

Remove the exhaust crossover pipe. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Replacement .

Remove thirteen oil pan bolts.

Remove the oil pan. The gasket is reusable unless damaged. Do not remove the gasket from the oil pan groove unless replacement is required.

Installation Procedure

Install the new oil pan seal if required by starting the seal into the pan groove and working the seal into the groove in both directions. Once the seal is exposed to the oil it will expand and no longer stay in the groove without wrinkles. If this condition exists, replace it with a new seal.

Position the oil pan to the crankcase.

Notice

Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems.

Install thirteen oil pan bolts. Tighten

Tighten the bolts to 10 N·m (89 lb in) in sequence shown.

Instal the exhaust crossover. Refer to Exhaust Crossover Replacement .

Install the transmission. Refer to Transmission Replacement in Automatic Transmission.

Refill the engine oil.

Big Jay

[bigjayzway]

Can I change the oil to 10/40, or is that a bad thing?

I know in the past I went as high as 20/50 in some of the other cars I have owned for oil leaks?

Big Jay

[BodybyFisher]

Can I change the oil to 10/40, or is that a bad thing?

I know in the past I went as high as 20/50 in some of the other cars I have owned for oil leaks?

Big Jay

Jay, I had good results by tightening the pan bolts (to spec) and using one of the high mileage 10W30 oils... Try that and see what happens.. Have you determined where the leak is coming from? Has it hit the ground yet?

As you may or may not know, I am dropping my carriage in the next 30 days to replace a sensor in my tranny, I will be looking carefully to find out where I am leaking from. I will probably buy and install some dye and see if I can locate my oil leak with a black light... Will advise how that works out..

[MAC]

The specs call for tightening the bolts to 10 N•m (89 lb in) in sequence. Am I reading it right? Wouldn’t 89 lb in strip the bolts. Isn’t that setting about as tight as wheel lug nuts?

[JimD]

Not quite.

Eighty nine lb in = 7.4 lb ft. Wheel lug nuts are 100 lb ft, or 1,200 lb in.

[BodybyFisher]

I recently made that mistake. I reinstalled an intake on a pontiac and it was 85 in lbs..... Its important to pay attention to the (in) part... ... I mistook it for ft. lbs... (insert big :DUH: here).... I only realized I was wrong when I snapped a bolt and crushed the intake gasket....

This is just another thing that we need to RELEARN.... On the old 429, 500 CU IN Caddys.... NOTHING was inch pounds Pay attention to the torque specs its easy to make a mistake, I DID IT

[Ranger]

This is just another thing that we need to RELEARN.... On the old 429, 500 CU IN Caddys.... NOTHING was inch pounds

Yeah, up until recently, I never even had an inch/pound torque wrench.

[bigjayzway]

Well, My buddy Matt and I found the leak tonight, I think.

We seen oil coming out from the rear valve cover.

I will try to tighten it tomorrow, and see what happens?

I am glad that is where it is, if it is the main source.

It's a lot easier to replace a valve cover gasket than anything else I guess.

Big Jay