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Broke off bleeder screw on rear caliper


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So now Ive really pissed myself off :angry: ... I broke off the bleeder screw on the right rear caliper on my STS... anyone here had any luck using an easy out to remove one? Ive read elsewhere that it cant be done, but I think Ill try anyway... Im thinking heat it up pretty good (off the car) and ice down the screw remains... It was pretty (really) rusty... I should have known better.

AHHHHH :angry:

Jonah

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Sorry to hear about that. Disappointing when things like that happen. I am curious - did you have the rubber caps on the bleeder bolt? When I bled my brakes last year or so, all the bolts opened up easy except the one without the cap. To resolve it,I taped it gently, soaked it in liquid wrench, and the next day heated and cooled it. It opened up easily after that. What I am saying is that those rubber caps on the bleeded are very important to maintain movement for the bleeder. As a lesson for others, don't force the bleeder bolt - remember it's hollow in the middle.

Prep if the bolt has not been opened in years!!!

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Funny thing is, this one did have a cap on it.

One of the fronts had a cap and one didnt, and for some reason the one without the cap opened easier, but they were both rusted pretty tight, but came out.

I bought 4 new bleeders and was planning on putting them on, but now I have a new problem.

I normally coat the whole bleeder in RTV, then peel it off when I go to do the brakes next, and they are like new.

This was a rear, so it was in pretty bad shape. I plan to try to easy it out with the help of PB blaster and a torch, and if that doesnt work, Ive found a kit where you can drill out the bleeder, and thread in a larger "repair" sleeve, and then screw a bleeder into this sleeve. If not, it looks like I can get a new one for about $150.

Ive yet to find replacement caps for bleeders, for some reason autozone and advance auto carry bleeders and not caps. I guess you have to go to the dealer. Ive got a 97 Deville Im parting out right now, so Im going to look for caps on it before it goes out.

Jonah

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Forget attemoting to use the easy out on the broken bleeder screw as it is it will just snap off too... At this point, you have nothing to lose with the old caliper so here's what I'd try: Remove the caliper from the car and plug the brake line so it doesn't drain the fluid. Place several shop rags in the inside portion of the caliper to catch the piston. Loosen the dust boot from the piston and clean it with denatured alcohol. Apply shop air to the brake line inlet port - keep your fingers out of the way or you could be injured very badly when the piston pops out of the bore. Keep applying shop air in short bursts and then keep working the dust boot loose from the piston. Once the piston pops out, place it somewhere where it won't get damaged. If you're lucky, the boot will still be good, if not, proceed to the last sentenence in this post.

Remove all rubber components from the caliper and then use an oxy-acetylene torch to heat the caliper - get it hot and then use the easy out to back out the bleeder screw. Let the caliper cool and then use crocus cloth to polish the bore. Clean everything with denatured alcohol and reassemble the caliper with a new bleeder screw.

You could also install a remanufactured caliper. I wouldn't drill out the old bleeder screw as I'd be concerned with getting the chips into the caliper reservoir.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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KHE has given you very good advice.............IF your original plan fails, as mine often do! Anyway I just want to add that vacuum hose "nipples", which should be available in parts stores, make a good substitute for "real" brake bleeder caps. Look in the bubble pak section of the store :) .

Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed.

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KHE,

Thanks for the advice, this is along the lines of what I wanted to do... Thanks for the step by steps.

Should I buy a caliper rebuild kit instead of reinstalling the used hardware?

What is everyones thoughs about which type of easy out to use? I have the twist type at home, but Ive read online that the square "pound in" ones may be stronger, but I dont want to expand the bleeder and make it harder to remove.

Also, has anyone had any experience with a company called A1Cardone? They sell calipers which appear to be reman. I am going to call them tomorrow to see if they are reman caddy calipers or if they could be aftermarket.

Thanks for the advice everyone

Jonah

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If I cant get it to easy out, and I dont F up and break the easy out off in it, would it be a problem to drill it out and install the repair sleeve since I will already have the caliper pulled apart and I can clean out any shavings?

Also, KHE, where might I find the crocus cloth? I found it through 3M online, but it says it is no longer manufactured.

Jonah

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KHE,

Thanks for the advice, this is along the lines of what I wanted to do... Thanks for the step by steps.

Should I buy a caliper rebuild kit instead of reinstalling the used hardware?

What is everyones thoughs about which type of easy out to use? I have the twist type at home, but Ive read online that the square "pound in" ones may be stronger, but I dont want to expand the bleeder and make it harder to remove.

Also, has anyone had any experience with a company called A1Cardone? They sell calipers which appear to be reman. I am going to call them tomorrow to see if they are reman caddy calipers or if they could be aftermarket.

Thanks for the advice everyone

If you can find a caliper rebuild kit, it would be a good idea to buy one. My guess is the price will be very close to a reman caliper. It is ridiculous what they charge for a rubber boot and an o-ring... A1Cardone sounds like an Autozone part... I usually stay as far away from Autozone parts as I can.

If you have access to an oxy-acetylene or oxy-mapp gas torch, you can use the twist type easy out. You need the oxygen enrichment in order to get the caliper casting hot enough. A regular propane torch won't cut it.

If I cant get it to easy out, and I dont F up and break the easy out off in it, would it be a problem to drill it out and install the repair sleeve since I will already have the caliper pulled apart and I can clean out any shavings?

Also, KHE, where might I find the crocus cloth? I found it through 3M online, but it says it is no longer manufactured.

If you can clean out the shavings with the caliper apart, installing the sleeve shouldn't present an issue.

I didn't know crocus cloth was discontinued??? Maybe a local hardware store (not the big box stores such as Lowes, Home Depot, etc.) might still have some. You could also email 3M and ask them what abrasive they might have that would be equivalent. My guess would be 1000 grit wet-or-dry but verify it with 3M.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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Yea Cardone is a reman. caliper that can be bought from autozone or advance or one of them. If it comes to that, I will buy a new one from gmpartsdirect, its about 50 bucks more, but Ill feel better about it, and I dont think there is a core charge so Ill have the old caliper to mess with/sell.

Ive got an oxy-acetylene torch at home, gotta refil the oxy but Ive been meaning to do it anyway, I hope they will fill the tank, its pretty old and its been a while since its been refilled.

I will check for crocus cloth at the local hardware shop at home, if not Im sure I can find an equivalent, it seems to be just a finer grit emery cloth. What about a hone kit? I think I have a little honer for calipers in the tool box at home.

I figure if I dont break off the easy out, I can just install the sleeve kit. I might be better off just drilling it out and installing the sleeve kit right off the bat so I dont break off the easy out.

Thanks KHE

Jonah

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BTW... I was only able to find a rebuild kit for the rears through GM... $30... of course the fronts must be a standard kit... its like $5-$10.

I guess I will try to be careful with the seals :unsure:

Jonah

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Sometimes a moderate amount of heat will break a screw/bolt loose. I would try a propane torch first and apply a moderate amount of heat. Depending on how bad the situation is, it might work just enough to break it loose.

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