chazglenn3 Posted January 11, 2009 Report Share Posted January 11, 2009 So, from what I gather by reading the forum, Logan has said that the P1860 code as a result of a failed TCC PWM solenoid causes the P0741 code. Makes perfect sense to me and is backed up by the FSM. Now, I have called no fewer than three local Cadillac dealers to get a quote to replace the soleniod and NONE of them was willing or able to understand that all I want done is the solenoid replaced. Each of them said something a little different, but the bottom line was that there is more than likely other issues in the transmission and that they were unwilling to give me a price to just change the solenoid. The lowest price given was over $2000. One dealer even told me that the P0741 was a easier code to repair and that the P1860 was a huge deal. Sure wish I had the tools and skills to drop the cradle and fix it myself. At least the Chevrolet delaer that I bought the car from is willing to replace the solenoid for $1300. Are they having such a hard time selling cars that they are resorting to screwing people in the service department??? Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 The fundamental issue of cost of transmission work at the dealer is that GM dealers warrant their repairs for long periods, sometimes for the life of the vehicle. They are not authorized, for example, to replace only the TCC solenoid and not provide a warranty of three years or whatever on the transmission; if they work on the transmission at all, they warrant the transmission for the requisite period. Thus the minimum transmission job beyond simple servicing is disassembly, inspection, and reassembly with rebuild kit (gaskets, seals, clutches, O-rings, thrust washers, etc.). Transmission chains like AAMCO will have a similar policy. Thus replacement of just the TCC solenoid is a DIY job. The P1860 code means that the TCC solenoid circuit is open or shorted. This could be a connector problem. You might be able to clear it up by cleaning and possibly straightening up the connectors on the transmission. There is a remote possibility that there is a connector or harness problem between the transmission and the PCM. A tech with a Tech II or equivalent module data reader may be able to tell more. If it isn't a bad connection or wiring harness problem on or near the transmission where things can get banged up once in awhile, then the TCC solenoid coil is likely open. There is something to what the service manager says. If a TCC solenoid is open, there is likely a cause such as debris or contaminants in the fluid that would probably affect the other solenoids or other components. A good investment for the long haul would be to replace all three solenoids, and, if the transmission fluid looks bad when you pull it down, put in a rebuild kit. A transmission shop with a one-year guarantee might be able to do the job cheaper than a dealer with a three-year (or whatever the GM Goodwrench warranty period is) warranty. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted January 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 Thanks, Jim. That makes sense to me. However, I wonder how the Chevy dealer came up with the $1300 to change the solenoid. I'll have to inquire with them. Do you know if the connector is easily accessible? Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 There could be a slight difference in the connector location between my 1998 model and your 2000 model due to the engine air intake plumbing changes in 2000. But the connector in question is a round, 20 pin connector that in 1998 was directly under and 1 or 2 inches forward of the master cylinder. I have no idea how much of the engine air plumbing you might have to remove to gain access. It would certainly be worth whatever effort you had to burn to eliminate possible connector-wiring problems problems before you dig into the transaxle. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 The connector I'm talking about is accessible with face-distorting inconvenience from under the car. If you have jack stands, a creeper, and a trouble light, go for it. If you need help in finding it, let me know and I'll scan in the appropriate pages from the FSM or the transmission manual (I have both) but you should be able to find it by following the wires. It's on top of the transmission. I've seen photos of it on posts by BodybyFisher but I can't find them easily or I would link to them in this post.. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted January 12, 2009 Report Share Posted January 12, 2009 I was quoted about the same price for the ISS speed sensor. While I was there I replaced my TCC solenoid and pressure solenoid. I must tell you that Logans bolt method makes this job a lot easier, you need to tilt the engine down on the drivers side. It is physically a hard job but if you decide to do it we will help you. In one swoop you could replace the ISS sensor, TCC and Pressure solenoids, filters even harness if yours is leaking. The problem I had with the $1300 figure was that a total rebuild can be had for about $2200 Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks guys. I will see if I can get to the connector on my days off this weekend and ohm out the pins and see what I find. Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 I would caution you to NOT use your ohmmeter on the PCM side of the transaxle connector unless the PCM connector was also disconnected. A meter that uses a 9V battery as a power source 'could' do some serious damage to the internals of the PCM. At the transaxle connector, you are looking for wire harness damage, connector pins/sockets oxidation, corrosion, as well as the specified resistance reading on the various solenoid coils. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chazglenn3 Posted January 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Thanks Jim. My multimeter does have a 9V battery in it. Wouldn't I check the tranny side of the connector? I want to be sure. I need to check the diagnostic tree again. Charles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted January 13, 2009 Report Share Posted January 13, 2009 Certainly you can and should check the resistance of the coils on the transaxle side of the connector without fear of causing any damage. I simply did not want you applying that 9 Volts back toward the PCM side of that connector. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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