Matt Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Hey Guys, I hope everyone is fine. A few days ago after getting home from work there was the faint smell of engine coolent. I gave it the casual look under the car and saw nothing then looked under the hood and did not notice anything. I was releived but thought to my self, you are not smelling it for nothing. So today I got home and smelled it again but stronger. It was not hard to find it this time, there was about 1/4 cup of coolent on the ground under the driver side radiator tank. I poped the hood and found the front of the driver side radiator tank had split, and coolent was trickeling down. I called my shop to see who we use and gave them a call. The fellow said they will come and pick up the radiator after I take it out and call them. Then they will replace the tank and deliver it back to me early afternoon. He said $95.00 to do it. What do you guys think about the price ? I looked fast at the job a few minuts ago. Then I looked in the service manual. It seems easy as all heck. I'll take off the plastic shields around the top, then get the catch pans and remove the hoses and then the cooling lines. Then the top brackets and it looks like the rear fan will tilt back far enough to lift the radiator out. Wa La. It will be around 37F. in the AM, there is no room in the shop so outside it has to be. Now, I have to drive it about 5 miles to work, the engine temp was 224 when I got home, normal is about 197 to 214. What temps should I be carefull of ?? All I need to do is hurt this 4.9L, Bodybyfisher will kill me. LOL.. Time to make dinner. Check back later guys.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 One tank for $95 with you pulling the radiator? I bought a new radiator for about $160, check out the prices for a new AC DELCO radiator. Rockauto has radiators for $118, $139, $155 and $203 for your car. Don't let your temp go above 240 if you can help it.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Hi Mike, I will check around then. OK on the temp. I will watch out for that. This shop charges for pick up and delivery, it's 10 bucks each way, so they are charging $75.00 for the repair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 Hey Guys, I hope everyone is fine. A few days ago after getting home from work there was the faint smell of engine coolent. I gave it the casual look under the car and saw nothing then looked under the hood and did not notice anything. I was releived but thought to my self, you are not smelling it for nothing. So today I got home and smelled it again but stronger. It was not hard to find it this time, there was about 1/4 cup of coolent on the ground under the driver side radiator tank. I poped the hood and found the front of the driver side radiator tank had split, and coolent was trickeling down. I called my shop to see who we use and gave them a call. The fellow said they will come and pick up the radiator after I take it out and call them. Then they will replace the tank and deliver it back to me early afternoon. He said $95.00 to do it. What do you guys think about the price ? I looked fast at the job a few minuts ago. Then I looked in the service manual. It seems easy as all heck. I'll take off the plastic shields around the top, then get the catch pans and remove the hoses and then the cooling lines. Then the top brackets and it looks like the rear fan will tilt back far enough to lift the radiator out. Wa La. It will be around 37F. in the AM, there is no room in the shop so outside it has to be. Now, I have to drive it about 5 miles to work, the engine temp was 224 when I got home, normal is about 197 to 214. What temps should I be carefull of ?? All I need to do is hurt this 4.9L, Bodybyfisher will kill me. LOL.. Time to make dinner. Check back later guys.... Do not replace just one tank. You will see the second one moving south soon. Do the both while you are on it. Two tanks WITH GASKETS are about $70 shipped from gmpartsdirect.com. Yes, each tank comes with all the necessary gaskets, do not order them separately. You also can call the local dealer and ask them to match the price having the part numbers and on-line prices handy. This way you will get the parts much faster. It is relatively safe to drive short distances. The tank is not going to fall apart. I believe the crack is on the upper side of the tank, which is good. Keep a galon of coolant in the trunk. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 OK, thanks for that info as well. I'm going to look into a new radiator first of all. I'm going on the phone now!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Good point Adallak... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 A guy that works in the office at my job knows a shop locally. I just spoke to him and it's his Brother in laws shop. He just called him to see what he has. He said he does not have the exact prices at home but he thinks it would cost me about $140.00 and he said it does not come from Tiwan, there made in the US. I would like to go new and wile I'm at it I will mix up some new coolent and 6 of those pills again. Also I have over a gallon of Rotella so I will see if there is a filter in stock at work and do the oil to. Why Not?/ All the hoses under the hood are new so this will save me from doing it in the spring time.( when it is warn and the sane people do there cars) Sound like a plan to you guys??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Sounds good Matt. Just make sure of 1) that the radiator has the same cooling capacity anotherwords that the core is the same and 2) that the cooler lines are the same and that there ARE cooler lines. Some of the after market stuff can be problematic. AC Delco will bolt right in, aftermarket can be a problem. Also, while you are at it, make sure you replace the O-RINGS on the cooler lines once you disturb them they will leak on reassembly. I think there are 4 total, you will need to buy them at the dealer. Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Hey All. Hi Mike; Well the job went well, all in total it took me 69 minuts total. What was no fun was working out in the 22F temps this AM at 6:40 AM in front of my nice warm shop. There was no way I could get it in there with all the other repairs and I wanted the job done so I did it in the 22F weather. The new radiator cost me $145.00 , the gallon of silicated (green coolent) coolent and gallon of distilled water and 6 of those treatment pills cost another $14.50 The radiator was perfect, an exact match!! I had the O-Rings and Wam Bam in it all went. I ran it for a wile and toped off the resivoir tank and it looks dry under the car. I feel much better with the new radiator instead of having the old one repaired and with having put in all new hoses last summer I fee ready to go. I did not change the oil, I was just to cold and whats in there has only 280 or 500 miles on it. Why waste good Rotella.. Got to run, work to do.... Take care all... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Hey All. Hi Mike; Well the job went well, all in total it took me 69 minuts total. What was no fun was working out in the 22F temps this AM at 6:40 AM in front of my nice warm shop. There was no way I could get it in there with all the other repairs and I wanted the job done so I did it in the 22F weather. The new radiator cost me $145.00 , the gallon of silicated (green coolent) coolent and gallon of distilled water and 6 of those treatment pills cost another $14.50 The radiator was perfect, an exact match!! I had the O-Rings and Wam Bam in it all went. I ran it for a wile and toped off the resivoir tank and it looks dry under the car. I feel much better with the new radiator instead of having the old one repaired and with having put in all new hoses last summer I fee ready to go. I did not change the oil, I was just to cold and whats in there has only 280 or 500 miles on it. Why waste good Rotella.. Got to run, work to do.... Take care all... Good job. Replacing the radiator is sure faster than playing with tanks. If you could provide with th e manufacturer of the radiator and the part number it would help many others who are going to have same trouble soon. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Way to go Matt! Good price too..... hardly worth having new tanks put on it huh? Glad you did the o-rings... Now you are ready for AUGUST... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Hey Thanks Guys. I feel good about the job, it was not hard at all. It would have been enjoyable if it was not 24F out when I did it. Burrrrrr I drove it on Rt-80 and took the long way home so I could watch what the temps were doing pluss I wanted to dry it out under the hood because I washed everything down so I would not see and coolent drips and freek out later on. It ran 198 - 204- 198 - 205F, back and forth the whole ride. When I got home I parked on nice clean floor and there were no drips. I was glad again. Next I wanted to post info like adallak asked me to. I called the place in the afternoon and asked for a part Number and Mfgr, the guy said," Why, How Come?". I told him I keep records in detail of everything I do with my car. He said, " What other reason do you want the info for?". The guy said I got a deal on it because I work with so and so and the radiator is covered for a year. He told me to save the receipt and call him if I need another one. SO what is this guy worried about? LOL. If any body lives in the NJ, Bergen County area and needs a radiator for there car PM me and I will give them the Name and number of the radiator shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Hey Thanks Guys. I feel good about the job, it was not hard at all. It would have been enjoyable if it was not 24F out when I did it. Burrrrrr I drove it on Rt-80 and took the long way home so I could watch what the temps were doing pluss I wanted to dry it out under the hood because I washed everything down so I would not see and coolent drips and freek out later on. It ran 198 - 204- 198 - 205F, back and forth the whole ride. When I got home I parked on nice clean floor and there were no drips. I was glad again. Next I wanted to post info like adallak asked me to. I called the place in the afternoon and asked for a part Number and Mfgr, the guy said," Why, How Come?". I told him I keep records in detail of everything I do with my car. He said, " What other reason do you want the info for?". The guy said I got a deal on it because I work with so and so and the radiator is covered for a year. He told me to save the receipt and call him if I need another one. SO what is this guy worried about? LOL. If any body lives in the NJ, Bergen County area and needs a radiator for there car PM me and I will give them the Name and number of the radiator shop. Matt, Thank you for trying. For some reason they do not want to disclose the manufacturer. Hopefully your radiator will serve well. Replacing the both tanks took abot four hours working right on the street. It was summer though. Cold weather makes people move faster. LOL The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 This guy did say the radiators are made in the US, I bet they could be gotton cheep. May be he is trying to keep it a secret, can't blame him I guess. The thing looked great and was packaged very good, that alone impressed me. Well we will see what happens in August when it's 98F outside like Mike said. Take care... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Hi All. I just wanted to add some info on what I have been seeing engine temperature wise since I put in the new radiator. First of all there must have been a pretty big air bubble in the system because Friday I looked at the coolent resivior and it droped pretty low. I toped it off and now it is holding level just fine. Today I took a pretty long ride up Rt- 80W to Rt-287S and back again to visit a friend. I was watching a very active Temperature read out. I never saw it like this before. I think I was seeing the effects of the thermostat opening and closing and pushing coolent through a brand new radiator that was working at 100% efficency. The temp read out would slowly climb to 212 and then dump down to 194 and climb again and dump again. This went on the whole ride, I think it's ok, right? I started to question myself during the long ride if things were working Ok. I was thinking maybe the temp should hold constant but am not sure. I guess lots of things effect engine temp, the terrain, speed, outside temp, but still what I was seeing was constant, like clock work. It was a nice ride. The car performed wonderful, plenty of power and nice and warm inside. Well, must go get the shovel ready and prepair for the blizard. LOL. We shall see. Remember to be careful when shoveling or moving that big old snow blower around guys. It's coming down pretty hard now at 9:50PM Saturday. Catch ya all later. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Hi All. I just wanted to add some info on what I have been seeing engine temperature wise since I put in the new radiator. First of all there must have been a pretty big air bubble in the system because Friday I looked at the coolent resivior and it droped pretty low. I toped it off and now it is holding level just fine. Today I took a pretty long ride up Rt- 80W to Rt-287S and back again to visit a friend. I was watching a very active Temperature read out. I never saw it like this before. I think I was seeing the effects of the thermostat opening and closing and pushing coolent through a brand new radiator that was working at 100% efficency. The temp read out would slowly climb to 212 and then dump down to 194 and climb again and dump again. This went on the whole ride, I think it's ok, right? I started to question myself during the long ride if things were working Ok. I was thinking maybe the temp should hold constant but am not sure. I guess lots of things effect engine temp, the terrain, speed, outside temp, but still what I was seeing was constant, like clock work. It was a nice ride. The car performed wonderful, plenty of power and nice and warm inside. Well, must go get the shovel ready and prepair for the blizard. LOL. We shall see. Remember to be careful when shoveling or moving that big old snow blower around guys. It's coming down pretty hard now at 9:50PM Saturday. Catch ya all later. Matt Rout 80 west and 287 south are pretty flat in your area. The temperature should have stuck around 194 after the stat had opened for the first time during the trip. What you saw was quite unusual. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 I thought that is strange to, but is it a problem? That is the question. Lets see what others have to say. It's now 1:28AM Sunday and man O man it is snowing hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stefank Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 Matt, when I had this happening on other cars it had to do with air bubbles trapped in the system. I had a real hard time getting the air out of a german made 2.8 ltrs V6 Ford, which had the thermostat located in the lower radiator hose. The only solution was to lift the car up in front to get the surge tank to the highest position and let it idle. The air purged out then. I've got no idea whether this would help on the 4.9 thou. Good luck Stefan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 12, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 That is sure an interesting point, I will have to do something to make sure there is not more air pockets in the system. I found a large drop in my surge tank / resivoir the day after I installed the radiator. I took the car on the hiway home after I put it in to try and make sure everything was clear of air pockets and dry everything off. I was hopeing it was filled up OK. Yesterday I did not see a drop in the tank after my trip so I thought everything was full. I was thinking that the new radiator is so clear that everytime the Thermo opened the flow through the new rad was so good that the temp was just dropping fast from the rush of coolent through the system. Also it was 23F outside on the car temp sensor, so that would make the rad pretty cool at 60 MPH. So wile the thermo was closed the radiator water temp was dropping a bit then when it flowed into the system again the coolent was a bit cooler, hence the temp drop on the read out. Does this make sence, is it possible? This all has to be weighed out I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 12, 2006 Report Share Posted February 12, 2006 That is sure an interesting point, I will have to do something to make sure there is not more air pockets in the system. I found a large drop in my surge tank / resivoir the day after I installed the radiator. I took the car on the hiway home after I put it in to try and make sure everything was clear of air pockets and dry everything off. I was hopeing it was filled up OK. Yesterday I did not see a drop in the tank after my trip so I thought everything was full. I was thinking that the new radiator is so clear that everytime the Thermo opened the flow through the new rad was so good that the temp was just dropping fast from the rush of coolent through the system. Also it was 23F outside on the car temp sensor, so that would make the rad pretty cool at 60 MPH. So wile the thermo was closed the radiator water temp was dropping a bit then when it flowed into the system again the coolent was a bit cooler, hence the temp drop on the read out. Does this make sence, is it possible? This all has to be weighed out I guess. It may take a couple of more driving/cooling cycles to get all the air out. Check the reservoir when it is cold, so that the vacuum would suck the coolant back to the radiator. Do not worry, everything will be back to normal. The new radiator could not make any difference. You probably noticed the old one was not plugged at all. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted February 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 I looked at the tank today, it could not be any cooler,LOL at 23F out. It was at the level I last saw it but I will keep an eye on it for a wile. To tell ya the truth I still have not examined the old one to good. What I did do was see how hard it was to bend back a few tabs wondering if I could try for the heck of it to rebuild it my self. The tabs are tough to move and I wonder if there is a special tool to bend them back out of the way. There may even be a tool to bend them back nice and tight. I will see if I can determin how clear the old rad is also. I need to have some time to play with it is all. I finished my snow clearing today, WOW what a job. We toped out at 21" on the yard stick and drifts were over 3 '. There are some real big snow drifts over hanging on some of the taller homes near bye. I was hoopeing to see one of them fall but no luck. My dog Zac loved being out in the snow for a wile with me today, she acted her ol self. She is doing fine now, putting on weight every week. Last December she was down to 37 Lbs and yesterday she weighed in at 43 1/2 Lbs, it's a long cry from 70Lbs last spring. What a shame this had to happen. Cancer is cruel and uncareing, it takes so many,Man and animal.. I'm doing all I can for her and I pray for the best... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 I used a chisel to open up the tabs.Pliers and a wise have been used to close them. Did not brake any tab. The FSM says it's OK to brake a couple. I flushed the core really good. By the end, the radiator looked like new. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 13, 2006 Report Share Posted February 13, 2006 Yeah, I think the old guru said a screwdriver and pliers where the only tools needed to do the side tanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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