adallak Posted December 4, 2011 Report Share Posted December 4, 2011 A bad ICM would set P012 code. So if the ICM is bad, when cranking, it would detect that there is a failure on that component, and set a current code? I understood they are only reliable when the engine is running with a fault - and that cranking doesn't set some codes. As far as I remember, if engine is cranking for some time, but does not fire up, "No distributor signal" P (E) 012 code is set. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 A bad ICM would set P012 code. So if the ICM is bad, when cranking, it would detect that there is a failure on that component, and set a current code? I understood they are only reliable when the engine is running with a fault - and that cranking doesn't set some codes. As far as I remember, if engine is cranking for some time, but does not fire up, "No distributor signal" P (E) 012 code is set. I had a similar problem couple years ago. Car died in a drive-up and had to have it towed home. It would turn over but not fire, had the "no distributor signal", turned out I had to replace the distributor. I replaced the ICM but didn't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted December 5, 2011 Report Share Posted December 5, 2011 OK, you need to pull the distributor cap and take a look at it for cracks, or carbon tracking, especially between the center tower and one of the cylinders. Look at the rotor to make sure it looks ok, make sure it is not burned through to metal, I have been spark actually find its way through rotors. Take a plug wire off a spark plug, let is hang next to metal, but NOT near any electronics, and have someone crank the engine briefly. Is there spark? Look for spark to make sure the that the coil is putting out. STAY AWAY from it, don't hold the wire let it hang, it will JOLT you. There is a connector at the distributor make sure it is connected solidly. Do you smell fuel? Check the INJ (INJECTOR) fuses to make sure they are not blown or corroded How long did your mechanic inspect this, what was his findings? how many miles on this engine? What is the history when was it run last? How is the fuel?, is it old? I at first replaced the cap and rotor (both were worn), then the ICM. Turned out the distributor was the culprit. Picked up a used one pretty cheap. Good luck Big Guy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAUL T Posted December 9, 2011 Report Share Posted December 9, 2011 Your mechanic said that you had good fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator? Check the fuel pressure regulator before you do anything else. Pull the vacuum hose off the nipple of the FPR. Turn the key on (engine off) to pressurize the system, check the nipple to see if gas is spewing out it. If there is gas present replace the FPR, and your problem will be fixed. If no gas put the vacuum hose back on and go to the distributor and make sure all the wires are plugged in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmalkw Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Ok everybody. So I finally got the chance to take the car to a dealer. And they told me my computer is fried! They said someone did a botched wiring job with a radio previously, and it fried my computer in the car. When I bought the car, there was wires hanging from when the previous owner took the radio out. But I never thought that could be the problem. I just had the ignition wires changed, and the distributor cap replaced. So now they want to charge me an additional 400 to replace my computer. They also said it would be cheaper to buy a used one. I'm kida worried that the new one will have problems too. Anyone ever had that happen? Ever had your computer blow out on you and your car wouldn't start?? The good thing about it id he guranteed me this was the problem, and would get the car started. So no more guessing games. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 Something does not sound right with the dealer's diagnosis. The ECM is a very durable device and typically does not fail. I do not understand how a botched radio install could damage the engine control module. The car was running when you bought it and then quit? If it were me, I would have them put the diagnosis in writing with the stipulation that if that does not fix the problem, you are not responsible for payment. If they will not agree, they are just throwing parts at the problem at your expense. Have you checked for diagnostic codes? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmalkw Posted December 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 The car was not running when I bought it. And I took it to a cadillac dealer with a good reputable name. They also gave me a writin gurantee that the diagnosis is correct, and would fix the problem. The wiring on the car was pretty bad before the previous mechanic changed the disributor cap. That is the reasoni took it to cadillac. Whoever was working on the car before did a sloppy job. There were scews missing, wires everywhere and a few obvious things out of place. So I'm sure there were things out of place that I could not recognize myself. But I'm confident in the dealer, and the price is not that bad from what I have been researching. Thanks for the concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted December 16, 2011 Report Share Posted December 16, 2011 I would ask them if they are going to repair the fault that damaged the computer. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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