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1998 Deville A/C Issues


DJRATEDR

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Just recharged my system again. Had it vacuumed and charged professionally last year and it ran out ... found 3 cans of freon in the basement and decided to do it myself. Compressor makes a whining sound that increases/decreases with engine speed. Does this mean the bearing is going bad or does it need oil? I remember someone saying NOT to add the R134 with oil and o-ring treatment, but it didn't make that noise when i got it serviced last year.

Also, I noticed what appears to be the leak. I can feel air blowing/leaking out (also when line is really covered in condensation you can see bubbles on the rubber grommet) from the area where the high pressure line makes a 90 degree angle downward into a rubber housing/grommet on the passenger side firewall ... looks to be one big housing where the blower motor is encased. Does that whole unit have to be taken out or is there a leak additive for small leaks in A/C systems?

Thank you

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Never add stop leak to your AC system. if you can see bubbles I wouldn't call it a slow leak. - it's something major. Not sure what's involved with that gasket, but it certainly sounds like that line needs to be disassembled at the joint, and a new gasket put in. KHE is our AC expert on this board. - hopefully he can give you more info.

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Never/never/never use a 'sealant' in an AC system. All manner of bad/expensive to fix things happen. Fix the faulty connection, if that is the source. When the system leaks the refrigerant it is also leaking the lube-oil....a bad thing. If you can not do this work yourself, bring it to a professional automotive AC repair business....not a place that 'also' does ac work. Getting the job done right the first time is what you want.

GM Reman 4.1 engine Dec '08

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Never/never/never use a 'sealant' in an AC system. All manner of bad/expensive to fix things happen. Fix the faulty connection, if that is the source. When the system leaks the refrigerant it is also leaking the lube-oil....a bad thing. If you can not do this work yourself, bring it to a professional automotive AC repair business....not a place that 'also' does ac work. Getting the job done right the first time is what you want.

Thanks for the heads up. I'm sure I remembered reading somewhere on here to NEVER us the stuff as well. Does anyone know of the tube I'm referring to and how extensive it may be to access it? It is the (I believe) high pressure tube to the very left of the engine compartment, back by the firewall that goes 90 degrees downward into a foamish/rubber grommet/insulator. The whole unit itself holds the blower motor. Not sure if I'll be able to access a fitting after I get the grommet/insulator off/out of the housing? I suppose after I fix the leak I'll want to add a can of oil that comes with the freon ... that will stop the whining sound from the compressor?

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I am not at all sure what part you are talking about and am getting more and more confused. There is no high pressure or low pressure tube so to speak. One half of the system is the high pressure side and the other is the low pressure side. If the compressor is making noise, more oil is not likely to quiet it down. There should be no need to add oil unless there was a catastrophic depressurization. Otherwise a slow leak should not loose much if any oil at all.

I can feel air blowing/leaking out (also when line is really covered in condensation you can see bubbles on the rubber grommet) from the area where the high pressure line makes a 90 degree angle downward into a rubber housing/grommet on the passenger side firewall ... looks to be one big housing where the blower motor is encased.

I can't help but wonder if you are talking about the HVAC housing and seeing condensate dripping from air pressure supplied by the blower motor. A refrigerant leak like you describe would not last very long as it would vent very fast and empty the system.

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You had the system evacuated and recharged last year and it leaked out. You added 3 cans of R-134a but did not mention vacuuming the syetem down. System capacity is 2.0 lbs (32 ozs) and you added 36 ozs to the system which accounting for the losses when changing the cans, you basically added the total system capacity to the system that was filled with air.

I would guess the system has high head pressure due to the air in the system. That may explain the noisy compressor.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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