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How to Replacing Brake Pads?


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Hey guys, new here, i tried doing a serch and could not find any info. does anybody knows what specific tools i would need when replacing the front pads, and taking out the rotors to get them cut? and any tips to keep in mind?

thank you very much for the help in advance.

car is a 2004 Caddy CTS thank you

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Are these OEM rotors? Did you wear through the pads and go to metal on metal?

I just did my pads, and I just put new pads on and bedded the brakes, leaving the rotors as they were. I think I remember the guru saying to do this before, maybe if someone has this saved they can post it or confirm it. No complaints now, still stops as smooth and hard as it ever did.

Ive always turned the rotors on previous cars, but Im glad I didnt turn mine.

If you stopped smooth before, meaning you have no thickness variation on the rotors (some call it warped rotors), I would personally leave mine as they are and just slap on new Delco pads.

Just my opinion though.

Not sure about tools... I have an 01... just need a 15 mm 6 pt to remove the caliper mounting bracket to get the rotor off... I think it was a 15mm to remove the pads too... but I know some cars have torq bolts to hold the caliper on, so maybe someone who has delt with this will let you know the size, I think it may be a 35 but thats just the number on the top of my head.

Good Luck.

Jonah

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You'll also need a large C clamp to compress the piston on the front calipers (rears are turned in with a "brake cube".

Good call... I forgot this... I would bleed the brakes while I was there also... thats a 10mm on my car... I would use a box wrench or 6pt for this... and some PB Blaster if they are rusty... Dont break them off like I did! <_<

Jonah

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Sharp taps square on to the very end of the bleeder (with a "small" hammer don't "pound" it just sharply TAP it) a 10mm 6 point socket with a quarter inch drive ratchet wrench and tapping the handle of the ratchet with the same hammer and PB Blaster works best. I've never broken a rusted bleeder using this method. You should consider replacing rusted bleeders with new - slop some never sieze on the threads of the new bleeders. This makes it easier to get 'em out next time.

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Sharp taps square on to the very end of the bleeder (with a "small" hammer don't "pound" it just sharply TAP it) a 10mm 6 point socket with a quarter inch drive ratchet wrench and tapping the handle of the ratchet with the same hammer and PB Blaster works best. I've never broken a rusted bleeder using this method. You should consider replacing rusted bleeders with new - slop some never sieze on the threads of the new bleeders. This makes it easier to get 'em out next time.

Good advice, thanks for that, I have avoided bleeding my brakes due to the fear of breaking a bleeder screw

I have actually been toying with buying an impact driver like this for the purpose of removing bleeder screws

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Impact_driver

This article confirms what MrEldo97 stated about tapping on a frozen nut and using PB

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Re...roken_fasteners

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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I used to be BigCat - changed my screen name to one more appropriate... Thank you. We are all on Caddyinfo to help each other out...

When the bleeders finally begin to turn just be very gentle with them, use PB Blaster to continue to break the rust and to LUBRICATE the bleeder and slowly and very carefully finish turning it out.

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