jrdjrd7 Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Got up this morning and my 95 STS wouldn't start. Completely dead. I know the battery is good. Ran great yesterday and have never had a problem starting it. Came home at lunch and tried my other set of keys thinking maybe the problem was with my keys. Wouldn't start. Then I turned the key so that the 'Monitoring Systems' message came on and it cycled through til I got the 'Monitored Systems OK' message. I then turned the key and the car started. Turned it off and it started again. Problem seems to be gone. Has anyone else experienced this or does anyone know what happened? Does it have to do with the security system? Thanks, John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Did you happen to move the gear selector during your failed attempts to start? The first things I would investigate as potential problem areas are the key and the park-neutral safety switch. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted July 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 It was in park when I tried to start it. When it wouldn't start I moved the shift lever to neutral and then back to park. Did this a couple of times. Didn't seem to do anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted July 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Forgot to ask, what is the park-neutral safety switch? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 I would check the cables, in particular positive one which connects the battery to the solenoid directly. Chances are the solenoid does not get enough ampers because of its and cables' age. That what mine is doing - had to put a jumper from the battery to the solenoid directly. Do you hear any click when you start? If you do (really weak one) - it's the solenoid or cables or both. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted July 26, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 There was no click, just silence. Everything else, the lights, radio, window, etc. worked, it just wouldn't start. The car has 58,000 miles on it (I just bought it with 55,000 miles), but I believe the battery is fairly new. It now starts just fine. That's why I'm wondering if the security system stopped the fuel or whatever it does to disable the car from starting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 good! but i am afraid it will act up again some day... <_> The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted July 26, 2004 Report Share Posted July 26, 2004 Forgot to ask, what is the park-neutral safety switch? Thanks A safety switch that opens the starter solenoid circuit when the gear selector is NOT in Park or Neutral. Prevents you from starting the engine with the transmission "in gear". Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franey Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 I noticed you were from TEXAS, which at this time of year has high heat , and high humidity, , more batteries fail in this type of condition than the winter. Since you do not know the age of the battery , i would take it by sears or idiot zone and have a load test done. I also live in the south and have had more batteries fail in the summer than the winter, . I do not know if it is just me or what but for the last ten years batteries usually fail between 25 and 35 months, does not matter who made it or how many months warranty came with the battery . I now consider any one i buy that i am just renting it for about 30 months , with the rate being about 1.50 a month. LOAD TEST . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CadiKing Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 I noticed you were from TEXAS, ... take it by sears or idiot zone ... LOAD TEST . franey, Idiot Zone You are too much! I agree, LOAD TEST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oldgamer Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 It doesn't look like a battery. If the light didn't became to dimm when you try to start, the battery is fine. Check the light again when you start. You can check voltage with a dashboard display, but it is not very comfortable in this case, because it's digital. Still, check how deep voltage goes down when you start the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MIke D Posted July 27, 2004 Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 Check the cables... Pull them off and clean them... Pull the plastic/rubber boot away from the metal end and clean way down the cable... 9 times out of 10 all starting problems start with the battery cables. Dont just look and think they are ok... pull them off and check it... I have been stranded a few times from this... MD Cop didn't see it, I didn't do it! 93 STS 225,000 Miles 99 STS 111,000 Miles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted July 27, 2004 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2004 The lights do not dim when starting the engine. After going through the Monitering Systems check the battery voltage starts at around 12 and then goes up. This weekend I will take it by Sears or the Idiot Zone, have them do a load test and report back. Cleaning the cables is also a good idea, even if that is not the problem. By the way, I have started the car about 25 times since I had the problem and it fired up right away every time. Thanks, I really appreciate the advice from everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted August 17, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2004 OK, it's not the battery. However, the last time it wouldn't start (about ten minutes ago) I did notice something else. With the gear shift lever pushed up all the way into Park it wouldn't start. Pulling it slightly back (still in Park) it started. Tried it several times with the same result. Does it sound like this is in the linkage which may need adjustment or could it be the Park-Neutral switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 It sounds better than starter or cables or battery. it's called lazy gear switch or something. At least you know what to do if it happens again. Check the archives. The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigfoo Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 cheap fix for it, but still one of those things that's a pain in the *smurf*.. i'd just drive it like it is now if you can stand it :> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marika Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 I'm wondering if the security system stopped the fuel or whatever it does to disable the car from starting. If the security system disabled the ignition, you would get a message on the DIC and I believe it would tell you to wait 3 minutes before starting the car. It counts down, 3, 2, 1 minute, then it will tell you to start the car. If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 Thanks for the replies. What exactly is the cheap fix? Is it something I can do myself? I can certainly live with it for awhile, but eventually I would like to fix it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 Sounds like all it needs is a simple adjustment to the PRNDL switch. I believe there is a proceedure in the service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 I've got to take my car in tomorrow morning for the fuel rail replacement and thought I would ask the dealer how much they would charge to adjust/replace the prndl. Not knowing anything about this switch, I'm somewhat afraid of what the dealer will quote for this work. Does anyone know what a reasonable charge would be to have this work done? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 No idea on cost but it is a simple proceedure as I recall. I did it once on a 4.9. Something like insert an 1/8" drill bit in a hole, loosen mounting bolts, rotate switch til drill drops in, retighten mounting bolts. Don't quote me but it is something on that order. It was very accessable over the left fender on the 4.9 as I recall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted August 18, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 Took it in the the dealer today for the fuel rail recall and asked them to adjust the Park/Neutral safety switch. They called and told me it did in fact need to be adjusted and said it would be $112. They also thought the starter might need to be replaced, but when I picked it up the service guy said the starter was ok. Instead they found some corrosion on the positive battery cable and cleaned it. Maybe I could have adjusted the switch myself, but the $112 did not seem too unreasonable (especially when you know as little as I do about auto repairs). I really do appreciate the advice I received from this board. It always helps when you can go in and tell the service guy what you think the problem is rather than saying "...it won't start." I may be an idiot when it comes to auto repairs, but at least I sound like I know what I'm talking about. Thanks again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
adallak Posted August 18, 2004 Report Share Posted August 18, 2004 I really do appreciate the advice I received from this board. It always helps when you can go in and tell the service guy what you think the problem is rather than saying "...it won't start." I may be an idiot when it comes to auto repairs, but at least I sound like I know what I'm talking about. It always better to sound like you know what you are talking about. It reduces the bills! Perhaps some day you will take action yourself with the help of this board it is not hard at all. That's how I encourage myself when I need to fix something: " Common adallak, fix it, it is not a Boeing, it's just a Cadillac!" The saddest thing in life is wasted talent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jrdjrd7 Posted October 31, 2004 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2004 Well, the adjustment to the park/nuetral safety switch the dealer performed lasted about 3 weeks before the problem started again. There is, however good news. I took it back to the dealer who told me the part would have to be replaced. Quoted me $80 for the part and $160 labor. I suggested they give me credit for the $112 labor I already paid when they adjusted it. Surprisingly, they agreed. When I picked it up the total labor was $112. When I told the cashier about the promised $112 credit, she removed the labor charge so all I paid was $80. Often the Caddy dealers get raked over pretty good on this board (and deservedly so in many cases). In this case, I thought they did the right thing so I will give credit where credit is due. Good job - Gene Messer Cadillac in Amarillo, Texas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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