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A TWIN TURBO NORTHSTAR!!


eldoman95

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it's not designed for the car :) You could have a turbo custom designed easily, but then you need to do a lot of internal modifications to the heads /intake plus you need a new computer controller ... If you have $10k to spend, i can hook you up with what you need :>

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i just got a new computer ordered the other day. as well as a chrome dipped billet grille :D as far as the heads and cam, i went to that site you mentioned mechtech-ms.com, they have that crap there. i gotta call for prices befor i consider doing that. but who do you know that can design a custom turbo kit for my el dawg?

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The computers are like $1200-5000 for complete enging menagement. What type of 'new computer' did you get? Your 95 might even be reprogrammable, although my 99 isn't.. still the aftermarket computers can make more power because they are almost infinitely tunable. a local custom fabrication shop can make a turbo system for you

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i used wrong "lingo", i didnt get new computer yet an aftermarket computer chip from fastchips.com i dont think i will need to tune it much considering they specialize in GM cars and trucks. as far as a local fabrication shop im in the searching process. thanx. anything i should ask about when looking for a custom turbo kit? i cant decide what to do next.

1. high stall torque convertor at 2900 rpm

2. aftermarket pistons and cams

3. or a turbo kit.

i think a turbo kit because i love that sound of the blow off valves going

PIIIISSSSSSSSSSSS RRRRRRRRRMMMMMMMMM PIIIIIIIISSSSSSSSS

it just sounds cool when someone has that.

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If you did maybe 5-6 PSI turbo the internals should be ok.. they are very strong straight from the factory. Of course it will decrease the life expectancy of the engine instead of 300k miles you might get 150 out of it befoire you need to replace some things but that's normal. If you take the engine out of the car you might as well 'rebuild' everything. ALso, i seriously doubt anything you can do with a 'chip' will be able to tune the car for nitrous or forced induction. You need a computer designed to deal with it. I've spent a LOT of time researching this and to get the whole thing done properly will be to the tune of at least $16k which is insanely high :> I'm thinking of just 'rebuilding' the engine with some better stuff and making custom headers and forgetting the turbo it just costs too much. Your best bet if you want to go fast every once in a while is with nitrous.. build the engine up a little, get an aftermarket computer controller and then put a decent size no2 shot on it.

n/a we can get the northstar a little over 400HP properly tuned so that's probaly the direction i'm going, although even 400HP in a car as heavy as mine won't be real fast

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ahah well yea of course :) It's going to be difficult to do it while still being on the caddy but that's my goal anyway.. at the least I want the best I can push out of the engine N/A so i'm looking at intake,cams/headwork and a computer at the least. then some tranny mods and exhaust work

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ahah well yea of course :) It's going to be difficult to do it while still being on the caddy but that's my goal anyway.. at the least I want the best I can push out of the engine N/A so i'm looking at intake,cams/headwork and a computer at the least. then some tranny mods and exhaust work

I think it's a great idea, and I'll be the first one lined up to buy the plans if you do figure out how to do it.

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Oh there's no 'IF".. I WILL figure out how to do it, it's just a matter of money. I wish it was as easy as starting a pool of $ fund on this board for me to use to test various things and see what the outcome is.. but the whole thing is limited to $.. I have to buy things and change things to test it so until i save up enough $ then i'm at a standstill here :> One of the first things I want to do is get the computer, even with a stock engine and setup it will make more power because it can be tuned

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I'm not going to conquer the cars computer, i'm going to put in a new computer just to run the engine. problem is hooking it all up so that the regular computer doesn't go nuts but ill figure all that out from the wiring diagrams as soon as i find a replacement computer with enough inputs and outputs and programability. :> Would anyone be interested in donating to the cause? I'll test various things and report when i get something that works. :>

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Probably the biggest problem there is going to be when you add the turbo is the computer not compensating for it. But there is a way to get around that without breaking the bank.

You might consider using a completely programmable fuel injection system called Megasquirt. For more information, do a google search.

Here are some sites:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/megasquirt.html

This site has all the design and build information of the Megasquirt.

http://www.msefi.com/

This is a great support site for the Megasquirt computer, for installation and tuning.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/megasquirt/

This is the Yahoo Forum for the Megasquirt computer.

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Just a note on that converter. If you get a converter that stalls that high, it will never really be locked up on the road. Don't you want a converter that stalls lower than your cruise RPM? If it doesn't stall until 2900 RPM, you'll be running down the road at 70 or 80 mph with a converter that's in a constant state of slip, generating tons of heat and very poor gas mileage.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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jadcock- that's what the tcc is for :)

The problem with the megasquirt thing is that it only controls fuel delivery.... then what happens is the computer will re-compensate for it screw you up again.. you have to remove the control completely from the stock unit or it will 'learn' the modifications you made and try to put it back to factory settings again........ which is bad. that's the main problem i'm running in to.. on earlier systems in the late 80's and early 90's it wasn't as sophisticated and you could get away with fooling the computer into thinking it was doing something it wasn't but you can't on the newer vehicles.

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jadcock- that's what the tcc is for :)

Most years of the 4T80-E don't use a TCC -- they use a VCC, a Viscous Converter Clutch. I don't know if this makes a difference on the design of the actual converter, though. Mark would know -- he has a high-stall converter on his '99. Do you have to buy one made specifically for use with a VCC? If so, I would assume availability would be very limited... I ASSumed that any performance converter you got wouldn't be VCC-enabled -- meaning it would run unlocked all the time. Maybe that's not the case?

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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You can buy one with or without.... it's just more expensive to get one with the TCC (or VCC) same thing really just difference in the way it operates slightly. You could run the stock converter unlocked all the time by unplugging the wire :> I'd rather pay extra to have it enabled..... I did it on one of my older cars.. I don't even remember which one it was lol but it was like having a 5th gear almost due to the stall difference

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I installed a new 3000 RPM conveter when I had the motor out for headgaskets. It was a Yank, it really woke the car up on the low end. The 3K works good but if I were to do another I would try a 3,300 - 3,500. That was the biggest bang for the buck I would say. I also changed cam timing to help in mid-range.

Dennis
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Dloch,

I agree. I would go with about 3500 as initially I was worried about drivability, but you would never know I changed anything on mine unless you really punch it. You're right it sure does wake it up and I certainly would have given up a little more for the higher stall. Oh well, hindsight is always 20/20.

MARK 99STS

TURBOCHARGED

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so you guys think its ok to put stall as high as 3500? is it still everyday driveable or do you always have to punch the pedal to get responce? i dont know a whole lot about it but im getting it done anyway. :huh: what would be the differance between 2800 stall and 3500. is it faster taking off, slower? or is it just the high end faster? enlighten the ignorant.

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The effect on gas mileage will depend on how you drive the car. On the open road it will have no effect at all. In the city I haven't noticed anything earth shattering. You will use more fuel because you will certainly like the way it pulls, especially when you get a short up shift into second and you lay on it enough not to get it to down shift. I have sort of learned to roll into the throttle just after the upshift.

If you drive the normally the engine rev's a little higher to get the car mving away from a light. After it's moving you can't really tell unless you roll into the throttle at a low speed and the trans doesn't downshift, the tach will hang right at 3,000 rpm. Thas just a little bit low of where the peak torque is, well atleast on mine it is. As I said I changed my cam timing fro more mid-range and you can certainly feel it when the power comes on.

If you try rolling into the throttle after a low 1st to 2nd upshift with the standard converter the car feels like it has fallen on it's face until you get some rpm up and get the motor into it's power band. With the looser converter it helps get the motor into what I call the sweet spot or the area of the torque curve where you get the best acceleration.

If you punch from a dead stop the motor flashes to about 3,200 or so at which point you light up the tires and the traction control takes over. If you try to brake torque it the will flash up and then the computer will pull it back down so you can't hurt the drivetrain.

While this modification isn't cheap it is effective. I believe I paid $ 850.00 for a new converter, but as I said I had the motor out already so I figured what the heck.

One thing Guru did mention to me was this, if you drive up and down hills or tow anything you will want to add another trans cooler and change the trans fuid in a shorter interval. In other words to expect to fluid to last 100K, which I wouldn't.

So.... try it you'll like it.

By the way, this is a VCC converter and it does lock-up. If you could trick the computer you could lock it up under power in other words with you foot flat on the floor. I can do that with the converter in my Impala SS as well, it's a Precision Industries 3K also.

Dennis
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