Front End Loose

[MAC]

I just replaced my right bearing for the second time in about 10K miles because there's play, which is causing wheel wobble when driving. The bearing replacement didn't solve the problem. I believe the problem could be related to the rack, perhaps a worn inner tie rod. When I hold the wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock and check for play, I notice the back of the wheel (left side when facing the wheel) can be pushed in. The play is pronounced. Also, when I make a sharp left turn there is a pop due to stress on the right wheel.

Would anyone happen to know what exactly the problem could be?

[MrEldo97]

Grab your tie rod and try to move it within the rack and watch for play at the ball socket on the outer end.

Also check your upper and lower balljoints.

How many miles on your ride?

[Texas Jim]

I would make a WAG that it is the tie rod ends.

If there is enough play to cause a wheel wobble, it shouldn't be too hard to narrow it down.

As MrEldo97 said... watch your tie rod as you grab it and try to move it. See if you can tell exactly where the play is coming from. Inner or outer end.

Also check to make SURE that the rack is fastened securely, but if it was loose, you should get play on BOTH wheels.

[MAC]

I'll check the inner rod. I replaced both outer rods within the last 10K miles. I'll disconnect the outer rod, grab the inner rod and check for play. Also, from what I understand, the inner rod should not drop if moved up and then let go. I also bought a ball joint just in case. But I really hope the joint doesn't need to be replaced because drilling out the rivets is a pain. But if it does, I'll take BodybyFisher's advice and remove the entire Control Arm and drill the rivets on a flat surface.

MrEldo97, my ride is now approaching 112K miles. The interior is immaculate, but the body can use some cosmetic work.

Thanks for the input!

Mike

[BodybyFisher]

Those hub bearings are very durable, if one went in 10K miles, I would say it was a manufacturing defect. As the others noted, it is sounding like a tie rod. Do you get a slapping feeling in your steering wheel at all either from shimmy or over bumps?

If you don't have one, buy a new drill bit if you need to drill out those rivets, it makes a big difference, I think the bit size is 7/16"?, I forget.

[MAC]

Those hub bearings are very durable, if one went in 10K miles, I would say it was a manufacturing defect. As the others noted, it is sounding like a tie rod. Do you get a slapping feeling in your steering wheel at all either from shimmy or over bumps?

If you don't have one, buy a new drill bit if you need to drill out those rivets, it makes a big difference, I think the bit size is 7/16"?, I forget.

No, I can't say there's a slapping feeling in the steering wheel. The bit size is 7/16. I use 7/16, but I believe 1/2 is what's actually called for. 7/16 is fine as it leaves a little bit of room for centering error and the rivet can be easily punched out once it's almost drilled out.

[MrEldo97]

I replaced a lower ball joint on my '97 a while back.

I removed the control arm from the car, ground the top of each rivet flat, center punched the center of each rivet and then drilled them out on my drill press. I used my air hammer to knock out the remains of each rivet. Really not too difficult a job.