KenD Posted March 26, 2006 Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 I have had an 'annoying' knocking and rubbing noise coming from my passenger's side wheel. It will knock when driving but not when going over speed bumps or when bouncing if that makes any sense. I can sometimes feel the knock in my steering wheel when it does happen. Shocks are GM replacement (not the expensive ones) and they were replaced about 70,000km ago on each side. The strut mounts were not replaced when these shocks were replaced. The car does drive straight, so I don't think it's an alignment issue, although my steering wheel when driving straight is not perfectly centered. I was thinking of ball joints, but wanted to throw this out to anyone who may have had a similar incident. thanks Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 26, 2006 Report Share Posted March 26, 2006 I would jack up each side and try to move the wheel assembly at 9 & 3, and 12 and 6 o'clock and see if you have any play. It may be a tie rod, or a strut rod bushing that is allowing play. The strut rod bushing will not show itself easily, you will need to visually inspect it. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
winterset Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 At 20k on my '96, I had similiar symptoms on my drivers side. the dealer told me he changed the strut mount, and it solved the problem. I never had a problem on the other side, & I now have 95k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Thanks for the info so far. The noise is sporadic and doesn't happen all the time. Hell, it seems to be more pronounced when I'm driving on a smooth service, such as hwy driving. Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Does it happen with no apparent cause, ie braking, turning, etc? I said tie rod because of two things 1) your steering wheel is cocked, and 2) you feel it in the steering wheel. We have had a member have a loose steering rack, have a look at the bolts. Someone brought up the strut mounts which is a good thought, except based on my experience from Regis's symptoms, he got the noise going over/into curb cuts. What causes your noise anything in particular? Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 It seems to be that the strut mounts are a weak point on our vehicles. They've both been replaced once on my car, and one of the replacements has been noisey ever since I got the car at 82k miles. It now has 151k, and the same one (driver side) is intermittent noisey. The passenger side has always been quiet. I have been considering replacing mine for a while, but now the A/C work will supercede the strut mounts. No biggie -- the worst symptom mine has is a squawk that's most pronounced when the weather is cold or wet. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 When starting off, I will sometimes get the clunk noise, when having the wheel turned when getting out of the driveway, it will clunk when I start to turn the steering wheel and get out into the street. It doesn't happen all the time, that's what's so strange about it. Although it is starting to happen more often than not. I do notice, and I don't know if this is normal, but at low speeds, I can wiggle the steering back and forth and it has a distinct knocking from the front end. Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 My guess is the strut rod bushings, have a look at them. The strut rod bushings hold the lower control arm in place, when they are bad the lower control arm can move fore and aft. Look at those first. Also as others have said, look at your strut mounts, do a search under Regis, he gives a good description of symptoms when his were bad. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted March 27, 2006 Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 Hi Ken, Sounds to me that it's something in the control arm region (ball joint, strut bar, and or strut bar bushings). Here is a link to a previous discussion that I think you'll find very helpful: Front End Sound If I had to take a guess I would say that your strut bar bushings are toast but it's only a guess. I ended up replacing my control arm with a used one and all was fine for awhile. The replacement was less worn but worn enough where the strut bar bushings sleeve over that in a few months the clunk/thudding sound returned. I was just working on the original control arm this morning. I took a grinder to the strut bar end and got all the rust off and down to shiney metal. I then applied JB Weld over the end to build it up. Let it cure for a couple hours and took a grinder to it to get it down to proper size. Next Tuesday the "fixed" original control arm goes back on and I'll see just how strong JB Weld really is. I took pictures and will post when everything is done and tested. "Burns" rubber " I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted March 28, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Thanks for all your insight on this problem. I know that it's a PITA to diagnose something where there is so much that can go wrong and replaced. I don't want to start and throw $$ at it and hope that what I replace is the part that HOPEFULLY needs replacing, but I guess it's one of those things. The snow is starting to melt here and it's getting warmer, so I can almost get the car up on mounts and take a peek. I can start with taking the wheel off and checking and inspect for looseness and go from there. Thanks again to all who helped, this board is absolutely great for that! Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maremrak Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Hi Regis, I have been fighting the front end noise since I got my car. Two years ago I replaced both front strut mounts. I just replaced both tie rods, link pins, and both lower ball joints and still could not get rid of the noise. I need a good mechanic who will diagnose the problem properly, and since you are also in New York, can you refer me to your mechanic? Thanks. 1960 Sedan De Ville (sold) 1970 Coupe De Ville (sold) 1987 Mazda RX-7 (sold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Hi maremrak, What part of NY are we talking here? I'm in Upstate near Syracuse. Are we close? "Burns" rubber " I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikeal1892 Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Could it be the bushings in the control arms ?? Michael Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Could it be the bushings in the control arms ?? Michael While the control arm bushings can go bad, its rare Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Sounds like what you need is to take it to a shop with a set of "chassis ears". This is a tool that they can install in specific areas of the car, and drive it to hear the noises that area makes. That can really pinpoint the source of the noise. Similar to this, as an example: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=7922 Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 Thanks for all your insight on this problem. I know that it's a PITA to diagnose something where there is so much that can go wrong and replaced. I don't want to start and throw $$ at it and hope that what I replace is the part that HOPEFULLY needs replacing, but I guess it's one of those things. The snow is starting to melt here and it's getting warmer, so I can almost get the car up on mounts and take a peek. I can start with taking the wheel off and checking and inspect for looseness and go from there. Thanks again to all who helped, this board is absolutely great for that! Ken Ken, Keep in mind that it's very difficult to check the wear on the strut bar bushing by simply removing the wheel and pull/push on the control arm. It takes a great deal of force (like turning out of a driveway) to detect slop or movement in the bushing. There are 2 sections that make up the bushing (front and back), one section is cone shaped. The cone is the section that prevents the strut bar from contacting the frame. It is near impossible to tell if the cone part is worn without removing it simply because you cannot see it otherwise. The only parts of the bushing you can see are the outer sections that are cupped with 2" washers but it doesn't necessarily indicate the condition of the cone. Considering that you have the same year STS as I do and that time as well as miles wear on rubber parts, it would be a safe bet that your strut bar bushings are worn. Mine rubbed a hole through the cone so with the right pressure it was creating a metal to metal contact. Not all the time but it became more and more frequent and only while making left pullout turns..... like say out of a driveway or parking lot. Sound familiar? Here is a photo link to the work I'm doing on my strut bar. The first pic you'll notice just how worn the bar actually got. It's supposed to be much thicker and even. Notice how carved out it got. I used a grinder to remove only the rust. In the second photo I applied JB Weld and let it cure for a couple hours. The 3rd photo is the finished product after using a grinder to get it reduced down to specs. Strut Bar Work "Burns" rubber " I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maremrak Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 Hi maremrak, What part of NY are we talking here? I'm in Upstate near Syracuse. Are we close? Unfortunately I live in New York City, too far. Thanks. 1960 Sedan De Ville (sold) 1970 Coupe De Ville (sold) 1987 Mazda RX-7 (sold) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted March 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 31, 2006 One other quick thing that I forgot to mention is that the car's front end feels "floaty". Tire pressure is good, but the handling is not like it used to be. Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenD Posted April 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2006 Okay, from what I can tell, it seems to be the strut mounts. I can bounce each side of the car by hand and it makes a nice knocking noise. I'm gonna start there and see what happens. thanks to all! Ken 1994 STS Pearl White 260,000 KM (163,000 miles) <img src="http://img45.photobucket.com/albums/v137/caesar/caddycaesar.jpg" border="0" class="linked-sig-image" /> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Regis Posted August 31, 2006 Report Share Posted August 31, 2006 Ken, Just wondering what the status of the problem is. Any updates for us? I have a thump sound when I turn the car over and with the car on I get a thump (knock) sound when I wiggle the steering wheel left and right. If I drive slowly and wiggle the steering wheel I can hear it knock. In the back of my mind I was thinking steering rack but it's a difficult item to diagnose. So I took it in and Ken (the mech) thinks it's the rack as well. He thinks it's play in the gears. I also get the floaty feel at 68+mph and intermittent yet random steering wheel vibration that increases up and down depending on road surface geometry. I'll update myself after the new rack is in. "Burns" rubber " I've never considered myself to be all that conservative, but it seems the more liberal some people get the more conservative I become. " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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