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STOP ENGINE NOW


Jeff

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:blink:

Well, the new board looks good...

Last night it got down to about 18 with a 25-30 mph North wind all night. (Texas)

The car said it was 24 when I cranked up this morning. Heard a ticking sound under the hood. It went away when the temp gauge started to move. I had driven about 4-5 miles on my way to work and in my sleepless stupor, I had not been watching my gauges. :huh:

The car starts yelling, "STOP ENGINE NOW"

Then says, "ENGINE COOLANT HOT"

The gauge was just entering the Red Zone when I pulled off the road, but by the time I got it stopped, it was pegged out- it said, "ENGINE OVERHEATED" and I turned her off.

So I opened the hood and nothing... No hissing- no steaming- no boiling or crackling- no water leaking- just nothing. It didn't even feel hot. No hotter than usual any way.

I had my wife come pick me up and I haven't looked at it since. I thought I should consult my board of directors first. Could my thermostat freeze shut overnight? Could it be a false reading? I don't think it got hot- but if it did, what should I do? I would know what to do to some old Chevy or something, but I want to do my baby right! Thanks-

Jeff

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Maybe the anti-freeze didn't antifreeze?

I would think a coolant change and oil change would be the first order of the day. A pressure test of the cooling system, along with a hose check as part of the coolant change would also be prudent.

Bruce

2023 Cadillac CT4-V Blackwing

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It could be a bad temp sensor. Just in case it did overheat, I'd definately change the coolant (adding the pellets) and change the oil and filter. Even if it didn't really overheat, it doesn't hurt to change those things anyway. Did you check your antifreeze level?

Jeff

Jeff

98 Concours

90 Seville

04 Corvette

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What is the best antifreeze to use? I have heard people mention Bars Gold Seal, too. What do you recommend? Do you think there was any damage? What should I look for? Thanks again-

Jeff

:rolleyes:

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I doubt there was any damage. Where is the car now...did you get it back home? I'd change the oil and filter, and drain and refill the coolant. Add two tubes of the Bars Leaks "Golden Seal" to the lower radiator hose. Go ahead and get a new thermostat from your GM dealer and toss it in there while you're changing the coolant. You'll be physically looking at it anyway, so you might as well change it. After you change the thermostat and the fluids, start it up and check for leaks. Rev the engine to 3000 rpm or so a few times to purge the system of any air that may be trapped in there giving you a false reading. Let it set and idle for a half hour to verify that the thermostat and cooling fans are keeping the temperature at the normal level. After you're comfortable everything is back in order, I'd take it out and start driving it again; drive it on your normal routes and monitor the coolant temperature to make sure everything's working properly. If you haven't done it yet, add the coolant temp readout to the DIC so you can monitor what the coolant temperature actually is.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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The car is still where I left it- didn't want to move. It's at a friend's gas station so it will be safe. How do I add the temp to the DIC? Will it show the actual number? AND... is the Bar's stuff the one you have to crush or is it already a powder? Thanks-

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Yes, the DIC will show the actual temperature -- well, in increments of 2 or 4 degrees. For example, jumps from 188 to 190, but other than that, it works great. To add this display to your DIC, add the value of 64 to the IPS05 "Option E" override in the IPC data section.

If the above instructions are clear, great. If they sound like greek, I'll explain further. :)

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

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Jeff,

Bill always recomends Texaco/Havolin Dexcool. That is the factory fill and was developed by them & GM if I remember correctly. That is what I used. Having said that, I think any major brand will work fine.

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Thanks Larry- I went ahead and used Prestone Dexcool ??

Jason- This DIC thing does sound like greek- I have checked codes and activated a key remote once, and that's about the extent of my experience? B)

What all can you do with that thing?? :o

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If that is the NS engine it will go many many miles with NO water, and was actually designed to do so. I doubt that you did any damage. Butthere is a problem ony to be fixed with a proper run through diagnosis. My seat of the pants guess is a stuck thermostat. If the car don't say that it is hot when you start it cold, I'd think that the sensor is ok. Sometimes the insides of hoses tear, and block passages, but in your year, id say not likely. You could have air in the system, that could be. I just don't think you are in as much trouble as you could be. It's a great engine and overheating problems is not a big complaint, they run a lot of northstars in planes. If they can land one after an overheat light, I know you can get away with what you did. MC

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Thanks for the reassurance- I sure hate to sound stupid- BUT...

is the thermostat in the neck of the top radiator hose like most cars? Is there a housing gasket or just the rubber seal on the thermostat? Any advice before I take the plunge? I know it ain't that hard- I just want to avoid any unnecessary work! :D

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The thermostat is in the bottom stamped steel neck on the Northstars, not the top. Two bolts hold the neck on. The thermostat has a split rubber gasket that slips onto the edge of the thermostat. Also get an AC Delco thermostat. There are some aftermarket thermos out there that look like the specialized (reverse flow) thermos used in the Northstars but either aren't the wax pellet OEM style or even worse don"t open up as far as the OEM.

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I just wrote someone on this same issue. This happened to me before, on a another auto. If you let the car sit and warm up there is a good chance the thermostat will not open right in cold weather. I recommend let warm just for a few moments and then drive very easy, until engine is warm. This forces alot more water towards the thermostat. Good Luck

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Guru, What you are saying is the circulation stays the same at 800 rpm and 2000rpm. Isn't more heat generated faster and more evenly into the coolant in drive , with a load. My thought is that it will open , or snap open thermostat , rather than slow open at idle and get stuck, because the heat is slower. Yes the time it happened to me , the coolant mixture was not good as it should have been, it was not a caddy. But I have never had an overheating problem in extreme cold weather after that, because I don't let car sit and idle for 10 min. Thanks for your input.

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