jcobz28 Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I've never used a torque-angle procedure before, so I just want to double check that this instrument is what I need before I order it. Lisle Tool SPX tool So, how do these work? Basically, I put it on my regular micrometer style 1/2" drive torque wrench between the wrench and the socket? Tighten to initial torque spec, and then watch the angle meter for subsequent passes? Will either of these 2 meters suffice? I would rather buy the SPX one since its only $10, as long as it will do the job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 6, 2007 Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 I have the Lisle tool - the flexible clamp makes it easy to restrain the lower scale. The SPX meter appears to use a fixed stop which may make it harder to use. Use your micrometer type wrench only to tighten the bolts to the initial torque. Use a 1/2" breaker bar with the torque angle meter. You will need to get used to how the springback of the headbolt affects the meter reading - in other words, the meter may read 70 degrees but when you release most of the tension, it will be down to 60 degrees. You'll get used to it after the first bolt. I would make a diagram of the head bolts and check them off after tightening them - that way, you won't lose your place. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jcobz28 Posted April 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2007 Thanks again! I'll order the Lisle gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zonie77 Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Marking the bolts is a good idea. If you should lose your place you can loosen and retorque the bolts. It will not cause a problem until the are heat cycled a few times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 I did a dogpile search on "torque to yield fasteners" for background and turned up this really excellent article: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20134.htm It's short enough to read in a few minutes but has enough information to make the typical DIY feel that he/she really understands old and new torqued bolts on the head, crankshaft and rods of an engine, and the latest head bolt technology -- torque to yield. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted April 7, 2007 Report Share Posted April 7, 2007 Very interesting and educational reading. Thanks Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted April 9, 2007 Report Share Posted April 9, 2007 I did a dogpile search on "torque to yield fasteners" for background and turned up this really excellent article: http://www.babcox.com/editorial/ar/ar20134.htm It's short enough to read in a few minutes but has enough information to make the typical DIY feel that he/she really understands old and new torqued bolts on the head, crankshaft and rods of an engine, and the latest head bolt technology -- torque to yield. Interesting article but the Northstar head bolts are not torque to yield bolts. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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