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Orifice Tube


rek

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1996 Eldorado Sport Coupe.

Around June I was cruising in our Metro-Parkway. Came to a stop, and experienced my first Stall condition. It started back up just fine. A/C was nice and cool. Car ran fine.

A code check revealed a Stall was detected. That's it, just one code. Everything else checked OK.

A couple of weeks ago, on a 1/2 hour drive, 80F or so, SCREEEECH. Funny smell......No A/C.

The A/C Clutch is blown apart. The Compressor won't turn.

The O-Tube has some black Teflon-like particles on TWO of the ten small screen segments.

NO metal particles found. The eight other screen segments are clean.

Is a NEW Condenser needed?

rek

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i just replaced my compressor. slow failure though and i do have some small bits in the o-tube. since your compressor seized due to bearing failure or something along those lines i would consider a new condenser. are you doing it or paying someone else to do it? might be more cost effective to do it all at once. if you have to evac/recharge again to change out the condenser in a week/month than you could be money ahead.

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A new compressor, condenser, o-tube and a system flush are in order to be on the safe side. The risk you run if you don't change out the condenser is trash from the old compressor plugging up the new o-tube and/or trashing the new compressor. Do not flush the accumulator or any mufflers in the lines.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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OK then, I'll take the cost effective "Safe Side"....New GM compressor, condenser, drier, o-tube,o-rings and a system flush. PLUS, oil filter adapter o-rings, o-pressure switch, serp belt tensioner, idler pully, gatorback belt, oil/filter change, anti freeze change...........

I CAN turn a 3 hour job into much much more.............Thanks.

rek

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Here is what my orifice tube looked like

Orifice_Tube_Close_up.jpg

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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BBF, Mine doesn't look as bad........only the top near the o-ring, has the black teflon like crud.

It may be "Black Death"

“Black Death” is phenomenon that seems to have been addressed by the Blue Oval manufacturer and may not be such a prevalent problem for the future as it has been in the past. Many theories surround the root cause of this problem. The overheating and “death” of a compressor, burning the oils in the system, combined with “plastic” or “Teflon” materials will form a hard, carbonized, and sometimes impossible to remove buildup primarily in the condenser. Warning: This “death” does occur in other makes and models apparently not as frequently as to be named. Most flushes available will not breakdown this carbonized buildup and overall flushing has had very limited success in resolving this problem. A quick shot of air can be used to see if the condenser is solidly blocked. If it is, you should replace the condenser."

I'll give it a quick shot of air and see what goes on........But again, a new condenser would be best. It's only money......................

rek

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My compressor sounded like an old fashion egg beater when I bought it. With Kevin's help, I replaced the compressor, orifice tube, condenser, accumulator and a couple of sensors. Flushing the system was the hardest part. Knock on wood, it has run good for about 2 years.. I should have disassembled the compressor to see how it looked.

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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  • 1 month later...

I FINALLY have all the parts for my A/C R&R. The DELCO compressor came in today... I ordered it, as well as the other parts, on 7/29, from my local dealer. I figured it might take some time. An Internet

GM parts supplier had "Not a Stock Item...Allow 24 Business Days" next to the compressor listing.

For the Record, The compressor instructions state: Must Add Oil. For vehicles with R-134a A/C systems, use synthetic (PAG) Oil, P/N 12345923 or AC Delco P/N 15-118. Use the Delco P/N to avoid dealer confusion.......

1996 Eldorado A/C Parts List:

NEW Delco Compressor 89016935

Accumulator 88968517

Orifice tube 52473660

Condenser 52469683

Serp-Belt Tensioner 12557838

Serp-Belt Tensioner Bolt 11516109 (longer than original, must use with "New" design Tensioner)

Idler Pulley 12555244

O-Rings (Seals)

O-Tube/Condenser (6 required) 52456067

Accumulator/Evaporater (6 required) 52456069

Oil Filter Adapter (2 required) 3543719

**************

Oil Pressure Switch (on Filter Adapter) 12571721

PAG Oil Delco 15-118

rek

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Serp-Belt Tensioner 12557838

Serp-Belt Tensioner Bolt 11516109 (longer than original, must use with "New" design Tensioner)

Do you have the ACDelco part numbers for those? I was going to order a tensioner for my 95 and it looks like you have the same one, years are listed as 1993 - 2003. I didn't know you needed a longer bolt though.

WARNING: I'm a total car newbie, don't be surprised if I ask a stupid question! Just trying to learn.

Cheers!

5% discount code at RockAuto.com - click here for your discount!

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The P/N I posted are GM P/N for ACDelco parts.

I found the ACDelco P/N for the Tensioner at AC Delco, by clicking on the Competitive Cross

Reference. The P/N is 38153. I tried the GM bolt P/N 11516109, and nothing came up.

The reason I advised to use the Delco P/N for the PAG OIL , is because GM 12345923 didn't

show up at the dealer........

rek

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Every new part has been installed. I took it to a guy I know for the evac/charge. I was impressed with his robinair(sp) evac/charge unit. Hook up the low/high hoses, set the vac time (50 minutes), set for 2 lbs. 134A........let her rip. It had a digital timer. After 5 minutes, he put in on pause, to see if it held a vacuum. It held just fine. After the vac was done, flip a switch to add the 134a. At .75 lb. he said start it up, select MAX COLD. The rest of the fill was fast. Center vent temp of 48 degrees, on a 78 degree day. I reached inside the OPEN window, and shut it off.

I took extra measures this time on the flush detail. (Black Death Horror Stories).

Each line recieved a 30 minute soak/shake episode. I used vacuum port stoppers (looks like an eye-dropper bulb) to plug one end. I filled the line with NON-Chlorinated Brake/Clean, plugged the other end, and gave it some shakes. Then I drained it into a clear jug. I blasted some more BC into the line...this time I caught the fluid in a white container. I poured this fluid into a paper filter lined funnel, into another jug. Changed the filter paper and repeated, untill the filter paper caught NO dirt, as viewed with a 5X OptiVISOR. Compressed air through the line until dry.

Thanks to KHE, BBF, and others for all the info (Past Posts).

rek

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