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Blower Housing Falling Apart


MAC

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Yesterday I decided to replace the Bosch double platinum plugs with ACDelco platinum. When I removed the coil pack assembly to replace the rear plugs I noticed the plastic blower motor housing attached to the firewall is cracked and is starting to fall apart. It looks like it would be a real pain to replace. Is it difficult to replace or can I get away with gluing it?

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It's actually made of a stiff rubber material. Over time heat hardens it up and it starts to crack. By the book you have to drop the powertrain to replace it, but I've heard of at least one person just tilting down the front of the sub-frame (cradle) to replace it. It's called an insulator or blower case cover, part # 52491785 and your looking at about $100-$115 for one. Or you can try black RTV to patch it up.

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I'm going to have to address this problem quickly before pieces start to fall off.

What about using fiberglass or maybe epoxy with mesh or some other coating to stabilize it. There must be something out there that will handle heat and be able to keep the housing together.

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Mac,

Try some self stick mesh type drywall tape. Then liberally trowel on clear or black 100% silicone caulk. You may not be able to "trowel" it but a rubber glove should allow you smear it on pretty liberally. That outa hold it together.

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I'm going to have to address this problem quickly before pieces start to fall off.

What about using fiberglass or maybe epoxy with mesh or some other coating to stabilize it. There must be something out there that will handle heat and be able to keep the housing together.

It's really not "THE" housing. Its a unsulator/cover for the actual metal housing underneath.

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I cut through mine when replacing the blower (there are markings on the case as to where the cuts should be made), and there some bits broke off in the process. After bolting everthing back in I used aluminum tape to reinforce and close up the seams. That was about 4 years ago, its still holding with no problem.

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Someone here once described using a pair of tin snips to cut an aluminum soda can to shape a patch and then attaching with an adhesive of some sort, maybe RTV silicone. Then black paint followed.

As I recall he sounded pleased with the results.

Regards,

Warren

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There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

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Mac,

Try some self stick mesh type drywall tape. Then liberally trowel on clear or black 100% silicone caulk. You may not be able to "trowel" it but a rubber glove should allow you smear it on pretty liberally. That outa hold it together.

Sounds like THE plan to me. I'd use the black though.

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It's really not "THE" housing. Its a unsulator/cover for the actual metal housing underneath.

Sorry about that--I repeated the same error as in my first post by calling it "housing."

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Mac,

Try some self stick mesh type drywall tape. Then liberally trowel on clear or black 100% silicone caulk. You may not be able to "trowel" it but a rubber glove should allow you smear it on pretty liberally. That outa hold it together.

The silicone and drywall tape sounds like a good option.

I was also thinking about the other option mentioned, which is to find something pliable and use adhesive to apply it. But I think the best option at this point is using high temp silicone and drywall tape. I don't want the job to look crappy though.

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If you can get some type of a trowel in there, you could smooth it some, but it is pretty tight. At this point I'd be more concerned with holding it together than appearence, because if you have to R & R it, that means engine removal from what I hear.

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I'm going to have to address this problem quickly before pieces start to fall off.

What about using fiberglass or maybe epoxy with mesh or some other coating to stabilize it. There must be something out there that will handle heat and be able to keep the housing together.

You could try a product called milliput, it is a two part clay epoxy. Mix one part A. with one part B. work together for about 5 minutes then shape and apply to whatever. It turns rock hard in about 4 hours.

http://www.milliput.co.uk/home.htm

The two sticks have a long shelf life but once mixed the resultant putty is at first soft and highly adhesive and then gradually hardens. Speed of hardening is dependant on temperature and at normal temperatures (20-25ºC) Milliput becomes rock hard in three to four hours. By the application of heat the setting time can be reduced to a few minutes.

After setting hard Milliput continues to cure and is fully cured after an elapse of time equal to the setting time at the same temperature. Once fully cured Milliput can be machined, drilled, tapped, turned, filed, sawn, sandpapered and painted. Milliput can be sandpapered and painted immediately it has set. (it is advisable to wear eye protection during this process).

Milliput is an excellent adhesive and will bond any of the following to itself or to any of the others - wood, brick, cement, metals, concrete, plastics, glass etc, but note that Milliput is not intended as a thin layer adhesive and should not be used where a paste, mucilage or thin glue is indicated. Milliput will set under water and is heat resistant up to 130°C.

I originally purchased it to make mold masters...But now use it for all sorts of oddball things... Their site even indicates it can be used on radiators, car batteries(?) "petrol tanks" :lol: etc. I keep two packages of it on hand at all times.

What I would do is work the clay into a couple long spaghetti strands, then wrap the housing in a cross/star pattern ( with the edges of each of the strands wrapped around the sides). Let the strands dry, then sand (if you want to go the extra mile) and pant!..Should work like a charm!

Also, you can "tool" the clay to the plastic (edges) using a bit of water and a flathead screwdriver. Just remember to wipe with a damp towel afterwards.

I get my M.P. from micro-mark.. http://www.micromark.com/. You all will probably like this site...Lots of cool little gadgets you can't get anywhere else! I believe they automatically send you a catalogue. If they don't be sure and ask for one!

Also you might want to get the complete sculpting set (81007). It comes with two packages of M.P. and two sculpting tools, which are much better than a flathead screwdriver. However a small screwdriver will work, in a pinch ;)

A.J.

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We repaird 95canadiansts's 96 STS with plexiglass and black caulking.

It worked great, and is still holding up after 2 years.

Big Jay

Life is too short to grow up!

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I replaced the cover on my '97 STS when I had the engne out for Timeserting last spring - I think the cover was $65 from Brasingtons. The old one was falling apart and every time I bumped it with a wrench, more chunks fell to the ground. Even with the engine out, it was a SOB to get the new cover in place as a structural member was very close to the housing on the lower passenger side. I would try the method Larry (Ranger) suggested.

Kevin
'93 Fleetwood Brougham
'05 Deville
'04 Deville
2013 Silverado Z71

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