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I took my car to a mechanic to see why it wasnt starting. I had replaced the fuel pump and filter but never replaced the fuel pump relay with a new one. (big mistake) Anyways I take it to them and asked him how much they'll charge me to look at the wiring at the fuel pump and all that to see why it wasnt starting, he had told me 65 - 70$ he never told me by the hour so the next day (friday) they get it running it ended up being the relay and fuel pressure regulator... so they replaced that when I went to pick it up it all came out to 245$ the parts came out to 75$ and the labor was 165 around there. He said it took them 2hrs and 50 min to check the wiring and all which I dont think they did. Come saturday I took it and washed my car when I get home, a few min. later I try to leave again and it doesn't start. did I get way over charged? And how can you tell if they put a new FPR to me it looked like the original old one I had on before.. What can I do..

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I would call them back and complain. I am sure they will suggest you bring it back and charge you more labor to look at it. Did you use a GM Dealer or a mom & pop shop? Did they use OEM parts? I had bad luck with an aftermarket FPR. I always ask for the old parts back or have them show them to me. Have you checked the diagnostic codes? You can quickly check the FPR by pulling the vacuum hose and see if gas is coming out it when you turn the key on to pressurize the system. If there is gas the FPR is bad. I would also switch the fuel pump relays, check the other relay numbers and switch the ones with the same numbers.

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

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Something didnt go over right, but the shopp where it was fixed at should make it right ! I do know from experinces with customers cars sometimes things are fixed when the job is done then the car sits until they come get it and we discover its a two part issue. Above all the need to make it right !

Michael Southward

Bloomington,Indiana

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The only problem I have is the labor charge I think I was overcharged.. I was charged 165$ when at first he told me 65$ for the labor for him to figure out why my car wasn't starting.(checking all the fuel pump related wires and the fuses) Which he said took him 2hrs and 50min. Does that sound right?

someone also told me that if you put a little gas where the TB is and if it starts but cuts off then it doesn't have to do with anything electrical. If so thats probly all he did then tried a new relay which took him less than 10min. but I was charged for almost 3 hrs of labor

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Find the relays, check the number on the other ones that match and switch them. On my 94 almost all the relays are the same.

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Your other labor charges came into play when he changed the FPR and Relay. Altogether you got charged about $55 per hour which is not bad considering a lot of shops charge $75 and up.

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Find the relays, check the number on the other ones that match and switch them. On my 94 almost all the relays are the same.

I had asked the mechanic how to check these relays I thought just switching them to would work but he told me that each relay has a different resistence I think he said. That the fuel pump requires alot of power therefore switching relays wouldnt work.

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Find the relays, check the number on the other ones that match and switch them. On my 94 almost all the relays are the same.

I had asked the mechanic how to check these relays I thought just switching them to would work but he told me that each relay has a different resistence I think he said. That the fuel pump requires alot of power therefore switching relays wouldnt work.

If the relay numbers are the same it has the same resistance.

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Find the relays, check the number on the other ones that match and switch them. On my 94 almost all the relays are the same.

I had asked the mechanic how to check these relays I thought just switching them to would work but he told me that each relay has a different resistence I think he said. That the fuel pump requires alot of power therefore switching relays wouldnt work.

If the relay numbers are the same it has the same resistance.

I had tried switching relays before I even took it to the shop and it wouldn't work

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No, you weren't overcharged; this is about right for that sort of problem.

No, it didn't take him 2hrs 50mins to localize the problem. They might either tell you the truth, i.e. they charge $150 per hour, or they can tell you they charge $75 per hour and double the number of hours they actually spent on your vehicle. That's the way it's done.

Let's get practical now. Your personal skills come into play here. Do you "sense" the guy is competent/skilled? Maybe even honest?

This is important! You can stick with him and trust he'll see the problem through to its completion and, hopefully, be somewhat merciful where the final bill is concerned . . . .

Or, you can start all over again somewhere else and begin paying from the beginning. Do you have a "somewhere else?"

If you sense this guy can get the job done responsibly, I'd say stick with him. If you have to "walk," be prepared to start over with a new wallet.

Hope it works out.

Regards,

Warren

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I understand that should the fuel pump relay fail, the oil sending unit gets promoted to a sort of manual relay (explains the 2 extra wires attached to the oil sending unit). I just don't know if that backup is only to keep the car running, I don't know if it will let the car start in that condition.

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes...the fuel pump relay is a new one they put on Is there a possibility it could be burnt out too?

I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Absolutely! If he really wants to do right by you, he will reimburse you 100% of the total costs of any unnecessary parts and labor, and go from there. Anything above that is on you. If a mechanic says to a customer such and such is the problem, and it turns out to be something else, then the mechanic needs to step up and be willing to do the job right for free. It sounds like this mechanic is willing to make the effort?

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I took my car back today they said it's a short somewhere from the fuse box to somewhere by the glove box.

Do ya'll think I should complain about being charged for almost 3 hrs of labor which probly only took him 1hr. all he did the first time was check the wires by the fuse box up front and the wire by the tank, then changed out a relay and FPR(fuel pressure regulator) and hooked up the fuel pressure gauge! He said it took him an hour just to put on the FPR and to do the pressure gauge...

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I've checked the codes but they're all the same as before and all history codes ... I called them and told them what happened he said to bring it in and if has to do with something related to the same problem I had they'll do it for free and if it has to do with something else I'll be charged

Absolutely! If he really wants to do right by you, he will reimburse you 100% of the total costs of any unnecessary parts and labor, and go from there. Anything above that is on you. If a mechanic says to a customer such and such is the problem, and it turns out to be something else, then the mechanic needs to step up and be willing to do the job right for free. It sounds like this mechanic is willing to make the effort?

Absolutely?!? Probably not. He'll likely say you needed that stuff anyway. After all, he has a family to feed and you won't likely see a Yugo in his driveway. :D

However, it's a good sign he's offered to make things right. I'd proceed, but cautiously. Remember, trust but verify.

Good luck.

Regards,

Warren

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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I am not sure what wire you are talking about. Usually you can just repair the short. Splice a new piece of wire in or if it is chaffed, just tape it and secure it so it doesn't chaffe anymore. If the connector is bad, you'll probably have to get that from the dealer or a junk yard.

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I understand that should the fuel pump relay fail, the oil sending unit gets promoted to a sort of manual relay (explains the 2 extra wires attached to the oil sending unit). I just don't know if that backup is only to keep the car running, I don't know if it will let the car start in that condition.

Yup, it will not only run the engine, but it will start it as well. The only downside will be an extended cranking period since the switch won't close until oil pressure has been established.

From my FSM: http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/WBuc...elPumpRelay.jpg

Regards,

Warren

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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