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I have a 2000 DeVille that heat/ac will only blow through defrost vent and feet vents in front. I have looked at a couple of forums on here but have read about several different nomenclatures for the actuators and varied locations of the area I need to look for to replace the part. I talked to a dealership yesterday and parts guy said there are several actuators and would need to diagnose to determine which one. I had purchased a blend door actuator based upon the comments from another mechanic, but worried that it is not the right thing. Can anyone tell me where to find location and diagrams as well as specific part that may be needed. I want to find an after market part as the lowest price Caddie part is $300.

I love the ride of my Caddie. I bought it used almost three years ago and while I love the ride it is a piece of junk. It has been well maintained, but in past 3 years I have replace 3 wheel bearings, rebuilt the tranny at 140,000 and engine at 141,000. And nothing is cheap and when it comes to the engine no one wants to touch and probably shouldn't. The dealer said, when asked about replacing leaking head gasket, that it would cost $3500 and would recommend a Jasper replacement since the repair does not usually last long. THIS IS AMERICA'S BEST?????????

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Check the codes and we can determine which actuator is not doing its job

Look down on this posting, I think I have the directions on how to find and download the codes from your on board diagnostic system

Post the codes here and we can help, I changed one on my 96, easy job if its reasonably accessible

I think I paid about $25 for the actuator

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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The pre-2000 Devilles used a vacuum actuator to control the vent outlet location. I am not sure if the 2000+ Devilles use a vacuum or electric system - I would need to check the shop manual but my point is your issue could be something as simple as a vacuum leak... If it is a dealership working on the car, they should have the expertise to diagnose and repair the problem properly without throwing parts at it.

Here we go again..... 11 year old car that someone expects to be new... Why was the trans. rebuilt? What required the engine to be "rebuilt"? The reason some dealer repairs do not last is the technicians do not follow the proper repair procedure. Jasper uses the factory approved inserts just like the dealerships. The difference is Jasper probably follows the proper procedure when installing them rather than freehanding the repair so they can get the job done faster...

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Thanks KHE for the input on the AC questions. However, I take a little offense to the "Here we go again..... 11 year old car that someone expects to be new" comment. I bought it three years ago with 92,000 miles on it. I have the maintenance records and it was well taken care of. I have taken better car of this car than I have any in my life because I wanted to keep it for a long time. Since purchasing my first car purchase 34 years ago, I have never had so much trouble from a vehicle with the mileage I have this one. Yes I question the quality of this car. Why was the trans. rebuilt? I noticed a change in preformance, i.e gas mileage and elevate RPMs so I took to a shop and got diagnostic, and code showed 4th gear ratio out of range. I got it fixed at a independent shop that does rebuilds for local GM dealers. He indicated that it was worn out, not an uncommon problem apparently. What required the engine to be "rebuilt"? It had a head gasket leak, as in burning coolant. I actually opted after exploring costs and options, I purchased a salvage engine with 69K on it with a lifetime warranty at a reasonable price. I bought this car because I believed that Cadillac made a good product and it would last and be fairly free of major mechanical problems for several years. Yeah it these break downs happened at 140k but I have never had any car out of the dozen or so I have owned have major problems anywhere near that mileage. I did a ring job on a Toyota Corolla that had about 200,000 in 94 and it was nearly pristine, I did the work my self, it ran perfectly until I move to a larger vehicle a couple years later, then sold it. I have every right to be disappointed even if you are a believer. I do not have unreasonable expectations, only realistic ones based upon my vehicle ownership.

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Check the codes and we can determine which actuator is not doing its job

Look down on this posting, I think I have the directions on how to find and download the codes from your on board diagnostic system

Post the codes here and we can help, I changed one on my 96, easy job if its reasonably accessible

I think I paid about $25 for the actuator

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Body...

I think the codes that I have that pertain to this are under IPM Codes and are B0249, B0429? (may point to another issue), and B0429. Any thoughts on those?

Thanks,

Larry

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B0249 - Heater/Defrost/AC Door Range Error

B0408 - Temperature Control #1 (Main/Front) Circuit Malfunction

B0409 - Air Mix Door #1 Range Error

B0414 - Air Temperature/Mode Door Actuator Malfunction

B0418 - HVAC Actuator Circuit

B0419 - Air Mix Door #2 Range Error

B0423 - Air Mix Door #2 Inoperative Error

B0424 - Air Temperature/Mode Door Actuator Malfunction

B0428 - Air Mix Door #3 Inoperative Error

B0429 - Temperature Control #3 Rear Circuit Range/Performance

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Okay,so I have found three actuators. I have disconnected all three attempting to see if the clicking stops, but it does not. In another forum I read this clicking is an indicator that an actuator is bad. Any suggestions at what else I might look at, that might be keeping it from sending air to main vents? Just need to cool air on me not the windshield. Help.

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How did you disconnect them? If you can't control the mode and you hear clicking, it almost has to be a stripped gear in the mode door actuator.

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I simply pulled the plug on each of the actuators at separate times. It sounds like the clicking is toward the top of the heater box. Will I have to remover entire center section of dash to get to the gear?

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Not sure exactly what will have to be removed, but I would recommend a FSM so you know where all the hidden bolts are and how to get at them.

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