joeb Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I adjusted my camber and toe and now have a slight rattle in the front. I have a very slightly loose drivers wheel bearing and I found out the passenger side inner tie rod is loose. I have done inner tierods on older GM FWD cars and replaced a rack before. I had to lower rear of subframe to get rack out. I see the rack is above the rear of the subframe. not sure if access is good or bad. anyone here attempt this job before? I assume use the supersize tierod socket you can rent at most stores? I had the motor out 3yrs ago. sure would have been easy to change the rack then. steering seems knotchy now. kinda twitchy on turns. I bet a new rack would make it feel nice. and they usually come with the inner tierods. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 If I recall, Regis had his rack replaced. Ill do a search, I think it came out through the left front wheel well. Its funny, someone recently asked, "What do I replace/refurbish when I drop my carriage to timesert my engine", and one of the items I suggested was "hows the rack and associated hoses". I believe you can also detach the rack from the steering shaft and drop the rear of the carriage to gain the room you need Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted October 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 i have used the tierod socket before. works quite well. reaching up to push the bellows out of the way is awkward and putting the bellows clamp back on is tight. they use one time band clamps. most parts stores have them. i bought a car and both inner tierods were loose. first thing i did was change them. hated steering wheel looseness/rattle. yes i think a new rack would be nice but i don't really want to do that job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Oh, I understood from your last sentance that you wanted to replace the rack Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted October 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2010 did tierod. took 1hr. used socket. pretty easy. i took off driver wheel this weekend to check the wheel bearing. was curious to see if the flange bolts were torx? yes, T55. put wheel back on and now i get a click/snap sound from wheel area when i accelerate and stop. click, click, snap. what the heck did i do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted October 23, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 was told it could be caliper not torqued right. 1 bolt seemed kinda tight going on. my car vintage does not have caliper bracket. bolt goes thru caliper into knuckle. turns out 1 bolt thread is not good. got another bolt and threaded into knuckle by hand. seems to seat fine. put on caliper and torqued upper bolt to 68lbs. seemed ok. bottom bolt does not felt right. feels like it is starting to strip. its tight but i cannot hit 68lbs. there is a point where you stop turning bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 23, 2010 Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 was told it could be caliper not torqued right. 1 bolt seemed kinda tight going on. my car vintage does not have caliper bracket. bolt goes thru caliper into knuckle. turns out 1 bolt thread is not good. got another bolt and threaded into knuckle by hand. seems to seat fine. put on caliper and torqued upper bolt to 68lbs. seemed ok. bottom bolt does not felt right. feels like it is starting to strip. its tight but i cannot hit 68lbs. there is a point where you stop turning bolt. That does not sound good, you would need to replace the knuckle assembly, be careful with this Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockfangd Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 have seen this before. I have done so many GMs that had overightened caliper slide bolts pull the threads on removal or strip upon overtightening, I would likely say the damage in your case was already done before you did the job, and yes the knicckle has to be replaced. Inner tie rod isnt too bad to do but you must make sure that the inner boot is secured fully and properly otherwise the position rod might come off or not work right GM FAN FOREVER Nice, clean, luxury= fine automobile Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted October 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 i have had car for 10yrs. i did last brake job. i do not overtighten bolts. usually the opposite. i need to replace wheel bearing so this might work out ok. i can get used knuckle with bearing for 50 at boneyard. who knows, used bearing might be tight and better than my current loose one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 If the bolt is loose (as you hinted), the constant side torsion from braking will damage the threads, if you don't already, use a torque wrench and torque all bolts to the spec cited in the FSM Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted October 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2010 thread has morphed into caliper issue. now i will add another point. after tierod install, i noticed the steering making a sound when turning wheel. just of center. i can hear a moan/groan from pump. if i turn slowly it does not make any sound. hard to drive and turn wheel slowly. lasted a few days and now it seems to be gone. i looked at electrical plug on rack when i did tierod but did not unplug it. i think that is for the magnasteer feature. i think it is a solenoid on rack that changes effort based on speed. i don't think it is variable, just easy or stiff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joeb Posted November 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2010 checked alignment. toe spec is 0 to 0.2 degrees. 1 tire was 0.1. the other was -0.2 how many turns of the tierod would i need to adjust it? not sure how many degress or partial degrees i would get with 1 full turn? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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