kcd1184 Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Started Monday afternoon to install front pads and rotors on the Eldo and I finally finished Thursday night. What a combination of events! Started out OK with the usual removal and replacement of pads (Wagner semi) and rotors(Wagner-USA). The old rotors couldn't be turned again. Three of the old pads were 3/16ths left but one was 1/Zillionth away from the metal backing. I was getting pulsating and grindy-rumbly noise, but no warning tab niose. Glad I checked into it. I was all set to put the wheels on when I noticed a crack in the left rubber brake line hose right above the bracket where the steel line connects underneath. Called my friend at the parts place and asked how serious it was and he said probably not a good thing to chance. He didn't have the replacement lines(same age, might as well do both) so I drove to the warehouse to pick them up to save an hour. Got back and now the delays begin. The rubber brake line on the left side seemed to be fused to the steel brake line. My friend said get some Blaster(parts loosener) and wait an hour, a day if possible. Sprayed both sides and waited till after work the next night. Tuesday) Tried to loosen the left fitting but it still seemd tight so I jumped over to the right side. That was tight also but I found out that the replacement hose had been pressed in backward in the bracket. The supply house said that there was not another Wagner hose for that side anywhere in the country. I called my friend and he said he would find me a good pair of hoses but not to be delivered till Wednesday. Picked up a set of Raybestos hoses after work Wednesday(for cost) and continued on my brake project. I had to use a little heat on the fittings, but they came apart well. The first side took about two hours to replace the brake line, the second side took about fifteen minutes.(live and learn) Now , I'm all set to bleed the lines and be done, except the bleeder fittings are all froze up. I give them a shot or four of Blaster and decide to give the stuff another day to work its magic. Thursday after work I give the bleeder fittings a little heat, a few taps, and out they come.(replaced with new ones) Everything is working great now, except a different friend told me that the strange wear pattern on the brake pads(my old ones) might be caused by a bad caliper instead of seized-up travel pins. I'll keep my eye on the new pads. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Kent, I've walked this road. An hour job turns into an all day event. At least you did it right and won't be wondering if something will give up later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I am going to have just my rear rotors turned on my 94 Concours, I was quoted $40.00 to have it done. Is that a good price? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 Wow Kent, that is an ugly story. I had mine in for warranty work and the mechanic pointed out that my pads were worn and in need of replacing soon. Naturaly I passed, but ordered a set which are on my work bench waiting for warmer weather. Hoping mine will go much easier. Gotta love those "simple" jobs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I am going to have just my rear rotors turned on my 94 Concours, I was quoted $40.00 to have it done. Is that a good price? Paul, are they going to pull the rotors and turn them? If so, $40 is a good price, as the machine shop alone charged between $10 and $15 per rotor to turn them if you carry them in. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I am going to have just my rear rotors turned on my 94 Concours, I was quoted $40.00 to have it done. Is that a good price? Paul, are they going to pull the rotors and turn them? If so, $40 is a good price, as the machine shop alone charged between $10 and $15 per rotor to turn them if you carry them in. Mike They are going to pull them, clean up the contact to the hub areas and turn them, then put them back on while I watch. I thought it was a good price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I am going to have just my rear rotors turned on my 94 Concours, I was quoted $40.00 to have it done. Is that a good price? Paul, are they going to pull the rotors and turn them? If so, $40 is a good price, as the machine shop alone charged between $10 and $15 per rotor to turn them if you carry them in. Mike They are going to pull them, clean up the contact to the hub areas and turn them, then put them back on while I watch. I thought it was a good price. Definately a good price considering you aren't getting your hands dirty (as long as they don't cross sell you)! Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I am going to have just my rear rotors turned on my 94 Concours, I was quoted $40.00 to have it done. Is that a good price? Paul, are they going to pull the rotors and turn them? If so, $40 is a good price, as the machine shop alone charged between $10 and $15 per rotor to turn them if you carry them in. Mike They are going to pull them, clean up the contact to the hub areas and turn them, then put them back on while I watch. I thought it was a good price. Definately a good price considering you aren't getting your hands dirty (as long as they don't cross sell you)! Mike I probably will get my hands dirty because I am going to take advantage of the car being up on the rack. I plan on checking the exhaust , struts, stabilizer bushings, and anything else I can see from the bottom. I have been dealing with these guys for 25 years and I have not been let down yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted April 7, 2006 Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I probably will get my hands dirty because I am going to take advantage of the car being up on the rack. I plan on checking the exhaust , struts, stabilizer bushings, and anything else I can see from the bottom. I have been dealing with these guys for 25 years and I have not been let down yet. A perfect opportunity to pull fresh fluid through all the brake line plumbing. The fronts can be done without pulling the wheels. But the rears are much easier when the wheels are removed. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted April 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2006 I drained the brake fluid and before I hooked up the new front brake lines , I ran new fluid through quite a bit. My thinking was that this would clean (flush) things out. My parts friend had said this would not affect the rear brakes. Everything seems to work fine. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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