rmac-etc Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I am currently replacing the rear brake pads on my 95 etc (150k). I am turning the piston with the cube tool with no problem but it doesn't seem to be receding into the cylinder. Is there something in addition to turning the piston that has to be done to make that happen? I have turned it quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 I usually exert pressure inward while turning the piston and that seems to work. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted November 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 thanks for the quick reply, i've done the front many times, this is my first time with the rear ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 Also, opening the bleeder valve will make it much easier to turn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nigel Posted November 6, 2006 Report Share Posted November 6, 2006 you should always open the bleeder screw and clamp the brake hose when winding/pushing the caliper pistons back on cars fitted with ABS. if you don't you risk pushing contaminated fluid into the ABS pump which has a good chance of ruining the pump/valves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kcd1184 Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 I recently did the rear brakes on my 94 Eldo and it does seem to take a while for the piston to screw back in. Keep turning. Keep an eye on the rubber boot so it doesn' get ripped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Regarding the rubber boot, be sure to clean it off beforehand, and make sure it folds back in evenly and neatly as the piston goes in. It does take forever it seems to get the piston in. You should see SOME progress after a few turns though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 First thing I would do is suck out about half the brake fluid out of the master cylinder. When you screw the pistons in the fluid will go up esp with new pads it will save you a mess then just top it off when done with the pads No problem with the rear calipers just screw them in it takes quite a few turns no need to mess with the bleeder you will just make more work than you have to. Good Luck Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 ....no need to mess with the bleeder you will just make more work than you have to. Some of us would disagree that opening the bleeder valve increases the work involved since the brake plumbing should be flushed/purged/bled anyway. http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=9823 Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 Bleeding the brakes does not need to be done if the fluid has been changed recently I just changed all 4 rotors & pads on the 01 deville the brake fluid was changed & flushed last year with ATE super blue I felt is was not worth bleeding the system this time I change out the brake fluid every 2 yrs so I didn't feel it needed to be done in my case I don't know when the last time rmac did his car I assume it was recent enough so he would not have to beleed & flush the sys. Next time I do mine I will go with the clear (amber)ate racing fluid so that way I know when it flushed when I get clear fluid The same applied when I put the blue in when I was getting all blue fluid I was clean & flushed. It's a case by case basis if your brakes need bleeding. Thanks for the tip Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canadian95sts Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 quick question here, im going to be doing the rear brakes on my 96 STS very soon, I have never had to do them on this car before, do the pistons on the rear need to be turned back into the caliper for this year/model, or cani just push them in with a c- clamp? thanks in advance, Matt A good friend will come and bail you out of jail...BUT, a true friend will be sitting next to you saying, "darn...that was fun!" www.madd.ca Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDWRIOR Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 quick question here, im going to be doing the rear brakes on my 96 STS very soon, I have never had to do them on this car before, do the pistons on the rear need to be turned back into the caliper for this year/model, or cani just push them in with a c- clamp? thanks in advance, Matt Matt, Your '96 STS has rear brakes that are essentially identical to those of the '95 Eldo that was the original subject of this thread. Thus, you also will need to use a special tool to "turn" the piston back into its bore in the caliper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted November 7, 2006 Report Share Posted November 7, 2006 quick question here, im going to be doing the rear brakes on my 96 STS very soon, I have never had to do them on this car before, do the pistons on the rear need to be turned back into the caliper for this year/model, or cani just push them in with a c- clamp? thanks in advance, Matt Matt, Your '96 STS has rear brakes that are essentially identical to those of the '95 Eldo that was the original subject of this thread. Thus, you also will need to use a special tool to "turn" the piston back into its bore in the caliper. That special tool is called a disk brake piston cube. Any auto store should have it. Here's what they look like: http://www.autobarn.net/cta1455c.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmac-etc Posted November 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Well, the job is successfully done, and as usual, thanks for all the help. ... but I am intrigued. Why do we need to turn the piston? It's not threaded, so what is going on inside there? What does turning it accomplish, why can't it just be pushed in like the front? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve6 Posted November 8, 2006 Report Share Posted November 8, 2006 Well, the job is successfully done, and as usual, thanks for all the help. ... but I am intrigued. Why do we need to turn the piston? It's not threaded, so what is going on inside there? What does turning it accomplish, why can't it just be pushed in like the front? The Emergency Brake is what makes the difference.....I've never rebuilt a rear caliper myself, but I know the turning has something to do with how the e-brake goes in and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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