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95 STS need value


quangvang

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youll get a grand max for it

i may be interested pending on how bad the engine is and where your located

1g max? oh well. not much, but better than nothing. thanks for that info.

i asked the guy at the dealership and his tech just commented something along the lines of "major work needed". however, maybe i can describe a bit and hopefully you guys will know better than me. while driving, i heard a loud clunk sound like something dropped, then some sound like debris falling. it seemed to be in the area of where the oil is. thats where the smoke was coming from and there was a nice huge puddle of motor oil where i stopped. when you apply the accelerator, it doesn't go at all. it's not like it revs, but wheels dont turn. its nothing. i tried restarting the car once. it has the sound of turning over, but another really bad sound and it wouldnt restart anyway, so i didnt want to keep on trying and mess it up more.

in summary, i am told the engine is pretty much fried and needs to be replaced. i dont know the exact problem, but no acceleration and something broken that would cause all the oil to gush out might be clues, hopefully. sorry i cant tell you exactly how bad it is.

i am in the southern california area.

any help on specific problem and/or any interest in buying the green machine is appreciated

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It sounds like it might be the transmission. That isn't much good news. The value of the car is the maximum of its KBB value minus the cost of a rebuilt engine/transmission and installation, or its parts value, whichever is greater. If you've kept the car nice inside and out, the KBB shows about $5K private party sale value for typical accessories. For a rebuilt engine of about $3,500 and installation of $1,500, you're looking at parts value. I don't information on transmission costs, which are lower but still expensive.

You might get the codes off of it and post them here. That will likely tell us whether it is the engine or the transmission. The process for getting the codes is here:

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Basically, you press the air conditioning "On" and the passenger side temperature "Warmer" rocker at the same time for 15 seconds, at which time all the lights on the dashboard and the A/C will light up. Then, the message center under the speedometer and tachometer, between the odometer and the trip odometer, will read the codes one at a time. Each trouble code begins with a system letter: E for Engine and transmission, P for PCM, I for IPC, A for ACP, R for SIR, T for TCS, S for RSS, plus a three digit code identifier, and ends with the letter C or H. The final digit of the code, a "C" or "H" is used to indicate whether the code is Current or History. A "C" means the fault is current while "H" means the failure is a history code. We are most interested in E and P codes, of course.

Here's hoping you can get an exchange rebuilt transmission and have your car back. Show us the codes.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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any idea of parts value? everything is there. with a few odd exceptions.

*Improved sound system

1) not factory speakers. good 3rd party stuff. i think i might even still have the receipt.

2) 2 additional tweeters

3) amp in the trunk

4) 2 pioneer 12" subs in trunk

5) blaupunkt cd player face

however, i still do have the original factory (big black) face (the one w/o a CD player). i figured that can be put back, and i can take out the amp and 2 subs easily (would help add some bump to the home surround sound :D ). i suppose just leave the 2 tweeters and the wiring there. probably wont add any value, but just letting you know.

thanks

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Sounds like a broken connecting rod, if it was the trans it should start back up until engaged in Drive. But trying to drive it after it broke would probably eff up the tranny too.

Also there wouldnt be motor oil with a effed up trans. As for the value, Kelley Blue Book wont even appraise it, so I would go with the best offer. Good Luck

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Sounds like a broken connecting rod, if it was the trans it should start back up until engaged in Drive. But trying to drive it after it broke would probably eff up the tranny too.

Also there wouldnt be motor oil with a effed up trans. As for the value, Kelley Blue Book wont even appraise it, so I would go with the best offer. Good Luck

ya, connecting rod would be a definate good possibility. im not saying the tranny is perfect, but im quite sure it isnt the tranny that caused it to suddenly break down. ya, i figured it isnt worth much, but any idea of what this "best" offer might be? any takers among you guys?

fred, what you got? maybe you could use mine for some parts? lol

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Sounds like a broken connecting rod, if it was the trans it should start back up until engaged in Drive. But trying to drive it after it broke would probably eff up the tranny too.

Also there wouldnt be motor oil with a effed up trans. As for the value, Kelley Blue Book wont even appraise it, so I would go with the best offer. Good Luck

ya, connecting rod would be a definate good possibility. im not saying the tranny is perfect, but im quite sure it isnt the tranny that caused it to suddenly break down. ya, i figured it isnt worth much, but any idea of what this "best" offer might be? any takers among you guys?

fred, what you got? maybe you could use mine for some parts? lol

Same as you pretty much

http://affordablecarats.com/newseville/

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