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Everything posted by CadVetteStang

  1. Changing front coil springs: I had to cut the front coils two more times to get the front ride height down far enough. I liked the look until I added the strut tower brace plates, because they picked the front back up a little. I could live with the look, but the ride was VERY, VERY firm. I could not cut the springs any more, because I already didn't have to use a spring compressor to install them and they were almost too short... Well, they settled just a bit and that was enough to allow slack up top when the suspension fully extended.... The result was trashed upper strut bearings. I or
  2. I put 2,000 miles on the car and after evaluating the suspension, I'm fixing a few bugs and making an improvement including: 1. Changing front springs 2. Changing front sway bar end links 3. Changing the front lower control arms's vertical bushings I'll cover each in its own post with more details.
  3. 18X9 in the front would be an easy fix for fitment issues. And 245/45's would have the same rolling diameter as the 275/40's in the back. But this has never been about what's easy. -LOL. 18X9.5 wheels and 255MM wide tires have always been my minimums for this build. 18x10 wheels with 275-285MM wide tires have always been my goals.
  4. I had them take many pictures of the repair job. I want to document everything. But I'm waiting on the pictures. It's the same repair done by dealerships. They bought all of the tooling from one that went out of business 15 years ago. Course thread inserts and over-sized bolts. Also the improved gasket set to correct the factory defective ones. $2400 for the job and it includes a new water pump. I had some extra work done. More on that when I get pictures.
  5. Alignment: CASTER: I decided to go with the maximum amount of positive caster possible. CAMBER: I decided that one degree negative on all four wheels was the best starting point for testing and may be the best compromise on handling VS. tire wear. Toe: with these custom settings, I would take the recommendation of the alignmen specialist who has 25 years of experience and has aligned race cars. Knowing that I was going to have to drive 50 miles from the engine shop to the alignment shop, I spent many hours with a tape measure and a level to get the initial eyeball al
  6. The dual catalytic converters were installed today. I used one spark plug anti-fouler as a backspacing socket for the rear oxygen sensor to pull the stem out of the exhaust gas flow. That will reduce turbulence as well as reduce the chances that the high flow cats will cause a trouble code.
  7. Here is a before and after look at the exhaust system so far. I will be getting the dual cats and H-pipe installed shortly.
  8. I had to leave my car with Pete and go to work. This had been an 8 hour installation so far. This picture was taken the next morning at the alignment shop.
  9. I provided my own mufflers, red polyurethane hangers, and angle cut resonator tips, but Discount Muffler also has a selection in stock.
  10. The left section of 3" pipe was created as one piece from the up-size point to where it would connect with the muffler. Note: my goal is to open up enough space between the mufflers that I can build an under-trunk battery relocation box to help with the front-to-rear weight ratio. I also wamt the mufflers visible under the bumper like they are in late Mustangs. We had to mount them at a slight angle, however, because of the plastic charcoal canister behind the left rear wheel well.
  11. Then the left pipe was also bent as one piece and placed. Care was taken to keep the pipe away from the plastic gas tank.
  12. After the necessary clearance was made with a hammer and reciprocating saw, Pete bent and placed the right pipe as one piece from the flex pipe all the way to the up-size point where the system will continue with 3" pipe for the purpose of creating a deeper bass note.
  13. Normally, this would be the point during installation where you would place the dual cats and the ballance tube in whatever location best fits the available space. The final location of the cats may depend if you want your ballance tube to be an X-pipe or H- pipe configuration. NOTE: Use an X-pipe if you want a higher pitched exotic sounding exhaust note with the benifit of the horsepower gains in the upper RPM range.. Use an H-pipe if you prefer a deeper tone with more of an American hotrod sound and want to place the power gains at the lower RPM range. I was not expecting to d
  14. Seems like an odd angle at first, but when the other side gets bolted up, the difficulty level is apparent
  15. It took 3 hours of work to design a solution for mounting the left pipe. Pete designed a slip-over, clamp-on, downpipe with flange to work around the stock location and angle of the right pipe. He then had his assistant (pictured) finish it and prep it for installation.
  16. The biggest problem with true dual exhaust on a Northstar car is that the left side of the Y-pipe locates the right side which mounts with a slip-over pinch flange.. When you remove it, there is nothing to mount the left downpipe to and no room to weld without lowering the engine cradle. I was very glad that Pete of Discount Muffler has 30 years of experience and has built headers.
  17. This is why the factory Y-pipe is so restrictive. The left pipe (2" crossover) protrudes into the right 2.5" pipe to form the "Y". There is turbulence as well as flow restriction which compounds the problem.
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