bschelle Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 After parking and putting in Park and then revving the engine, the trans clunks and lunges. It doesn't do it again until I put it in gear and then back to Park. Could it be the converter or something related? 103,000 on the clock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Not sure why you are doing that, but sounds similar to the discussion here: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=2137 Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 It could be a worn sprag in the trans. If so, it is not advisable to rev the engine in park. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Mine did the same thing, in a 91 Seville, and when my tranny went spontaneously it was the SPRAG as Kevin says. When I had it rebuilt and they replaced the sprag and all associated parts no more reving bang/rap.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschelle Posted November 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 Thanks for the responses. The link was about a different type of clunk. Mine is exactly as the others stated. I don't make a habit of reving it in Park, but sometimes you just have to. This is not a 3000 RPM rev up but just a 1500 or so just to get things moving. It happened yesterday after changing the thermostat and I was just getting the coolant circulating. Is this a warning sign that the trans is going to puke soon and should I have it looked at soon? Or just let it ride until that fateful moment when the trans does goes south? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted November 29, 2004 Report Share Posted November 29, 2004 I just finished rebuilding a tranny which died due to the sprag failing. The owner chose to drive it until it would no longer move. It ended up ruining lots of hard parts and I'm sure the car had to have an expensive tow because all the clutches were completely burned. Good luck, you may not even be able to make it to the tranny shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschelle Posted November 30, 2004 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Hey Ed, What kind of a repair bill is it to go through a tranny? I would rather fix it now then wait until it is tatally trashed! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Are you asking how much it would cost you to go through the tranny or have it done by someone? I priced it out down here in Southern California before I did mine myself and the prices were anywhere from $1,300 - $3000. A well respected transmission shop that I've had work done before at wanted $1800-$2200 and this is where I would have had it done. This is what it costed me to do my own tranny. Rebuild kit (clutches & steels) $80 Sprag $25 Misc hard parts that were burned $100 Transgo Shift kit $25 (really worth it) Harbor freight misc. tools $50 Transmission Service manual - $25 Transmission Oil - $8 Torque converter would have costed $75 but I chose not to replace mine since it was almost new. It would probably cost you or the shop around $200 for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Thanks for the responses. The link was about a different type of clunk. Mine is exactly as the others stated. I don't make a habit of reving it in Park, but sometimes you just have to. This is not a 3000 RPM rev up but just a 1500 or so just to get things moving. It happened yesterday after changing the thermostat and I was just getting the coolant circulating. Is this a warning sign that the trans is going to puke soon and should I have it looked at soon? Or just let it ride until that fateful moment when the trans does goes south? Mine (the sprag) did it at 1500 to 1800 rpm and it could jar the car forward ever so slightly, actually moving the car at times. It sounds serious like something might fly through the bellhousing and rip our head off... lol.. true however. Its a sickening noise that does not happen in drive. The tranny place immediately knew what it was... I thought it was the parking pawl catching ... Good Luck. Mine went at 120,000 miles but I would be careful with long trips knowing what I know now... Ed is right, the sprag destroyed lots of other stuff including the clutches that I burned up driving it home, AND to make matters worse, the metal filings from the nuked parts go all over the tranny. Make no mistake about it when it goes you know it immediately with a bang, it happened to me at 60 mph and i limped off the highway. In the beginning when it happened it would shift and I could move without OD, after about 10 miles, it was first gear only when I finally got it to the shop....as the cluches deflubiated It cost $1,800 to rebuild, but be careful there are a lot of a-holes out there. If you do a search on the old archives you will see my experience. My advice would be to go to your local Cadillac dealer and see who does their work and ask if they are happy with them TOTALLY! That is what I did and I used their shop and they STILL F'd my car up. It was not the TRANNY rebuild job, that was fine. The problem was the R&R they were sloppy and messed up so many other things...... Personally I would take it from the shop and drive it DIRECTLY to the Cadillac dealer for THEM to look it over for proper installation. OK OK I will go into it, here is a snopsis of my experience: 1) they did not replace the O-rings on the oil cooler lines and I was leaking OIL like mad. I was smelling oil burning but assumed that it was burning off the tranny from the work. Two days later the oil light came on, 2) The splash shield on the LF wheel was smashed against the ROTOR and needed to be pulled out 3) A thick electrical conduit was misrouted around sharp edges and under much tension 4) They left a bell housing bolt OUT 5) 9 months later I got a HARD short that blew out the fusible link for the horn, cooling fans and AC clutch.... I believe that there was a wire pinched somewhere but gave up and junked it I blame the R&R of the transmission for the cars ultimate demise. Be Careful ask lots of questions... You will see someone else here recently that is having problems after a rebuild (adlak I think) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 Acklac7 is having difficulty, check his recent posts. I feel his pain! He was also very careful and look at the problems he has had. So be careful... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 It cost $1,800 to rebuild, but be careful there are a lot of a-holes out there. All they have to do is fix the tranny so that it goes 10K miles / 1year. And most people are likely to sell the car before driving it another 100K miles anyways. This is what led to the demise of the Allante that I bought. The previous owner put a bunch of money into the transmission only to have it go out past the warranty. Rather than spending more money, he sold it to me cheap. When I was tearing the transmission apart, I found 3 major problems (wires hooked up incorrectly, gasket not installed correctly, a missing part ). They also didn't bother to correct any play (final drive and whole assembly) that was out of spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted November 30, 2004 Report Share Posted November 30, 2004 I know what you mean, they really don't care. That is why I try to do my own work all the time. A-holes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschelle Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 WOW!! I am goint to start the repair process carefully and make sure I get a tech who knows what he is doing. Has anybody checked into the price and availabilty of a rebuilt trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 Don't know how long you plan on driving the car but if you want to go for the best, you might want to check out these guys. Click here!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschelle Posted December 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I got a price of $750 exchange for a remanufactured trans w/24 mo-24,000 mi warranty from Roadmaster Transmission Service. How much time does it take to R&R the tranny? I have a buddy that is a ASE Tech and I ams cosidering just buying the reman and have him R&R it. Any ideas on the time involved? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 I got a price of $750 exchange for a remanufactured trans w/24 mo-24,000 mi warranty from Roadmaster Transmission Service. How much time does it take to R&R the tranny? I have a buddy that is a ASE Tech and I ams cosidering just buying the reman and have him R&R it. Any ideas on the time involved? A hard to believe great price!, does that include a new convertor? I would install a new convertor if its not included, I think it was about $200 or so. The convertor holds a lot of old fluid and can hold debris, why chance any problems. I believe that you can get an engine support and remove the tranny from the bottom, I think that is what they did on mine. I recall seeing the car sitting there with the tranny out and the engine support fixture (i visited it to see how it was going). Look over the flywheel when you have the tranny out for cracking. Replace the O-Rings in the oil cooler lines. Pay attention to details, such as wire routing, and I think you will be way ahead of the game. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 Took me about a day to remove the tranny and about the same time to reinstall it with the car sitting up on jack stands. Like my engine support fixture? Another Picture.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted December 1, 2004 Report Share Posted December 1, 2004 Most shops charge about $300 to remove and reinstall this transmission. Do you have the option of installing a Transgo shift correction package? Makes the tranny a much nicer shifting unit, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Took me about a day to remove the tranny and about the same time to reinstall it with the car sitting up on jack stands. Like my engine support fixture? Another Picture.. Hmmm, is that a Snap-On engine support? Ahh I man after my own heart, did you use through bolts to lift the engine? I especially like the tranny wheel barrow! I rebuilt my trannys making many of my own tools also, the drill press, all threads, and band saw got a lot of use! I couldnt see buying so many single use tools.. Did you use a tranny jack or a floor jack to let it down? Funny story, my Dad had had a heart attack and had some type of big Chrysler with the Torque Flight in it that needed to be swapped. I was shocked to hear that he dropped the tranny out ON HIS CHEST to get it out....ahh that generation was tough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 It's better than a Snap-On engine support. I used threaded rod (bent like a J at the end of it to hook into the engine hooks) to hold up the engine. To be honest, I didn't use any jack to let it down. See those straps, that's what I used to lower it down. But I did use a floor jack along with the straps to get the tranny back in. It worked really good. No special tools were used here. I did have to buy some Harbor Freight torx bits, a feeler gauge and a torque wrench. To lower the whole clutch assembly down into the case, I cobbled together my own homemade tool. I'm not a muscle man so it took everything I had to lift that tranny into that wheel borrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 I was going to ask if it was heavy, I once hurt my back picking up a Ford C4 tranny.. very awkward to move around with the uneven weight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Hall Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 Yes, the transmission was very heavy. I looked up the weight of this tranny and its 204 lbs filled. Subtract the torque converter 20 lbs and the fluid 12 lbs and that comes out to about 170 lbs. Surprising enough, these tranny's are about 50 lbs heavier than a 4L60E that's used in all the newer than 1982 Chevy 1/2 ton pickups and suburbans. This is probably due to the fact that the FWD transmission has the final drive and chain packaged inside of it. I looked up the weight of the C4 dry and it was 110 lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted December 2, 2004 Report Share Posted December 2, 2004 110 pounds huh, no wonder i was trying to lift it over my head as the car was on a lift, ouch.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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