Cassie Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Hello, Back again...... You all have been such a great help to me and I am learning as I go..... I have replaced the ISC I found it very difficult to get to!! I have small hands and it was hard for me so I don't know how you guys do it!! Any way was not sure how to set the screw in the ISC counted the threads on the old one to see if I could figure it that way... but didn't work as there was some play in the old one... so just tried to set it where I thought. In any case I have readjusted it by shortening the length of the screw a few times??? not sure if that is how you do it or not.... I am still having a idle problem. When I stop the idle is OK but as soon as I give it a little gas I can take my foot off the gas pedal and it will continue to idle up to 30 MPH.... It also idled too high upon start up but quickly adjusted itself. At this rate I will wear out my brakes and then have another job!! Should I continue to shorten the screw on the isc to adjust...even though the idle seems to sound fine when just sitting there.... will that be my answer or do I need to clean the TB...( it looked pretty clean) . I did have the battery disconnected while working on it if that makes a difference... I am thinking there is something I don't know or am over looking...Like I said I am learning as I go and so far those who have answered me in the past have been my biggest teachers... thanks!! Hope someone out there can send me in the right direction again. Cassy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Press the ISC plunger in with your thumb. When it retracts all the way in, unplug it. The engine idle should drop to about 450 RPM and may even die. Now adjust the plunger to a .030 gap between it and the throttle lever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted April 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Press the ISC plunger in with your thumb. When it retracts all the way in, unplug it. The engine idle should drop to about 450 RPM and may even die. Now adjust the plunger to a .030 gap between it and the throttle lever. Thanks so much Ranger for your quick response... I am quite an impatient one and as soon as I got it went out and tried it. Let me tell you what happened.... I did notice that the old part had some play in it ( plunger where it would go in and out) the new part looks exactly the same but does not have that play... I tried to ush it in by hand and got no where tried with a screwdriver and still no budge... could the new part be faulty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Was the ignition on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted April 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Was the ignition on? Yes!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 Hmm, now I am not sure what to say. Standby, I'm sure someone else will chime in with an answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 ISC adjustment (bbob) Forget the idle learn procedure. It doesn't apply in this case. First clean the throttle body bores below the blades thoroughly if you haven't already. Good time to clean out the EGR tubes if you haven't done those either. With the engine idling, hold the throttle lever open slightly by hand to get the engine to rev to 2000 RPM or so. Depress the plunger on the idle speed motor with your finger. It should start retracting. Hold the idle speed up with the throttle lever and keep depressing the plunger so that the idle speed motor retracts fully. When it is fully retracted, freeze it by disconnecting the wire connector. It helps to have the lock undone ahead of time so you can yank the wires off without the idle speed control motor extending any. Return the throttle lever to idle. This is the closed bore idle position. There should be about .030 clearance between the plunger and the throttle lever. Adjust the plunger by turning it to get about .030. The engine should be idling about 450-500 RPM warmed up with the AC off with the gap between the plunger and the throttle lever. If not, or if the RPM will not come down you need to find out why. Check the throttle cable to make sure it is slack and allowing the throttle to go to the closed bore position. Check the cruise control link. It, too, should have a slight amount of slack in it when the throttle is in the closed bore position. If not, disconnect the cruise link and reattach so that there is some slack in the link when the engine idles down to 450-500 at the closed bore position. If all this is ok so far then you should be in good shape. I doubt that the TPS is off or needs adjusting. You can check it as described but it is probably fine. It sounds like something may be holding the throttle on occassion so as to keep the throttle lever from contacting the idle speed control motor plunger and closing the nose switch or the closed throttle switch....that click you feel when you first depress the ISC plunger. If that switch is not making when the throttle returns to idle then the idle speed control will not work...much like you describe. Enter into the diagnostics mode with the engine idling. After the codes display the system should show PCM? Press the HI button to get into the PCM mode. Now look at the climate control panel. See the "LO" icon? That signals the status of the closed throttle switch. When the LO is lit the switch is closed. It should lite up to signal the switch is closing anytime you release the throttle. Watch it while driving. If the closed throttle switch does not close when you are releasing the throttle then something is restricting the throttle movement or the idle speed control motor plunger is sticky and/or the switch inside is defective. Make the checks as described and report back.... The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted April 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 ISC adjustment (bbob) Forget the idle learn procedure. It doesn't apply in this case. First clean the throttle body bores below the blades thoroughly if you haven't already. Good time to clean out the EGR tubes if you haven't done those either. With the engine idling, hold the throttle lever open slightly by hand to get the engine to rev to 2000 RPM or so. Depress the plunger on the idle speed motor with your finger. It should start retracting. Hold the idle speed up with the throttle lever and keep depressing the plunger so that the idle speed motor retracts fully. When it is fully retracted, freeze it by disconnecting the wire connector. It helps to have the lock undone ahead of time so you can yank the wires off without the idle speed control motor extending any. Return the throttle lever to idle. This is the closed bore idle position. There should be about .030 clearance between the plunger and the throttle lever. Adjust the plunger by turning it to get about .030. The engine should be idling about 450-500 RPM warmed up with the AC off with the gap between the plunger and the throttle lever. If not, or if the RPM will not come down you need to find out why. Check the throttle cable to make sure it is slack and allowing the throttle to go to the closed bore position. Check the cruise control link. It, too, should have a slight amount of slack in it when the throttle is in the closed bore position. If not, disconnect the cruise link and reattach so that there is some slack in the link when the engine idles down to 450-500 at the closed bore position. If all this is ok so far then you should be in good shape. I doubt that the TPS is off or needs adjusting. You can check it as described but it is probably fine. It sounds like something may be holding the throttle on occassion so as to keep the throttle lever from contacting the idle speed control motor plunger and closing the nose switch or the closed throttle switch....that click you feel when you first depress the ISC plunger. If that switch is not making when the throttle returns to idle then the idle speed control will not work...much like you describe. Enter into the diagnostics mode with the engine idling. After the codes display the system should show PCM? Press the HI button to get into the PCM mode. Now look at the climate control panel. See the "LO" icon? That signals the status of the closed throttle switch. When the LO is lit the switch is closed. It should lite up to signal the switch is closing anytime you release the throttle. Watch it while driving. If the closed throttle switch does not close when you are releasing the throttle then something is restricting the throttle movement or the idle speed control motor plunger is sticky and/or the switch inside is defective. Make the checks as described and report back.... Thanks so much!! I wil do it tomorrow as it is after 10 pm my time and I have to cal it quits for the night. I will print this out and do it step by step ( I already cleaned out the TB, finished a few min ago just in case that was the problem.. but it was not as it is still doing the same thing. I may need to get a little help as I was barely able to move the plunger... maybe I do not have enough umph behind it.... will work on the problem tomorrow and add another udpadte post to this then... thanks so much!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 My plunger (I mean ISC motor) was kinda long, and I had to shorten it as I recall now. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 My plunger (I mean ISC motor) was kinda long, and I had to shorten it as I recall now. Braggart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted April 12, 2006 Report Share Posted April 12, 2006 My plunger (I mean ISC motor) was kinda long, and I had to shorten it as I recall now. Braggart The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cassie Posted April 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 Hello, Well I did go out there with good directions (thanks!) and the best intentions. But in daylight noticed a little antifreeze leak from water pump. So decided to replace it... got the pump and went to do it but after giving it a second over... it looked realy tight in there and a lot of bolts so decided to put it int he shop... asked him to adjust idle for me while it was there. I hate to not do it myself... I am quite stubborn that way... but life has also taught me when to give.... What I hate the most is talking to the mechanic.. trying to say what I think is wrong or what I feel needs to be done... or what I've done so far I get a look like I am speakng Chinese.... I think to him all women just put gas in it and expect to go..... Now I am on to another problem I have a 1948 Dodge PU that is eating up condensors?? and running like **** ..... It has been changed over to 12 volts.... will check the volts... but am thinking, one the carb I have on it is feeding to much fuel.. heard I could get a jet to put in it but how to find one??? I have the orig carb not sure it is worth rebuilding... It now fouls out the two plugs that are the closest... maybe have a ground problem too! Where to start??? Will just pluck away one thing at a time..... I guess.. Thanks so much for your help!!! It feels good to know there is a place to go for help where people do not act like I speak Chinese!!!!! You guys are super!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 13, 2006 Report Share Posted April 13, 2006 On the Dodge you may need to convert to a condenser that handles 12 volts, it might be a 6 volt condenser? If you are feeding too much fuel, check the float, it could be leaking and have fuel inside it and you are flooding. The needle valve could be worn out also. Think of a carburator like it is a toilet tank, the float assembly works like the tank on the toilet, if the float ball is leaking the level will rise and too much water will be in the tank. You should be able to get a rebuilding kit for the carb. See if you can find a Hemmings Motor News, they have vintage parts suppliers: http://www.hemmings.com/index.cfm/fuseacti.../category2/MPIT See this: http://www.hemmings.com/images/pdfs/I_64072.pdf If it is fouling plugs, I would check compression maybe you are slipping oil past the rings. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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