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Okay, now we finally begin the front suspension build. This will entail research and discussion (Anyone is welcome to contribute), budgeting, parts collecting, modifications, stock part swapping, assembly, and testing.

I don't have the $$$ to build exactly what I want and will be choosing parts based on the best bang for the buck upgrades. I will eventually upgrade whatever I build now, so consider this as step 1.

Do to my limited time (and only having one car to drive) I will have to do the build one or two steps at a time. This is not a bad thing as it will allow me to access each improvement.

Right now, most of the front suspension is worn out so some basic maintenance repairs will be included.

Okay ..... Let the games begin!

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Starting point: FE1 soft ride, non electronic, with 19MM bar, soft springs (one sagging), worn bearings, ball joints, outer tie rod ends, struts, sway bar end links, LCA bushings, upper strut mounts, and loose rack.

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1st project: Front stabilizer bar and end links.

The links are so shot, it's like not having a bar. Prices vary from $15 per pair to $145 each. I may convert to 04-08 Grand Prix GXP struts, so the link's tapered stem may not work, so I'm going with cheap links for now.

The stabilizer bar is the same 23MM unit from a previous post that I found on a Seville STS.

Reminder - the sport bar for the Eldorado is 21MM.

NOTE: due to the strut mounting position, the 23MM bar is equivalent to a 33MM bar that mounts to the lower control arm.

For now, I used my worn stock 19MM rubber frame mount bushings. I will cover those bushings in a future post. The 23MM bar crushes them to a nice tight fit and makes them act like newer rubber.... It works as a starting point.

1st project: Front stabilizer bar and end links.

The links are so shot, it's like not having a bar. Prices vary from $15 per pair to $145 each. I may convert to 04-08 Grand Prix GXP struts, so the link's tapered stem may not work, so I'm going with cheap links for now.

The stabilizer bar is the same 23MM unit from a previous post that I found on a Seville STS.

Reminder - the sport bar for the Eldorado is 21MM.

1029151710.jpg

NOTE: due to the strut mounting position, the 23MM bar is equivalent to a 33MM bar that mounts to the lower control arm.

For now, I used my worn stock 19MM rubber frame mount bushings. I will cover those bushings in a future post. The 23MM bar crushes them to a nice tight fit and makes them act like newer rubber.... It works as a starting point.

Click here to visit the main directory for my subforum about my 2002 Eldorado build for autocross racing:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showforum=96

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Amazing difference!!!!!

WOW!!!!!!!!!!

The handling is flat on sweepers. However, the weak springs will give too much allowing some lean on quick sharp turns especially while braking.

But very fun to drive!

Click here to visit the main directory for my subforum about my 2002 Eldorado build for autocross racing:

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You said FE1 - is this a base Eldorado, not an ETC? Not that it makes much difference once you change the stabilizers and such but there are differences in the engine (intake cams), PCM, and final drive ratio and such.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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yes, its an ESC (base model) with Y-code engine. This was my second choice engine for autocross. There are two different types of autocross racing, Solo II and Pro Solo. Solo II is the short track wish slower speeds and sharper turns. This is the type of track in my area and the most common. Pro Solo has longer straights and more big sweeping turns. My first choice was the 4.9 and I was looking for a good '93 model but was unable to find one at the time and needed a car quickly. The 4.9 is about 100 lbs. lighter and is easier to throw through sharp turns because the weight of the engine is forward of the front wheels; the 4.9 id the quickest off the line, barley faster than the Y- Motor, but will beat a 9- motor all the way to 40 MPH.

If I was mainly going Pro Solo, the 9- Motor would be the only way to go. it is by far quicker at 40 MPH and above.

I will be racing Solo II about 5 times per year and Pro Solo about once per year. The Y-Motor is faster off the line than the 9- Motor, but is also faster than the 4.9 at reaching 60 MPH. The Y-motor gets better MPG than the 9-motor, but quite as good as the 4.9.... And I drive 50 miles per day. The Y- motor is my compromise to be competitive in both types of racing and not go broke driving to work.

4.9 = 0-60 in 8ish seconds (fastest in 0-40)

Y- motor = 0-60 in 6.8 seconds (or 7.0 seconds)

9- motor = 0-60 in 6.3 (or 6.5) seconds (slowest in 0-40)

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Here's the 23MM bar from the K- body FE3 suspension next to the E-body FE1 suspension. I have only found four of these bars in salvage yards and there's no info online about them. All of the E-body FE3's and most of the K-body FE3's have 21MM bars

1028150117b-1.jpg

1028150114.jpg

1028150116.jpg

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The issues I had with the front stabilizer bar-to-frame bushings:

1. No one makes them for these cars in 23MM.

2. No one makes them for these cars in polyurethane.

3. They are a specific external shape and have a tapered internal bore which prevents a universal polyurethane replacement (unless extensive custom work is done).

I did extensive searching and found that the NAPA units for 21MM bars are made of synthetic materials but couldn't find specific details. I ordered a set and they appear to be hard plastic like the polyurethane but I don't know the hardness.

However, the bore is WAY too small for the 23MM bar. I double checked and this is not the 19MM part... So, I must have the hole custom bored.

Due to irregular, external shape, the machine shop wanted $60 to do the job.

.. Thanks but no thanks ... I'll do it myself with a drill and a tapered bit sometime in the near future.

1027152314a.jpg

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1027152316.jpg

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I am amazed at how much cornering grip this car has in a high speed sweeping turn; especially with the amount of wear the front suspension has. I know that the tires I'm running on the front have a lot to do with it. These are 255/45ZR18 Continental Pro Conti Extreme Contact Patch DW's on 8.5" rims. They handle far better than the Goodyear Integrity AS tires ( 225/60R16 on 7" wide rims).

The 225/60's have the correct rolling diameter for the ESC Eldorados at 26.5".

The 255/45 18's have a 27" diameter which match the 235/60R16's that came stock on some ETC Eldorados

My future summer tires that will be on 10" or 10.5" wide wheels will either be 275/40 18's (26.5") or 285/40 18's (27")

Curious: my speedometer reads correctly with the taller tires and it's 3 MPH slow with the correct height tires.... I wonder if the previous owner replaced the transmission with one from an ETC.... A lower gear ratio might explain why my car did a 6.8 second zero to 60 with the shorter tires instead of the expected 7 seconds.

I hate it that my sloppy front end is chewing up these tires. I have to get this thing rebuilt so it will hold alignment.... Plus, it's getting kind of scary. It wants to wander and follow uneven pavement. I hate that pop and jerk when turning the wheels to enter a parking place .

I discovered that the excessive wear is due not only to one of my old 16" wheels being bent but the hub surface is also slightly bent. The very slight shaking over 50,000 miles of driving after hitting that curb has worn everything out under both front fenders.

1028150227.jpg

1028150228.jpg

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As you know, torque steer is caused by the steering rotation axis (before 1955 and ball joints, called the kingpin axis) not passing through the center of the tire patch. In a strut suspension, the steering axis is the center-line of the strut.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thanks for correcting my "sreet talk"; I removed the term and cleaned up the post some. I was attempting to tell how the slack in the steering would allow a lane change if I was in a slight turn or merging from an on ramp and stomped the accelerator.

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My outer tie rods arrived in the mail.

1101151137a.jpg

I chose to get the type with zerk fittings so I could keep them lubed. Sealed units are also available.

I picked up some HD grease at Lowe's.

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I was trying to find long stem ball joints to raise the front roll center or a way to make an adapter for a different type, so I didn't order ball joints with the tie rod ends. I also don't have the schedule for both repairs on the same night. I just can't wait any longer- way too much slack in the steering. .... Here are the tie rods that came off:

1101151138.jpg

Here is a side-by-side:

1101151141a.jpg

The ball and socket are slightly smaller in the replacement units; I'll have to keep them well lubed. I do like the bands that hold down the poly boots.

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Since the grease boot is polyurethane and banded tightly in place, AND located BELOW the joint, I over filled it to create a little pressure. Then after working the grease into the joint by bending it back and forth a few times, I used an ink pen to open the fitting.... air spewed out, followed by the excess grease.

1101151254.jpg

1101151300.jpg

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1101151255b.jpg

I love the way it looks through the wheel, but the 14" rotors will soon block the view.

1101151330a.jpg

The steering has improved greatly, but there is still a lot of slack.

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The 1,000 lb. variable rate springs work great for the rear and are just about a 350% rate increase over the stock springs. Their final cut will make them 375%-400% stiffer. I wanted to stay close to that percentage for the front.

In order to do this swap, I need variable rate springs with at least one square end; they also must have the same diameter as the lower pigtail of the stock spring so they fit the Cadillac strut (or Grand Prix strut). And their free height must be shorter than the stock spring's installed height.

I will also need an upper strut mount that fits the diameter of the new spring since the stock spring diameter is conical and much wider at the top.

I found my donor car; a 1997 V8 Thunderbird. Their rear coils are only 0.1" wider than the Cadillac springs, are about 2" shorter and show to have a 416 lb. Variable rate. This gives me about a 375% rate increase if I don't have to cut them to adjust ride height and it gives me some playing room to cut the spring for those adjustments.

1107151436.jpg

NOTE: The other spring in the picture is a stock Grand Prix spring.

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The Grand Prix front coil springs have the same upper and lower pigtail style end diameter, so the W-body's upper strut mounts were a starting point in finding an upper strut mount swap... Unfortunately, the mounting surface is not completely flat like in my Eldorado. To use them would require a custom built shim to even out pressure on the upper bearing surface... So my search continued .

Then, I found an early 90's Deville. Their conical spring is inverted resulting in an upper mount with the same diameter as most 94 and newer Cadillacs. The mounting surface is flat and there are caster adjustment slots, meaning that the mount is designed to operate with some variability in its angle.

This means that I can use the smaller diameter to reposition the mounting location for positive caster and negative camber gains.

Of course, to swap in different upper strut mounts, new holes will have to be drilled in the strut towers and then slotted to provide any desired adjustability. When I tackle this step, I will include pictures.

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This diameter upper strut mount would allow the use of W-body lowering springs since the Grand Prix GTP cars have a similar front end weight. However, I didn't find exactly what I was looking for in spring rates and drop amounts. There is an inexpensive 450 lb./ inch variable spring, but it advertises a 1.7" drop. I don't want to drop that far since my racing wheel/tire combo will completely fill the front fender wells and with my car being slightly heavier, the drop might yield 2".

As far as suspension geometry, I would have negative results from that much of a drop due to the change of lower control arm that would result.. I am still trying to confirm that I can raise my engine cradle 1.5" my deleting the vibration spacers and thereby offsetting up to a 1.5" maximum drop . However a 1" drop is my goal.

NOTE 1: Grand Prix owners should also be able to use this Thunderbird front spring swap.

NOTE 2: my research suggests that stock strut valving can handle up to 450 lb. / inch rates but with linear rate springs, the lifespan will be severely effected. Variable rate springs will last much longer and are well within the acceptable range for better aftermarket brands like KYB AGX.

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Like W-bodys, these E-body strut front ends leave a lot to be desired. If budget and time would allow, I would swap in the front suspension from an AWD CTS because they have an upper A-Arm and can gain negative camber when cornering.... Maybe that will be a future upgrade... For now, I must operate under the old autocross racer's observation that "any suspension is a good racing suspension as long as you don't let it move."

My key to better handling here is:

1, Limiting lean

2. Limiting dive

3. Limiting adverse geometry changes

4. Adding as much camber as possible

5. Finding and adding the right amount of negative camber

6. Creative responsive and precision steering

If I do all of those things, then the excellent REAR suspension can do its job unhindered.

I must address the ball joints and A-Arm bushings next, but I also can't wait too long before replacing the front hubs/bearings.

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Energy Suspension of San Clemente, CA sells polyurethane bushings for street and off-road suspension upgrades, including custom and generic parts.

http://www.energysuspension.com/

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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Thank you, Jim. I didn't know they did custom fabrication. I only found one company that makes and stocks polyurethane bushings for this particular LCA and that's at: https://www.polycadbushings.com

I ordered a set from them even though I thought the price was twice what it should be.

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This is what their polyurethane front LCA bushings look like.

(Stock photo from website)

s141019720512250672_p3_i1_w640.jpeg

These LCA's have the 97' up design where one bushing is horizontal and the leading bushing is vertical.

Although this design is advantageous is reducing front bushing stress during aggressive driving conditions, it's not the preferred design when using poly bushings because LCA movement depends upon bushing flex which is what the polyurethane resists. The result is an LCA that is always fighting to be level. In a small way, it gives the same effect as a stabilizer bar. However, in time, these poly bushings can experience sudden failure as they tear.

Moog has created a solution by making a metal vertical "ball joint" bushing that acts and wears just like the ball joint on the LCA.... of course they don't make them for my car.... But I am trying to find a swap.... And I have put in a request to Moog to start making them for this application....... I'll let you know how that works out -lol.

ms501090_6.jpg

I was sceptical of the design at first, but upon close examination, the only change I would make is the way the ball joint mounts. Being bolted to the end if the arm like that creates the weakest part of the structure.

I think this arm is strong enough that I could mount a second stabilizer bar if I so desired.

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If I choose to add a second front bar, it would be like this one; notice that it mounts to the LCA with a 45 degree bushing instead of an end link.

Since I'm not going to lower the car much, I could mount the bar on the bottom of the frame and bottom of the LCA's with minimal ground clearance loss. Also, the 45 degree angle closely matches the angle of the "lateral support" bar section which would allow me bolt through it where it crosses through the square tube section.

_3-1.jpg

I did some measuring and a Lumina stabilizer bar would be the right length.

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This picture that was taken before I connected the end links. It shows the area where my stabilizer bar's efficiency can be dramatically improved.

1028150151-1.jpg

I can drill an alternate mounting hole in the bar on the flat part of the sway bar arm about an inch or so away from the stock mounting position. This will reduce the amount of torsional leverage the arm has on the bar.

I don't have the specifications or formula for this bar to determine the efficiency gain. However, my research shows cars that have performance bars with two or three mounting holes ("adjustable sway bar") gain anywhere from 20-60% bar stiffness per hole. It all depends on bar diameter, arm length, and distance between holes.

If I gain enough with this modification, I won't try adding a second front sway bar.

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I have to make 2,000 miles worth of road trips in addition to my 50 mile per day drive ; I can't wait any longer to replace the ball joints. I'm chewing up the front tires quickly. I hate not having the bushings already.

WOW! These front bushings are shot. I don't want to put these LCA's back on, but I have no choice.

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The ball joints I ordered did not arrive with the matching blue polyurethane boots and I don't have time to send them back for an exchange.

1210150421-1.jpg

I did put one quick coat of paint on the LCA's. The white balance was off, this is the same Red as my other suspension mods.

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