Loral Johnson Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 I replaced my failed AC COMPRESSOR WITH A USED ONE --THAT WAS WORKING AT THAT TIME ---"AND STILL WILL WORK WHEN HOT WIRED" When I replaced the compressor, I also replaced the orfice tube and accumulator (drier), NEW --- I replaced HIGH PRESSURE CUT OFF SWITCH and the LOW PRESSURE CUT OFF SWITCH IN THE LINES NEW, I did a vacumn on the system before pressurizing it.. I put the first can (12oz) of 134A and had to 'HOT WIRE THE COMPRESSOR'' to get to run..Because I couldn't clear codes in OBD 2 PCM When I got the first can in the system and started on the second can the ac lines between the orfice tube area and the EVAPORATOR frosted over lightly-- and also on the OUT side of the evaporator LINE to the DRIER -- as the 2nd can got emptied the lines stopped frosting over and the inside temperature would not get above 80 degrees inside the car on a therometer in the air duct.. I finished filling the system with part of the 3rd can and no change on inside temp. AFTER THE 3rd can the COMPRESSOR HIGH PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE in the end of the compressor dumped some of the 134a...AND CLOSED ITSELF.. still no change in the temp inside car... still 80 degrees on therometer ;;; with 100 degrees outside car and with 98 on car outside display. THE LOW SIDE PRESSURE READING stays high .. TELL ME THE REMEDY/S ----- PLEASE----- LORAL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott y Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 If you installed 3 cans of rerigerant you've got too much in the system...hence the lack of cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 Post your codes, that is where you need to start, How did you try to clear the codes, you said you could not clear them Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. LORAL ----- THANK YOU KHE... my reply ---- I did clear the code of AC COMPRESSOR OFF (ac1314) in diagnostics AFTER I REMOVED THE BAD COMPRESSOR AND REPLACED THE OTHER GOOD ONE..BEFORE I STARTED FILLING THE SYSTEM WITH 134A... The compressor would not turn on automatically - so I connected a wire from the positive side of the battery directly to the green wire at/ near the compressor connector of the black and green wire... it ran and I filled the system as I explained earlier... AC code 1315 still comes back on the dash instrument... I have probable damaged some circuits because the DIODE in the line at the ac connector will not read a resistance when i test it in either direction..and can't find one at auto stores--guess it is a dealer part only ...??????the AC system code oF AC1314 also did not clear after I got the system charged up...I tried to clear it using the procedure prescribed , it won't clear.... ??? what do I do now, and where do I start ?? The old orfice tube did have a small amount of debrie, but not excessive from the old compressor i removed.. I put 50-60 pounds of air pressure back thru the evaporator to back flush any thing that might have went thru the old orfice tube before i put the system back together..with a new orfice tube, a new accumulator, new HIGH PRESSURE CUT OFF SWITCH and also the LOW PRESSURE CUT OFF SWITCH ...and new relay in the engine compartment fuse section block area...checked all fuses , they are ok... I took out the DIODE in the compressor line and tried to get the compressor to come on and it still will not come on by the instrument panel switch in the dash... ?????? THANKS AGAIN....LORAL checked all fuses and relays Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 What failed on the original compressor? Was there any debris in the orifice tube? The system capacity is 2.0 lbs. Installing three 12 oz cans should not have caused an overpressure situation. You lose 1/2-1 oz of refrigerant each time you change cans and bleed the air from the lines. With that in mind, three cans should have been just about right. There shouldn't be a need to "Hot Wire" the compressor - Not sure how you're doing that but you can damage components of the system. Are there any codes stored in diagnostics? Sounds like you're monitoring the low side pressure only - you really need a manifold type gage set that connects to both the high and low pressure ports. Having the high side and low side readings is very helpful in diagnosing the system. LORAL----- thanks khe ---I replied to one of your replies to me just a few minutes ago on the trouble I have.... I'll add a few remarks to this on to help further.... When I first learned how to use the DASH CONTROL SWITCH MODULE to view, and clear the diagnostic codes, I only noticed the two codes of AC1314 that I've been told is low pressure in the AC SYSTEM .....And AC 1315 that is AC COMPRESSOR OFF..... I DO HAVE A MANIFOLD SET OF GUAGES AND SORRY THAT I DIDN'T RECORD MY PRESSURE READINGS ON BOTH SIDES ....I'LL DO THAT TOMORROW , MAYBE... thanks for your info....i'll get back with you again soon --- I'VE posted another set of information remarks in this forum yesterday, check them if you can find it on my ac problems... THANKS -- LORAL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Post your codes, that is where you need to start, How did you try to clear the codes, you said you could not clear them loral --- thanks to you BodybyFisher for your reply --- I agree with you I should have the first thing..just too frustrated to think straight about this matter.... HOWEVER I only had two codes on my dash board screen when I finally learned how to get into THE OBD2 code section by using the dash control module in ny car...I pulled codes from the enet on the cadillac information of OBD2 codes and found that they DID NOT SHOW the two codes that i found in my screen... I only found AC 1314 and AC1315 THAT I FOUND OUT ABOUT BY WORD OF MOUTH that means low AC PRESSURE SYSTEM AND AC COMPRESSOR OFF..... if you wish to follow this subject from me in the future on this forum please review my input replies to KHE as they have replied and I have already responded to their replies to me... I hope i CAN GET TTHIS PROBLEM RESOLVED SOON --- SURE HOT HERE NOW...IN ARKANSAS... iF AT ANYTIME YOU ARE FOLLOWING THIS LINK WITH KHE and me and you see something you would like to reply to please feel free to do so.... THANKS - LORAL . ANY and ALL HELP needed and appreciated ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 I NEED help to find where on the ENET I can get the ELECTRICAL WIRING DIGRAM SCHEMATIC FOR MY 96 CADILLAC, DEVILLE, V-8 air condition system and it's components ====ALSO I NEED the information about the testing procedures of those components in the system with an OHM / AC voltage values meter....... I think I may have shorted out my compressor wires somewhere in the system by hot wiring it / and maybe in a backward way since I mistakenly put the hot wire on the BLACK (Ground) side ILO the Positive side GREEN wire.. the compressor ran in both cases while hot wired... but will not run when I turn it on inside the car on the dash control module switch ... I already know I will have to put a new DIODE in the compressor wires near the compressor since it is bad now (checked bad with ohm meter)... I also need to know if the two AC PRESSURE SENSORS (HIGH AND LOW) BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE ORFICE VALVE LOCATION, ARE THE SENSORS THAT MAKES THE COMPRESSOR CYCLE ON AND OFF ? THANKS,, LORAL. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Your frustration is showing, have patience I merged your new thread stating with post #11 into your existing AC thread. It is important to keep related threads together for us to understand what is going on and it help members in the future with similar problems Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 If you reversed the polarities at your compressor it should not matter in my opinion, as long as the connector was removed, its an electro-magnet that pulles the clutch plate in, lets see what KHE says. The hotwiring was not necessary or proper as you now know Here is where you can get code descriptions http://myweb.accessu...90/dtcobd2.html Consider purchasing a factory service manual on ebay or at helminc.com I would recheck your codes I dont think its possible to get a 1314 and 1315 at the same time B1314 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Open Circuit B1315 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Short Circuit Explain how you determined the diode was bad. As you know, current will flow in one direction but not the other, correct?, so your ohm meter will have a reading in one direction, but not the other correct? Did you disconnect the connector when you 'hotwired' it or back probe it with 12volts? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 The diode is in the harness to prevent back EMF (voltage generated when current is removed from the clutch coil) from damaging other electronics in the system. If the diode is bad, you'll need to replace it. There should be a part no. on the diode (ie 1N4002). Once you have that, you can go to an electronics supply house and obtain a replacement. Check to make sure the temp sensors on the refrigerant lines are plugged in and the latches are engaged on the connector. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 If you reversed the polarities at your compressor it should not matter in my opinion, as long as the connector was removed, its an electro-magnet that pulles the clutch plate in, lets see what KHE says. The hotwiring was not necessary or proper as you now know Here is where you can get code descriptions http://myweb.accessu...90/dtcobd2.html Consider purchasing a factory service manual on ebay or at helminc.com I would recheck your codes I dont think its possible to get a 1314 and 1315 at the same time B1314 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Open Circuit B1315 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Short Circuit Explain how you determined the diode was bad. As you know, current will flow in one direction but not the other, correct?, so your ohm meter will have a reading in one direction, but not the other correct? Did you disconnect the connector when you 'hotwired' it or back probe it with 12volts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 If you reversed the polarities at your compressor it should not matter in my opinion, as long as the connector was removed, its an electro-magnet that pulles the clutch plate in, lets see what KHE says. The hotwiring was not necessary or proper as you now know Here is where you can get code descriptions http://myweb.accessu...90/dtcobd2.html Consider purchasing a factory service manual on ebay or at helminc.com I would recheck your codes I dont think its possible to get a 1314 and 1315 at the same time B1314 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Open Circuit B1315 - Evaporator Inlet Temp Sensor Short Circuit Explain how you determined the diode was bad. As you know, current will flow in one direction but not the other, correct?, so your ohm meter will have a reading in one direction, but not the other correct? Did you disconnect the connector when you 'hotwired' it or back probe it with 12volts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 ---LORAL -- BACK TO BODYBYFISHER ABOUT YOUR LAST REPLY TO ME ... THANKS -- I had driven my car about 50 miles this AM prior to reading your reply....put it in the shop to cool down to get back to it later.. I read your reply and used the url and downloaded the BODY CODES...ac1314 and ac1315 are on that list.. I went back to it this PM after reading reply and found the following info... The first thing i did was to put the guages on the system and the pressure reading on the low side was 45, the high side was 45 also.with engine off.....`then I pulled up the codes.. when I turned on the switch the dash displayed two warnings, A/C COMPRESSOR OFF and SERVICE A/C SYSTEM... I did NOT clear them with the reset button then .. I turned the key on and pushed the OFF and HIGH TEMP BUTTON.. and the display came on the screen and displayed PCM?...then NO PCM CODES, THEN NO IPC CODES, THEN AC CODE AC1312 HISTORY, THEN AC CODE AC1313 HISTORY, then AC CODE AC1314 current, THEN ac coce ac1315 history... no SDM CODES, NO TCS CODES, NO PZM CODES, NO IRC CODES, NO RFA CODES, --THEN BACK TO PCM ?... then I pushed the stop buton and turned key off... Then I started the car motor and turned on the ac ECON switch..temp set at 60 degrees..the compressor did NOT come on.. I hot wire jumped briefly to read system pressure on manifold guages..HIGH SIDE went up to 75 immediately and low side down to 0 (zero) .. I then took off the hot wire to compressor and both readings went back to 16 shortly and stayed.... I turned the car off and checked the codes again ... same readings as 1st time reading...now you know..... I removed the DIODE from the ac wires and check "Y" and "X" both -- each with the positive meter lead at one and negative meter lead at the other -- no resistance was indicated in each test --- must be bad ---? ? My next plan / without expert input/ is to REPLACE BOTH THE HIGH PRESSURE TEMPERATURE SWITCH AND THE LOW PRESSURE TEMPERATURE SWITCH AND REMOVE THE ORFICE TUBE AND CHECK IT FOR DEBRIE IF ANY AND START THE FILL SYSTEM ALL OVER AGAIN...SINCE THE SYSTEM WILL BE EMPTY THEN.. I appreciate your help ..... LORAL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 ---LORAL -- BACK TO BODYBYFISHER ABOUT YOUR LAST REPLY TO ME ... THANKS -- I had driven my car about 50 miles this AM prior to reading your reply....put it in the shop to cool down to get back to it later.. I read your reply and used the url and downloaded the BODY CODES...ac1314 and ac1315 are on that list.. I went back to it this PM after reading reply and found the following info... The first thing i did was to put the guages on the system and the pressure reading on the low side was 45, the high side was 45 also.with engine off.....`then I pulled up the codes.. when I turned on the switch the dash displayed two warnings, A/C COMPRESSOR OFF and SERVICE A/C SYSTEM... I did NOT clear them with the reset button then .. I turned the key on and pushed the OFF and HIGH TEMP BUTTON.. and the display came on the screen and displayed PCM?...then NO PCM CODES, THEN NO IPC CODES, THEN AC CODE AC1312 HISTORY, THEN AC CODE AC1313 HISTORY, then AC CODE AC1314 current, THEN ac coce ac1315 history... no SDM CODES, NO TCS CODES, NO PZM CODES, NO IRC CODES, NO RFA CODES, --THEN BACK TO PCM ?... then I pushed the stop buton and turned key off... Then I started the car motor and turned on the ac ECON switch..temp set at 60 degrees..the compressor did NOT come on.. I hot wire jumped briefly to read system pressure on manifold guages..HIGH SIDE went up to 75 immediately and low side down to 0 (zero) .. I then took off the hot wire to compressor and both readings went back to 16 shortly and stayed.... I turned the car off and checked the codes again ... same readings as 1st time reading...now you know..... I removed the DIODE from the ac wires and check "Y" and "X" both -- each with the positive meter lead at one and negative meter lead at the other -- no resistance was indicated in each test --- must be bad ---? ? My next plan / without expert input/ is to REPLACE BOTH THE HIGH PRESSURE TEMPERATURE SWITCH AND THE LOW PRESSURE TEMPERATURE SWITCH AND REMOVE THE ORFICE TUBE AND CHECK IT FOR DEBRIE IF ANY AND START THE FILL SYSTEM ALL OVER AGAIN...SINCE THE SYSTEM WILL BE EMPTY THEN.. I appreciate your help ..... LORAL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2010 The diode is in the harness to prevent back EMF (voltage generated when current is removed from the clutch coil) from damaging other electronics in the system. If the diode is bad, you'll need to replace it. There should be a part no. on the diode (ie 1N4002). Once you have that, you can go to an electronics supply house and obtain a replacement. Check to make sure the temp sensors on the refrigerant lines are plugged in and the latches are engaged on the connector. -----LORAL -- REPLY TO YOU--- THANKS AGAIN... i PROBABLY CAUSED THAT CODE BY UNHOOKING THAT SENSOR WIRE HOPING TO GET SOME KIND OF READING... aND THANKS FOR THE ADVICE ON WHERE TO FND THE CODES BEFORE ...AFTER READING ONE OF BOBYBYFISHER REPLIES TO ME I decided to try the URL he gave me to find codes and meanings and it was the same url you gave me...I must havwe overlooked the body codes section and this time i opened it up and downloaded 19 pages of information on body codes...thanks again check out my reply to bobybyfisher that i sent this pm and help me if you can also....thanks again;;.......LORAL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I also need to know if the two AC PRESSURE SENSORS (HIGH AND LOW) BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE ORFICE VALVE LOCATION They are located in the A/C line that runs across the firewall. High side temperature sensor is on the drivers side. Low side temperature sensor is on the passengers side and the orifice tube is in the coupler between them, nearer the low side sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loral Johnson Posted August 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 I also need to know if the two AC PRESSURE SENSORS (HIGH AND LOW) BETWEEN THE COMPRESSOR AND THE ORFICE VALVE LOCATION They are located in the A/C line that runs across the firewall. High side temperature sensor is on the drivers side. Low side temperature sensor is on the passengers side and the orifice tube is in the coupler between them, nearer the low side sensor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 18, 2010 Report Share Posted August 18, 2010 Why are members having difficulty using this interface all of a sudden? CLICK REPLY and type AFTER the Here is a schematic that details the location of the components, I have posted this MANY times a search of the archives would have FOUND it Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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