NCCaddy Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 '94 STS w/ 154k. It sound as if I'm riding on "rough pavement" all the time (like a loud whirring noise). It quiets down if I'm traveling a slight curve. The tires shoud be fine w/ about 9k on them. I'm not mechanically inclined -- I just like to have some idea what it might be before taking it to my mechanic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Could be a CV joint. Probably the mechanic will want to change the whole axle rather than rebuild/repack a single joint. If that is the problem, figure $150 for the axle plus labor, so $225-250. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 It sounds to me like a wheel bearing. That would explain it subsiding on a curve. I don't THINK a '94 STS has any universal joints, but I could be mistaken. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98sts Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 I have the same problem, but with these differences. 1998 STS, 88Kmiles. New Michelin tires, inflated properly. Whirring noise starts at 55-60 mph, stops above 75mph. Sounds like possibly wind noise, entering body from somewhere, or road noise, but too vague to pinpoint. Sidebar-(Years ago, had a new 1989 Honda Accord. Same problem, whirring noise above certain speed. No dealer could pinpoint cause, most said they could not test above 55 mph, insurance would not cover them. A mechanic from Honda factory, training in the US, happened to be at a dealer one day and overheard problem. He pinpointed problem to windshield not being sealed correctly, and showed dealer it was an ongoing problem with new Accords.) If anyone has definitive answers, please acnowledge. Have scoured all over car to find answer...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCCaddy Posted February 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 thanks to all for the replies -- any idea on ballpark of replacing bearing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 thanks to all for the replies -- any idea on ballpark of replacing bearing? Check this thread: http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=380 Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NCCaddy Posted February 12, 2004 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 jadcock --thanks again! It's probably my left bearing. Wish I would've found this site about 75k earlier. It just helps having some idea of the problem before walking into the Lion's Den. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 It sounds to me like a wheel bearing. That would explain it subsiding on a curve. I don't THINK a '94 STS has any universal joints, but I could be mistaken. Oh wait, I looked back in the archive and I should have said CV joint, not u-joint, so I changed my answer. Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98Concours Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Bruce, is that your final answer? LOL Jeff 98 Concours 90 Seville 04 Corvette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 thanks to all for the replies -- any idea on ballpark of replacing bearing? Last one I did (about 4 yrs ago) the part was about $200 from Napa. Took me about :45 to do the job. Shouldn't be more than an hour labor at the most. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonA Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Everytime I have a front wheel off, I look at that large 34mm nut and the thing just looks rusted on there...like it'd be impossible to get off. But apparently the job is pretty simple huh? Are you guys doing this with common garage tools (no air)? I'll try to tackle the job myself based on you guys' experiences if (no, when; bearings don't last forever) I have the same problem. Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond) "When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pushinthelac Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Yeah jadjock hit the nail on the head. It should be the wheel bearing. I recently had to get mine repaired and it is a good chunk of change. it'll probably run you anywhere from $200-250. The problem will only get worse if you do not get it fixed, and you will notice it by the noise getting louder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 12, 2004 Report Share Posted February 12, 2004 Everytime I have a front wheel off, I look at that large 34mm nut and the thing just looks rusted on there...like it'd be impossible to get off. But apparently the job is pretty simple huh? Are you guys doing this with common garage tools (no air)? I'll try to tackle the job myself based on you guys' experiences if (no, when; bearings don't last forever) I have the same problem. Jason, When I did mine I went at it having never done one before and was amazed at how fast it went. You may not have the same experience. I seem to recall some one recently having a lot of trouble getting the hub off the spindle. I just used a large gear puller and it came right off. I have shop air but it is not needed. I assume you have a shop manual? You will see it requires a "special tool". All that is needed is a BIG long screwdriver/tire iron/crow bar or something on that order to wedge in front of the cv joint I believe, to keep from pulling the axle out of the trans. You'll see what I mean. The shop manual wasn't too clear as I recall but when I started on it, it became pretty apparent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 Wheel bearing sounds about right. Had that same experience with my '83 Chevy Celebrity. Once the wheel bearings were changed, it was as quiet as a mouse on the road. I also experienced "shudder and vibration" on the road with my '83 Chevy Celebrity only while changing lanes and found out that my steering rack was gone so I had that replaced and everything was perfect again. '83 Chevy Celebrity - 193,000 miles and still going. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted February 13, 2004 Report Share Posted February 13, 2004 OK, although it could be a cv joint, just jack it up, turn the wheel fully in the outboard direction (relative to the side you are on) and turn the wheels 360 degrees while inspecting the cv boots (this is the front, right?). If they are ok (and probably are) then the cv joints are likely ok and it is the wheel bearing in which case you will need to replace the wheel hub bearing assy. I just did this and the part was ~$160 at pep boys (95 etc 135k). Luckily I guessed the correct side. After spending hrs, with trips back and forth to h/w stores and auto part stores to figure out the correct size tools needed, I posted my findings on this board, but it was in December 03 and those posts seem to have been lost to posterity. (Not complaining, Bruce!). So, once again, and from memory (after having killed many brain cells since then), for those who need to do this .... this is what you need. 10MM allen wrench for the 2 brake caliper bolts 34MM hub socket (pep boys has them for 'bout 10 bucks). Regular sockets are not deep enough. t-55 torx for the 3 bolts holding the thing together. You will want at least 1/2 in drive and something for leverage, they are VERY tight! With those bolts removed, the hub is 'detached', but will not just fall into your hands. I rented a hub assy puller (the first place gave me the wrong type of puller, and it was inadequate) and even with the correct tool it was very tight. This type of puller bolts to the wheel lug nuts and the center as you would expect, screws against the axle, anything less would not have worked. One person replied that he used a generic puller and a 'blue tipped wrench' (fortunately, he explained that was propane torch - first I had heard of that term!). So there seems to be some range of difficulty with the final release of the hub, but thats it. The axle will try to escape outbound, but that not too difficult to deal with. Putting it back together is quick and easy. So, hope this helps anyone who is going to attempt this repair. Sure would have helped me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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