Overheat Issue

[hollowz]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[BodybyFisher]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At least you did not spend too much for the car

You need to do a few things here since its a new car.

First STOP putting water in the coolant tank, you need to put coolant. If your coolant concentration is less than 50/50 you will boil at a lower temp

Secondly, flush your system

Third, while the system is being flushed, change your thermostat and CAP

Fourth, check your water pump belt NOT serp belt, the WP belt on the driverside front of the engine

Fifth refill with dexcool and put in 5 cooling supplement tablets

Six check the action of the fans

If it still overheats:

Do you have steam coming from the exhaust?

Do you smell coolant from exhaust?

Have the cooling system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure

If it holds pressure, have the coolant tested for combustion by products to see if your head gaskets are breached.

[Ranger]

Before putting any money or work into it I would have the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases. There is probably a reason you got it so cheap (I suspect it should be worth more).

[BodybyFisher]

Before putting any money or work into it I would have the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases. There is probably a reason you got it so cheap (I suspect it should be worth more).

Good point, you know me, I always start simple, but I suppose its good to take that off the table quickly.

[GMAN]

Hello everyone, apologies for hijacking this thread, but it seemed the thing to do since the topic is exacatly what I had in mind. I too just bought a 96 STS real cheap. I went into it eyes open. I knew it got hot and overheated. The car only has 120k miles on it and is immaculate. I am prepared to a head gasket job if I have to, but would like to root out all of the simple solutions first. Some guys at my job, told me to check the oil and see if it was milky, which is a sign I guess. I too will try all of the suggestions first.

[Ranger]

Northstars rarely put coolant in the oil when a head gasket goes.

[caddydealer]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At least you did not spend too much for the car

You need to do a few things here since its a new car.

First STOP putting water in the coolant tank, you need to put coolant. If your coolant concentration is less than 50/50 you will boil at a lower temp

Secondly, flush your system

Third, while the system is being flushed, change your thermostat and CAP

Fourth, check your water pump belt NOT serp belt, the WP belt on the driverside front of the engine

Fifth refill with dexcool and put in 5 cooling supplement tablets

Six check the action of the fans

If it still overheats:

Do you have steam coming from the exhaust?

Do you smell coolant from exhaust?

Have the cooling system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure

If it holds pressure, have the coolant tested for combustion by products to see if your head gaskets are breached.

None of that will fix the problem. Take it to the dealer and shell out the cash for a head gasket job if it hasnt had one already. If it has, shell out the cash for a motor. The head gaskets are toast.

[BodybyFisher]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At least you did not spend too much for the car

You need to do a few things here since its a new car.

First STOP putting water in the coolant tank, you need to put coolant. If your coolant concentration is less than 50/50 you will boil at a lower temp

Secondly, flush your system

Third, while the system is being flushed, change your thermostat and CAP

Fourth, check your water pump belt NOT serp belt, the WP belt on the driverside front of the engine

Fifth refill with dexcool and put in 5 cooling supplement tablets

Six check the action of the fans

If it still overheats:

Do you have steam coming from the exhaust?

Do you smell coolant from exhaust?

Have the cooling system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure

If it holds pressure, have the coolant tested for combustion by products to see if your head gaskets are breached.

None of that will fix the problem. Take it to the dealer and shell out the cash for a head gasket job if it hasnt had one already. If it has, shell out the cash for a motor. The head gaskets are toast.

IF you are a caddydealer I am not surprised you would make as statement like this on your second post going IMMEDIATELY to the head gaskets and coming here on your second post and contradicting a members post. Not classy at all.

Sir since this is YOUR second post let me tell you what we do here, we start SMALL, BASIC with the EASY things first, we don't hit the panic button.

Yes we DO KNOW that it could be the head gaskets we have over 10 years experience with it and many of us have done the job WITHOUT taking it to the dealer.

I always start at the BOTTOM of the list of potential problems, we have seen CLOGGED air purge lines cause problems, simple things

However, Ranger's advice is more prudent and he cuts to the chase with this statement:

Before putting any money or work into it I would have the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases. There is probably a reason you got it so cheap (I suspect it should be worth more).

We also don't believe that the dealer is the only place to get the engine repaired.

[caddydealer]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At least you did not spend too much for the car

You need to do a few things here since its a new car.

First STOP putting water in the coolant tank, you need to put coolant. If your coolant concentration is less than 50/50 you will boil at a lower temp

Secondly, flush your system

Third, while the system is being flushed, change your thermostat and CAP

Fourth, check your water pump belt NOT serp belt, the WP belt on the driverside front of the engine

Fifth refill with dexcool and put in 5 cooling supplement tablets

Six check the action of the fans

If it still overheats:

Do you have steam coming from the exhaust?

Do you smell coolant from exhaust?

Have the cooling system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure

If it holds pressure, have the coolant tested for combustion by products to see if your head gaskets are breached.

None of that will fix the problem. Take it to the dealer and shell out the cash for a head gasket job if it hasnt had one already. If it has, shell out the cash for a motor. The head gaskets are toast.

IF you are a caddydealer I am not surprised you would make as statement like this on your second post going IMMEDIATELY to the head gaskets and coming here on your second post and contradicting a members post. Not classy at all.

Sir since this is YOUR second post let me tell you what we do here, we start SMALL, BASIC with the EASY things first, we don't hit the panic button.

Yes we DO KNOW that it could be the head gaskets we have over 10 years experience with it and many of us have done the job WITHOUT taking it to the dealer.

I always start at the BOTTOM of the list of potential problems, we have seen CLOGGED air purge lines cause problems, simple things

However, Ranger's advice is more prudent and he cuts to the chase with this statement:

Before putting any money or work into it I would have the coolant tested for the presence of exhaust gases. There is probably a reason you got it so cheap (I suspect it should be worth more).

We also don't believe that the dealer is the only place to get the engine repaired.

This statement coming from someone who posted on another problem that they have never seen a scan tool that identifies individual misfires in cylinders. Changing the cap and flushing the system arent going to help this man. Ive seen too many come in like this. No you dont have to go to the dealer but you can go to an independent and have a 50/50 chance of having a butcher job done to this car. There is no COULD BE THE HEAD GASKETS, this car has blown headgaskets.

[BodybyFisher]

What exactly is your problem and why are you being so aggressive?

You have come here and made lots of aggressive statements and i was being nice by not commenting on how such a know it all that claims and implies to be from a dealer could make a statement like this:

I have a 2000 Deville with a no start problem. I turn the key and nothing happens. Can anyone help

In this thread:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=20878&hl=

You mean the dealer can't fix that or you who appears to know it all can't diagnose it? Come on are you here to start trouble or what?

[Texas Jim]

I would not, nor would I recommend, that ANYONE, immediately run to the dealer and start throwing money at them to fix a problem when you don't yet know exactly what the problem is.

Thats stupid.

You need to first know, FOR SURE, what is wrong with it.

Get the combustion byproducts test done to confirm or eliminate exhaust in the coolant.

THEN and ONLY THEN..you make a decision about what other steps to take.

[caddydealer]

What exactly is your problem and why are you being so aggressive?

You have come here and made lots of aggressive statements and i was being nice by not commenting on how such a know it all that claims and implies to be from a dealer could make a statement like this:

I have a 2000 Deville with a no start problem. I turn the key and nothing happens. Can anyone help

In this thread:

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...c=20878&hl=

You mean the dealer can't fix that or you who appears to know it all can't diagnose it? Come on are you here to start trouble or what?

I wasnt being aggressive. Just didnt want to waste his time. I posted that earlier to see if anyone could give me some great advice since you have 10 years experience. The no start is already out of the shop. So tell me, where do you go after you find the purple wire has no power in crank?

[BodybyFisher]

I personally don't like your statement regarding the code scanner, we don't walk around with Tech 2's here and the OBD does not give specific misfire codes on OBD2. My Autotap will in fact specifically identify the cylinder, but I have not seen a handheld unit do it, and I was inquiring to see how he determined it. I really don't need to defend myself, if you do a little research you will see I am quite helpful.

I would take it back to the dealer or ask one of your crack mechanics with his Tech 2. Something is wrong with your question given your proported competence and access to the dealer.

[caddytom]

Okay, just bought a 96 sls for 900 bucks, told it has an overheating problem due to the electric fans. Fixed the fan issue, they're blowing and for a while, I'd say about a good 30-45 minutes I left it running and never got the needle to even flinch off of the half mark between hot and cold. I'm driving along, and after a while it began to overheat, cut it off and let it go cold. After a while, I turned it back on and let it sit running, and it began to rise over the half mark yet again. White smoke coming from the coolant area and I get a check coolant level message. Checked it, and added some water at the gas station(assuming that water is distilled I hope) with no antifreeze in sight, praying that it would last till I got home. Again I get a check coolant light down the road, stop on the side of the road, more white coming from the coolant cap area. It was dark as hell, I'm tired to death, and I just need a clue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

At least you did not spend too much for the car

You need to do a few things here since its a new car.

First STOP putting water in the coolant tank, you need to put coolant. If your coolant concentration is less than 50/50 you will boil at a lower temp

Secondly, flush your system

Third, while the system is being flushed, change your thermostat and CAP

Fourth, check your water pump belt NOT serp belt, the WP belt on the driverside front of the engine

Fifth refill with dexcool and put in 5 cooling supplement tablets

Six check the action of the fans

If it still overheats:

Do you have steam coming from the exhaust?

Do you smell coolant from exhaust?

Have the cooling system pressure tested to see if it holds pressure

If it holds pressure, have the coolant tested for combustion by products to see if your head gaskets are breached.

I completely agree with you. Those steps are definitely the way to go first. I had one that did it to me and turned out my radiator was just clogged up. It has run like a champ since.

[caddydealer]

I personally don't like your statement regarding the code scanner, we don't walk around with Tech 2's here and the OBD does not give specific misfire codes on OBD2. My Autotap will in fact specifically identify the cylinder, but I have not seen a handheld unit do it, and I was inquiring to see how he determined it. I really don't need to defend myself, if you do a little research you will see I am quite helpful.

I would take it back to the dealer or ask one of your crack mechanics with his Tech 2. Something is wrong with your question given your proported competence and access to the dealer.

Its my twisted sense of humor that makes my question seem wrong to you. I didnt come on here to argue with you. You rattled my cage first. So as a friendly question to you. What do you do when you hit the key and theres no power on the purple wire?

[Texas Jim]

Mike, (BBF)

Look at his statement in this thread

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...mp;#entry141243

about what I can and can't do about changing out ECM and TCM.

I did it, it works, and I DO NOT have a Tech2, nor did I need one.

He was wrong on all counts.

I don't know what his problem is, nor do I really care at this point. As far as I have seen, he has helped no one, and is just causing problems or trying to.

Maybe he is trying to drum up work for his service dept...if he is, in some way, really connected to a dealer, which, at this point, I highly doubt.

If he is, I would like to know which one, because, I darn sure don't want to take MY car there. With the attitude he has, me or him one, would get hurt.

[BodybyFisher]

I personally don't like your statement regarding the code scanner, we don't walk around with Tech 2's here and the OBD does not give specific misfire codes on OBD2. My Autotap will in fact specifically identify the cylinder, but I have not seen a handheld unit do it, and I was inquiring to see how he determined it. I really don't need to defend myself, if you do a little research you will see I am quite helpful.

I would take it back to the dealer or ask one of your crack mechanics with his Tech 2. Something is wrong with your question given your proported competence and access to the dealer.

Its my twisted sense of humor that makes my question seem wrong to you. I didnt come on here to argue with you. You rattled my cage first. So as a friendly question to you. What do you do when you hit the key and theres no power on the purple wire?

Lets set the record straight, I did NOT rattle your cage first! You came here and STOMPED on my advice and made this statement:

None of that will fix the problem. Take it to the dealer and shell out the cash for a head gasket job if it hasnt had one already. If it has, shell out the cash for a motor. The head gaskets are toast

That statement is rash and it hits the panic button and as you can see from the member just above your post there are simple fixes. As I said, I start at the BOTTOM of the food chain with the simple things and move up to TESTING and HEAD GASKETS.

I have not had experience with your purple wire, maybe someone will stop by and help

[BodybyFisher]

Mike, (BBF)

Look at his statement in this thread

http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...mp;#entry141243

about what I can and can't do about changing out ECM and TCM.

I did it, it works, and I DO NOT have a Tech2, nor did I need one.

He was wrong on all counts.

I don't know what his problem is, nor do I really care at this point. As far as I have seen, he has helped no one, and is just causing problems or trying to.

Maybe he is trying to drum up work for his service dept...if he is, in some way, really connected to a dealer, which, at this point, I highly doubt.

If he is, I would like to know which one, because, I darn sure don't want to take MY car there. With the attitude he has, me or him one, would get hurt.

I know Jim, that is what I meant by aggressive posts. Posting contradictory information, which is what he did to me. I don't know what his issue is. It did cross my mind that he is trying to drum up work, but doing it here is like a needle in a haystack. I am sure they are sucking wind with sales so they need repairs and big repairs at that. However this is EXACTLY what I don't like about dealers, they immediately push the panic button and he ASSUMES its head gaskets right off the bat. To me that is a negative perspective and exactly the problem with dealers, you know what they say about assuming (*smurf*-U-ME)..

Definately a bad attitude and with so much supposed knowledge and resources at his command to ask a question about a 2000 not starting is ridiculous.

[Texas Jim]

Definately a bad attitude and with so much supposed knowledge and resources at his command to ask a question about a 2000 not starting is ridiculous.

You can't assume anything about a problem with a car till you do some basic trouble shooting.

I work on computers for a living...If one does not boot up, I dont just immediately replace the system board or power supply. First thing I do, is look to see if it is plugged in.

yeah, the question about the 2000 that wouldn't start...THAT don't make any sense.

It was pointless.

[BodybyFisher]

The other thing is this, we are working in a medium here that has many shortcomings

1) We cant see the car

2) We can not do the diagnosis ourselves

3) We do not know what has been done in most instances

4) We do not know the posters mechanical knowledge

5) We do not know the posters intelligence

6) We do not know the posters experience with the Northstar

As a result, we can not assume anything and need to start from the ground up

If we sat here and for EVERY overheating NS assumed it was headgaskets that would not serve anyone's needs except the dealers service departments and it would ruin GMs reputation

The key is to eliminate the simple issues, a simple thermostat will cause FITS and it will ESPECIALLY cause overheating AT idle as was happening to the original posters NS! MOST head gasket problems show themselves when the engine is labored under a load...

I do know one thing however, I WILL eventually get to testing and headgaskets once ALL the easy crap is eliminated, but I don't even say spend $50 on a test kit or take it to a radiator shop for a test UNTIL all basics are eliminated..

We are here to help, educate and ARM Cadillac owners with information to help them with their problem... NOT TO PANIC. IF YOU WANT TO PANIC TAKE IT TO THE DEALER

[Texas Jim]

The key is to eliminate the simple issues, a simple thermostat will cause FITS and it will ESPECIALLY cause overheating AT idle as was happening to the original posters NS! MOST head gasket problems show themselves when the engine is labored under a load...

I do know one thing however, I WILL eventually get to testing and headgaskets once ALL the easy crap is eliminated, but I don't even say spend $50 on a test kit or take it to a radiator shop for a test UNTIL all basics are eliminated..

We are here to help, educate and ARM Cadillac owners with information to help them with their problem... NOT TO PANIC. IF YOU WANT TO PANIC TAKE IT TO THE DEALER

Thats exactly the way I like to work also.

Eliminate what it IS NOT...whatever else remains...that is what it IS.

[Number97]

I personally don't like your statement regarding the code scanner, we don't walk around with Tech 2's here and the OBD does not give specific misfire codes on OBD2. My Autotap will in fact specifically identify the cylinder, but I have not seen a handheld unit do it, and I was inquiring to see how he determined it. I really don't need to defend myself, if you do a little research you will see I am quite helpful.

I would take it back to the dealer or ask one of your crack mechanics with his Tech 2. Something is wrong with your question given your proported competence and access to the dealer.

Its my twisted sense of humor that makes my question seem wrong to you. I didnt come on here to argue with you. You rattled my cage first. So as a friendly question to you. What do you do when you hit the key and theres no power on the purple wire?

Take it to the junk yard?