_DTS_ Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Hi guys. I have a 2002 DTS with 77000 on it. When I hit a bump, the rear end makes a "thud" like sound/feel. What do I need to replace? This is something I've never had to deal with before, so please excuse my ignorance. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Sound like bushings. I think BBF is getting ready to do this. The problem is that the bushings are not replaceable. I think you have to replace the rear knuckle. Someone will chime in shortly to confirm or correct me. http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?sho...mp;#entry112196 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_DTS_ Posted October 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Thanks Ranger, I missed that other thread. I didn't really know what to search for either. I just noticed a clunking noise too, like metal on metal. Thought my exhaust system was on its way out but its new. ETA: I was going up the on-ramp to the freeway in one big curve. When I hit a pothole the rear end seemed to slip out a little bit when I bounced over it. I testthe knuckle pushing it side to side and I can't hear anything. I push down hard on the rear corners and they only boujnce back up one time. The noise I heard was my new exhaust pipe... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 7, 2007 Report Share Posted October 7, 2007 Maybe the pipe was just hung wrong. That would be the lesser of two evils. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_DTS_ Posted October 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 yep, the pipe was hung wrong, I'll fix that tomorrow, but it still doesn't feel like a Caddy, ya know? I'll ask at the dealership when they flush my coolant next weekend to take a look and report back. Thanx again for your help Ranger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolnesss Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 don't let 'em put one of those flushing machines on - just drain the exsting coolant, put in some of the tablets, and refill with 1/2/ dexcool and distilled water. "flushes" can give you old contaminated coolant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_DTS_ Posted October 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 don't let 'em put one of those flushing machines on - just drain the exsting coolant, put in some of the tablets, and refill with 1/2/ dexcool and distilled water. "flushes" can give you old contaminated coolant. Really? My understanding is they will flush the old stuff out with the new 50/50 mix. Didn't GM issue a bulletin saying they stopped using the pellets some time ago? I dare not start another coolant flush thread about the pellets! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 Yes, GM stopped usinig the tabs around 2000 (at least on the Northstars anyway). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruce Nunnally Posted October 8, 2007 Report Share Posted October 8, 2007 http://www.caddyinfo.com/howtocoolant.htm Bruce 2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing Follow me on: Twitter Instagram Youtube Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnnyG Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 Boy, it was refreshing to read the words of the Great bbobynski (AKA the Guru) again in this link: http://www.caddyinfo.com/howtocoolant.htm Anyone wanting to know what they missed during that often referred to period should read every single word of this link. And memorize them if possible. I must now take a few steps back on a recent post or thread that I started. This link clearly indicates that poorly maintained coolant can result in leaking head gaskets...regardless of headbolt corrosion. And I completely forgot about "hot transport deposition corrosion"! How dumb can I get? At any rate, I changed my coolant this last weekend. So here are a few little tidbits of information that you might find useful: First, remove the intake resonator and the air filter, complete with the housing (both sides), and the front plastic cover above the radiator, it will help you get the lower RAD hose off, where you should add the sealant. NEVER add the sealant to the overflow (reservoir) tank! It is vitaly important that you maintain an EXACT 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water in the engine. If anybody wants to check THEIR concentration, using an indicator for that purpose, the freeze protection should be -20°F to -34°F and the boilover protection should be +263°F to +265°F. and should not differ from those numbers by more than 3 degrees. It takes exactly two gallons of premixed 50/50 antifreeze to do the job, and one tube of sealant powder (or the GM tabs, which need to be smashed anyway). That means ONE gallon of antifreeze (the pure stuff) and ONE gallon of distilled water will be plenty to do the job, or TWO gallons of premix. If you check your concentration beforehand and find it a little off, you may need to do a little adjusting of the mixture before you add the premix. Just drain the old coolant out, then make your adjustments, and then add the new stuff. A shop vac, with a blow connection, will get a LITTLE bit more old stuff out, just stick it in the reservoir. I also wrote once that I was against using the premix coolant. This was when they were charging the same for premix as they were to the 50/50 stuff. I have recently found that the prices now reflect the concentration more accurately, and am now behind the premix idea 100%. I chose to use Prestone brand this last time, not being able to find Texaco brand product....I think it will be fine. Never underestimate the amount of a persons greed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_DTS_ Posted October 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 http://www.caddyinfo.com/howtocoolant.htm Great read, I learned alot! I think I will be doing this myself and saving 80 bucks! Thanks, Caddyinfo! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted October 9, 2007 Report Share Posted October 9, 2007 I thought I remembered him saying this, but never could find it. "The green coolant has a silicate based corrosion inhibitor and DexCool has an organic acid based corrosion inhibitor. The silicates in the green coolant get depleted over time and the corrosion protection diminishes dramatically. That is why it needs frequent replacement. The DexCool lasts virtually forever due to the different chemistry in the corrosion inhibitor." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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