Southern Style Posted June 8, 2005 Report Share Posted June 8, 2005 Dropped my car off at the dealer yesterday to have a little A/C work done. Dealer said the compressor is bad and will cost 1,500 to R&R. Surprise surprise. While it was in they went ahead and did the fuel rail campain. The car runs like crap now. Idle fluctuates from 500 to 800 RPM. Misses in neutral and even worse when in drive. Exaust smells strange, but not like gas. I found a brittle vacume line the tech. had brokec and they fixed it. I never left the service drive and is still at dealer now. The writer called me and said I need an ISC motor, Fuel Pressure Regulator,Isc Wiring connector,Idle Relearn which will total $906. BITE ME! Anyone have an idea about what I should do other than what I really want to do? Fuel pressure regulator ( which was removed from old rail and installed on new) cause all these issues? Car ran great before they touched it. I can't trust any dealer. Gonna Have To Do It My self! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhall Posted June 8, 2005 Report Share Posted June 8, 2005 Search the board and I think you'll find similar stories related to the fuel rail issue. One sure-fire method to avoid trouble is to take the service rep for a ride BEFORE they work on the car and then pull up the code history to show that the car does not have any malfunctions that prevent it from running properly. While the above won't help you right now, point out to them that you drove the car to them - it was not towed - and it was running fine. If a service rep drove the car to the work area (rather than you driving it), then you've got evidence that the car was OK before they worked on it. Chances are they got some crap in the the fuel rail when they replaced the lines and one or more injectors are plugged. Another possiblity is that they damage one or more of the injector connector wires while working on the car. You may need to take a hard stand, but make them get the car back in the same running order when you brought it to them. GM has a customer service number that might be of some help. Others may have some aditional advice. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 8, 2005 Report Share Posted June 8, 2005 Dropped my car off at the dealer yesterday to have a little A/C work done. Dealer said the compressor is bad and will cost 1,500 to R&R. Surprise surprise. What was the work you needed performed to the A/C system? What was wrong with the compressor that required replacement??? There are two predominate failure modes on the A/C compressors - shaft seal leaks and case seal leaks. Shaft seals are $25 and can usually be replaced without removing the compressor from the car. The refrigerant will need to be recovered prior to this job. If the case seals are leaking, then it is best to buy a new compressor. A compressor manufactured after Jan, 2001 has an improved case seal. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted June 8, 2005 Report Share Posted June 8, 2005 Several members reported problems with plug wires right after fuel rail was replaced. Looks like you are the next victim. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Yup, I'm betting on wires. I developed a misfire shortly after the fuel rail replacement as have many others. It seems that moving old wires around causes them to break down somehow. A new set of Delco wires cured my problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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