kensala313 Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 i was checking my pcv valve for the first time since ive had the car (30,000 miles) and when i pulled it off, it looked clean and in good shape, but when i shook it, the little pin on the inside rattled quite a bit. the guy att the parts store said "uhhhhhhhhh, that means its good" but it sounded like hes not the brightest guy in the world. is the rattleing alright??? do you guys usually just replace the thing for a few bucks?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 He is correct if its loose and rattles when you shake its good, vacuum closes it... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I never replaced one. They always rattle. Never saw one that was gummed up and did not rattle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I saw a stuck PCV valve on a 1965 Plymouth Fury with a 318 cid engine and two-barrel carburetor. At 30,000 miles, it was burning oil, and the little old lady that owned it dumped it. I was looking for a ride at the time and picked it up. I changed the PCV valve, which was stuck, changed the oil, and did a thorough tune-up (it was two years old, with a distributor and points) and drove it event-free for years. But, yes, it's the only stuck PCV valve I have ever seen. But, I change them anyway when they might be suspect because there is always the possibility that it isn't sealing, or that it seals completely with vacuum. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kensala313 Posted February 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 cool, thanks for the info. chiltons book says they should be serviced every 30,000 miles. what the heck is there to service??? or do they just mean replace? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrick7997 Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 Replace. They are very cheap, 2 or 3 bucks.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cadillac Jim Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I've seen books that say to wash them with solvent, dry and clean them. Once dry, blow shop air through them both ways. One way they should stop (this is to keep backfires out of the crankcase) and the other they should meter flow -- restrict, but not stop, air flow -- to allow positive crankcase ventilation with controlled air leakage into the intake for good mixture control. If you don't have an auto parts store handy you can do that. -- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data -- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkz71 Posted February 4, 2007 Report Share Posted February 4, 2007 I never replaced one. They always rattle. Never saw one that was gummed up and did not rattle. I have, they get gummed up inside when they are over due for replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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