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Codes, Codes, Everywhere there's codes


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E052 = PCM Memory Reset

E055 = Closed Throttle Angle Out-of-Range

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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i would look at the bhrottle body to make sure there is not deposit preventing free movementof the bkades. clear it if necessary.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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Throttle body deposits. Hold the throttle open and spray some carb cleaner on them and scrub with an old toothbrush. Don't worry about the gunk going down into the manifold. It can't hurt anything. Doesn't have to be spotless just remove the buildup. Don't forget the bottom of the throttle plates. The engine will reset it's idle all by itself. Forget about the much talked about idle learn procedure.

While you are there rod out those two tubes down in the manifold. They are for the EGR and should be clear. No need to make 'em too clean just fully open. Again don't worry about the junk going downward. There isn't anything there to hurt.

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OK. Replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the TPS as per codes. Was running fine for a couple of days, then I drove it one hot afternoon for a couple of hours, and the same problem started. Can only open the throttle so much. Try to punch it to pass someone and the car starts to lag, buck, surge, fart, etc. But this ONLY happens after driving a while in HOT weather. AT night, once the heat of the day passes, the problem takes longer to rear it's ugly head, and it's much less severe. Leave the car sit all night, and the next morning, you can drive for a good hour before it starts up again. Last night on my way back from Orlando, it started again. By the time I got home, the car wouldn't even idle. More codes (NEW). They are:

E32 - E52 - E55 - E71

I know that E52 is PCM Memory Reset. Does that mean that it HAS been reset, or NEEDS to be reset? And E55 is "closed throttle angle out of range." Not really sure what this means.

If someone could not only discern these, but EXPLAIN them, I would be eternally grateful. As I have said, I'm an old gearhead, but I built 60's and 70's vintage Mustangs, Trucks, a T-Bird, and yes, even a Caddy :D , so in some respects, I'm kind of an analog guy in a digital world. :ph34r:

I'm at my wits end here. Would really appreciate the help.

Cheers,

Tim

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E032 = Open MAP Sensor

E052 = PCM Memory Reset

E055 = Closed Throttle Angle out of Range

E071 = Intermittent MAP Sensor

Circuit Descriptions:

E032 = sets when the PCM detects a MAP sensor signal that is too low.

E052 = This diagnostic test monitors the PCM's long term memory for loss or unintended change of data. If such a condition occurs Code E052 is set.

E055 = The TPS on the FPI engine is "self adjusting". At key off the PCM executes a TPS learning routine. After key off, the PCM will retract the ISC until the ISC throttle switch opens and the throttle linkage is resting on the minimum air screw. At that time, the PCM stores the TPS value and calculates a correction. If the same correction factor occurs on two consecutive key "OFF" cycles, the TPS is then corrected to 0 degrees using the correction factor "learned". If the value needs correction by more than -2.9 degrees or +3.0 degrees, Code E055 will be stored in memory at the next key "on" cycle.

E071 = This diagnostic test monitors Throttle Angle (TPS), Engine Speed (RPM), Manifold Pressure (MAP), EGR Flow, and Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch. If TPS, rpm, EGR Flow, and A/C Clutch remain constant, and there is a rapid change in MAP the code will set.

I think your problem is your Throttle Position Sensor. My mechanic recently replaced mine and it actually required two people to do the computer set up afterwards, one to watch the throttle while letting the other mechanic know when it's open and closed, and the other sitting at the DIC entering data and commands and stepping through the process of having the computer memorize everything.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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PCM, FPI, ISC ?

If you would speak in terms of Holley 750's, Eelbrock Torkers, and Dana 411 POSI rears, I could understand  :D

Thanks for your help.

Best,

Tim

You said this happens on a hot day? Are you running the A/C when this happens?

When the TPS was replaced, did you do the set up in the computer?

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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PCM = Powertrain Control Module

ICS = Idle Control Speed

PFI - Port Fuel Injector Assembly (FPI was a typo, sorry about that)

I think it would be wise for you to shop around on e-bay and find a service manual for your car if Holley etc is what you are used to.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Don't know. I am assuming that the shop did what was necessary, but I'll find out.

As for the A/C, happens with or without. Just happens much sooner on a HOT day.

Tim

For a code to "set", something is either malfunctioning or going "out of range". Perhaps the TPS is not set up correctly, TPS cable might be pinched or stretched or something might be wrong with an injector.

Do you see any smoke of ANY type while you are driving?

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Oh yeah, and one more question: How's your transmission?

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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E099 = Cruise Servo Applied Not in Cruise

This diagnostic test monitors the cruise control servo position sensor to ensure that the servo has released the throttle after the cruise control has been disengaged.

Failure conditions:

1. Cruise control disengaged for 2 seconds.

2. THROTTLE ANGLE GREATER THAN 20 DEGREES, TPS NOT FAILED; OR

MAP greater than 70kPa, TPS FAILED. (we already know the TPS has failed from previous codes being set)

3. Cruise control servo stroke greater than 62.5% for 0.1 second.

This whole mess keeps on pointing at your TPS, in my opinion.

Other diagnostics are: check your vacuum lines; check mechanical operation for servo binding; check for binding throttle/cruise linkage.

Buy a Cadillac Service Manual on ebay or at http://www.helminc.com for your specific vehicle. Believe me, it will be the best money you spend on that car and the book is worth it's weight in gold.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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The fastest way that I know of is to disconnect the battery terminals for a few minutes.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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I am absolutely going to invest in a service manual.

A couple of weeks ago, someone mentioned that you could "reset the codes while driving if you want." So I'm assuming that there IS a way other than disconnecting the battery.

The thing that's puzzling here is the time or temp factor. Just got back from running errands. Car ran like a top for the first hour. Took it to a stretch of open road, wound it up over 100, no problem, and continued to run fine. Then, like throwing a switch, started the bucking, farting, lagging routine. Is there a component in the fuel or ignition system that would be affected by high heat? As I said previously, on a cool night, it takes a couple of hours for the problem to manifest itself, whereas on a blazing hot afternoon, thirty minutes or so, and bang. Shut it down for a few minutes, improves vastly, and then gets progressively worse again. I'm totally stumped.

By the way, is there a published list of codes in the archives, or online somewhere?

Thanks again,

Tim

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I am absolutely going to invest in a service manual.

A couple of weeks ago, someone mentioned that you could "reset the codes while driving if you want." So I'm assuming that there IS a way other than disconnecting the battery.

The thing that's puzzling here is the time or temp factor. Just got back from running errands. Car ran like a top for the first hour. Took it to a stretch of open road, wound it up over 100, no problem, and continued to run fine. Then, like throwing a switch, started the bucking, farting, lagging routine. Is there a component in the fuel or ignition system that would be affected by high heat? As I said previously, on a cool night, it takes a couple of hours for the problem to manifest itself, whereas on a blazing hot afternoon, thirty minutes or so, and bang. Shut it down for a few minutes, improves vastly, and then gets progressively worse again. I'm totally stumped.

By the way, is there a published list of codes in the archives, or online somewhere?

Thanks again,

Tim

Might also be the ignition module acting up. I had a chevy that drove fine while it was cold but once it warmed up, it acted up. The mechanic ran the car until it was hot and acting up, then, sprayed some freon on the module to cool it down and bingo, it started to run fine again. He replaced the module and everything was ok again.

The codes are somewhere on this site, use the search feature. I was taking them from my copy of the service manual ;) .

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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Wouldn't a bad ignition module set a code?

Tim

There can be a lot of things that go wrong in a caddy that won't necessarily set a code but it's another thing to add to the list of things to consider. The mechanic couldn't find the problem in my chevy hooked up the computer. He did it the old fashioned way, detective work.

Have you looked at any of the throttle cables to see if they bind? At least eliminating them from the list is a start.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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It certainly looks like the temperature is effecting the car. Something, probably electronic, is starting to breakdown and the heat is making it show up.

If you really want to make people safe drivers again then simply remove all the safety features from cars. No more seat belts, ABS brakes, traction control, air bags or stability control. No more anything. You'll see how quickly people will slow down and once again learn to drive like "normal" humans.

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