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My son was home from school with his 93 Taurus and he told me on the trip down that he had a terrible grinding sound from the rear. Being an impatient 20 year old, he took his car to the local garage and they wanted $500 for brakes so I told him to drive it out to Daddy. I pulled the wheel and his rear caliper was frozen and his parking brake cable was frozen on...

I replaced the Rotor, Caliper and pads.. His inboard pad was GONE :blink: and the piston was rubbing on the rotor (I hope it still can be turned in as a CORE...)... I changed all the parts, freed up his brake cable (it was rusted and needs replacing at some point). Bleeding the system BY MYSELF was a challenge, my MIGHTY-VAC was sucking air and didn't suck fluid for some reason, odd... I didnt have a helper to do the DOWN/UP routine, and them I remembered Adallak..... he said he presses the pedal and placed a 2x4 on the brake pedal and lodged it against the seat.... That worked perfect and I got a high hard pedal quickly... Thanks Adallak for the idea... comes in handy when you don't have a dummy to sit in the seal to give DOWN/UP commands to...

He made it back to college in Mass and all was fine... Cost $137... Thanks

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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My daughter had a '98 "Snaurus" as she called it when she got out of college til I found her the SLS 2 years ago. It had 104K on it at the time and I was never so glad to see a car go. She had the same problem with the brake cable. Replaced all 4 hub & bearing assemblies. Hope you never have to do that. They ain't like GM, "Ford has a better idea". Constantly had problems with wheel speed sensors. Fords are not integral like GMs. Watch those caliper slide pins too. Fords boots are not as good as GMs. She had one that was dry as a bone and rusted. You know what that result was. Over all I was not impressed with the car. She was not enthused with the idea of a Caddy "grandma car" at the time, but has since come around. She loves it now.

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My son was home from school with his 93 Taurus and he told me on the trip down that he had a terrible grinding sound from the rear. Being an impatient 20 year old, he took his car to the local garage and they wanted $500 for brakes so I told him to drive it out to Daddy. I pulled the wheel and his rear caliper was frozen and his parking brake cable was frozen on...

I replaced the Rotor, Caliper and pads.. His inboard pad was GONE :blink: and the piston was rubbing on the rotor (I hope it still can be turned in as a CORE...)... I changed all the parts, freed up his brake cable (it was rusted and needs replacing at some point). Bleeding the system BY MYSELF was a challenge, my MIGHTY-VAC was sucking air and didn't suck fluid for some reason, odd... I didnt have a helper to do the DOWN/UP routine, and them I remembered Adallak..... he said he presses the pedal and placed a 2x4 on the brake pedal and lodged it against the seat.... That worked perfect and I got a high hard pedal quickly... Thanks Adallak for the idea... comes in handy when you don't have a dummy to sit in the seal to give DOWN/UP commands to...

He made it back to college in Mass and all was fine... Cost $137... Thanks

:lol: You are welcome Mike. Yes it worked well for me, but I would not EVER recommend that trick when car is in gear (say trying powerbrake and do something under the hood ). The stick may jump out and release the brake pedal. :o

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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My daughter had a '98 "Snaurus" as she called it when she got out of college til I found her the SLS 2 years ago. It had 104K on it at the time and I was never so glad to see a car go. She had the same problem with the brake cable. Replaced all 4 hub & bearing assemblies. Hope you never have to do that. They ain't like GM, "Ford has a better idea". Constantly had problems with wheel speed sensors. Fords are not integral like GMs. Watch those caliper slide pins too. Fords boots are not as good as GMs. She had one that was dry as a bone and rusted. You know what that result was. Over all I was not impressed with the car. She was not enthused with the idea of a Caddy "grandma car" at the time, but has since come around. She loves it now.

Ranger, you take the words out of my mouth, Ford has a better Idea, YEA....to do it as CHEAP and LIGHT as possible! I always say that, Ford has a better idea, YEA STUPID...... :lol::lol::lol: I hate their engineering...

Yes, the sliders were DRY as a BONE with dust, the slider boots were gone. I need to go to my junk yard and buy a new caliper bracket for him as one of the holes was HUGE and the slider flopped around, I will see if they have a new brake cable also, the old one rusted UNDER the rubber covering and swelled up and jammed ON.... Yea that was a better idea.. It really is a POS, highlighted by my Deville

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Let me add that while this is a 93, the caliper braket was rusted so badly that the grooves that hold the slider boots in place were rusted so badly that there was no groove on one to hold the boot in place. Its amazing that they could use such crappy steel. The Cadillac even my 91, never showed that type of deterioration.

If people could see and understand these types of things I doubt that they would buy Fords as a result, to me there is only one car manufacturer, GM and its confirmed every time I work on something else.

One thing that Ford used to do that in a way was ingenious was their way of handling engagement of the starter drive by using armature magnitism to pull an arm and push the drive into the flywheel, ingenious? yes, requiring more battery power, yes, the cheap way of doing it, definately. I prefer the GM way, use an integral solenoid and coil to push the starter drive out, its an active and more positive way of accomplishing the task if you ask me. I never understood the allure of Fords, but I am sure Ford lovers feel the same way about GM engineering I guess

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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