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cadillac deville 1981 won't start


Adrian12

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hi

I've a problem!

I checked the ISC and TPS and wanted to regulate the idle gas.

and from one day to the other i don't hear the fuel pump if i turn ignition on and start.

the engine won't start, i don't hear the fuel pump so i think the engine gets no fuel and can't start

the diagnostic mode of the ECM doesn't work until same day! "off" and "warmer" goes until ". ." appears but "88" doesn't appear

on turning the ignition on, the check engine light doesn't flash on.

the fuses for the ECM are OK! the 2 orange cables to the ECM have 12V and the pink/black one too. both are on the connector P1 and supply the electrical energy

any ideas what to check or what to do??

idk what the mistake could be, cables inside the car i think they are OK, because the car stood in the garage and i worked on the "coolant sensor, thermostat, and climate compressor" and so from one day to the other i've this problem. could the "center bulkhead connector" be the reason? this is the connector underhood where the cables go inside (i took off the connector one time and reconnected it, but idk what there could be wrong, it fits perfectly)

thanks

Adrian12

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Someone with a 1981 shop manual can help more. My thinking is that if it happend while you were working on the car, it is likely a loose connector or a fuse. Check all the fuses, and look at the connectors on the ECM. The fact that the diagnostic mode starts means that someithing is working in the ECM.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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i've a shop manual but i've no ideas any more what to do, because there is written chech circuit nr.... and this circuit... and so on and last is, check for PROM or faulty ECM and thats my problem. idk where the mistake is.

how can i check a circuit? following the cable is impossible because they are under dash...

and the diagnostic mode doesn't work because ".." appears but not "88" and the trouble codes.

I've checked already all fuses, alle are ok and fixed and have contacts! the connectors at the ECM aren't loose too.

I'm finished and the next us-car-garage is about 300kilometres away and it's too expensive to get the car there.......

I'll check all fuses and connectors again, but I'm sure they are ok

I'm glad about all ideas so if you have some tell me i'll try everything

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Check the fuel pump relay at the contacts with the ignition off to make sure that the actuation coil is grounded. Then, switch to volts and make sure that it isn't getting a signal from the PCM when you turn on the ignition switch. If that shows that the PCM signal is not getting to the fuel pump relay, then all you have left is to check the fuel pump relay output terminal at the PCM to determine that the PCM is bad.

If you need a PCM, I would try to get one through the mail and put it in myself. You might be able to get a used one. You are talking in km instead of miles; are you in Canada or Europe? If in Canada, you can use US parts sources. If in Europe, Germany or Sweden might be a better place to look online.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

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the contacts of the relais are Ok, i put in an other relais too but no change!

I've 12V on one pin of the relais, and on 2 pins on ignition on i've about 0.02V! the last 4th pin has no Volt (this pin goes to the fuel pump)

I'm located in Austria (Europe, a neighbourcountry of Germany) but here the ECMs are expensive.... so i want to try everything possible to be sure that i need an ECM.

is there any possibility to say the relais that it should open? can i put some volts to the 2 pins where only 0.02V are? or is this a bad idea?

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the contacts of the relais are Ok, i put in an other relais too but no change!

I've 12V on one pin of the relais, and on 2 pins on ignition on i've about 0.02V! the last 4th pin has no Volt (this pin goes to the fuel pump)

I'm located in Austria (Europe, a neighbourcountry of Germany) but here the ECMs are expensive.... so i want to try everything possible to be sure that i need an ECM.

is there any possibility to say the relais that it should open? can i put some volts to the 2 pins where only 0.02V are? or is this a bad idea?

To check a relay you should apply 12V to where it is supposed to be applied and check the two other pins for continuity (there should be no resistance between them without 12V applied and zero resistance after 12V are applied).

Austria (Europe, a neighbourcountry of Germany) ... nice. :lol: Is the Netherlands and Holland the same country? :lol:

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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sry i'm stupid but i don't understand anything^^

ähm how do i know where on the relais i've to apply the 12V

and what do you mean with check the two other pins for continuity (i can't imagine what you mean, my english is not the best)

and the last point i don't understand is:

there should be no resistance between them without 12V applied and zero resistance after 12V are applied

no resistance and zero resistense is both the same isn't it ???!?!?!!?!!!!???

it is netherlands, holland is a slang-word you could say, official it's called "niederlande" in english "netherlands" but holland you can say too. it's the same country, north of germany ;)

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sry i'm stupid but i don't understand anything^^

ähm how do i know where on the relais i've to apply the 12V

and what do you mean with check the two other pins for continuity (i can't imagine what you mean, my english is not the best)

and the last point i don't understand is:

there should be no resistance between them without 12V applied and zero resistance after 12V are applied

no resistance and zero resistense is both the same isn't it ???!?!?!!?!!!!???

it is netherlands, holland is a slang-word you could say, official it's called "niederlande" in english "netherlands" but holland you can say too. it's the same country, north of germany ;)

Oh, sorry. If you pull the relay out you'll se a diagram on it. You will figure out intuitively where 12V should be applied. Position your multimeter (tester) leads at two other pins. There should be unlimited resistance (no continuity) when 12V are not applied and zero resistance (sure it is not zero to be accurate, but very close) when 12V are applied. You should also hear the relay clicking.

Thanks for Holland, I was just kidding. The geography is not something most of Americans would care of. LOL

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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