Jump to content
CaddyInfo Cadillac Forum

Aftermarket shocks/struts??


Rickm6

Recommended Posts

Has anyone installed aftermarket shocks/struts on a 99 or later STS? I want to stiffen this thing up a bit and would like to go to a high quality strut/shock with Eibach springs. Seems to me I read about sensor problems? Or other issues. Is there anyone here thats done it that can let me know their experience?

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


The give isn't in the struts, it's in the tires. If you want to stiffen it up, leave the struts alone and either get harder tires or 18 inch wheels. You'll save a ton of money and you'll have to get better tires to get it to handle anyway -- and you'll keep the active suspension, full functionality of Stabiltrak, etc. I have Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires on production 16 inch wheels and they are hard as a rock. Handling is truly amazing.

If I were to buy today, I would get the tire with the best cornering stability rating, the Bridgestone Potenza Potenza RE 960 AS Pole Position. The Tire Rack page:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...S+Pole+Position

It's a four-season tire and it comes in 225/60-16. It's slightly better handling than the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S and gives a better ride.

If you want the best handling there is, get a summer tire. Sorting by cornering stability, the highest rated tire on Tire Rack's web site is the Bridgestone RE 050 AS Pole Position. It's Tire Rack page:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?ti...A+Pole+Position

Problem: the summer tire doesn't come in 225/60-16. It's a candidate if you get 18-inch or 19-inch wheels, which will be even better for handling anyway. Be sure and match the diameter or revolutions per mile of the 225/60-16.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Jim but I've already done that. I'm running 255-50-17 Kumho Ecsta 712's. Absolutely love them....and yes it did make a big difference. Thing is my background is in sports cars so this thing is quite a boat compared to sports cars I'm used to and I've really enjoyed all the cars that I've put Eibachs on with quality struts. It truely makes a world of difference.

The STS now has 60K miles on her and I can feel the struts getting softer and softer, just doesn't handle like she used to when she was new. So...its either spend a couple thousand(?) on new struts/shocks to bring her back to the mediocre stock handling or $1500 for a much higher quality spring and strut/shock combination.

Like every manufacturer Cadillac developed the STS to satisfy their average buyer. Although they may be looking for a sport sedan, keep in mind the average STS buyer was 62 years old back in 1999. Few cars, even sports cars, have the suspension a true enthusiast would like. Manufacturers are after sales and few average buyers would buy a car with a true sports car suspension, or even a very firm one.

My tastes are out of the ordinary, I realize...but I love getting into a car that handles as well as it looks.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has anyone installed aftermarket shocks/struts on a 99 or later STS? I want to stiffen this thing up a bit and would like to go to a high quality strut/shock with Eibach springs. Seems to me I read about sensor problems? Or other issues. Is there anyone here thats done it that can let me know their experience?

Thanks.

If you decide to go with aftermarket pieces, do not worry about the DTCs and messages that will result from having "passive" struts and shocks installed. I can tell you how to fool the system with $1.00 worth of parts.

Can't help you obtain the handling you are looking for; kind of a challenge to get sure enough sporty performance from a 4,000+ pound luxury sedan.

There is a strut tower brace available that will make a "feelable" difference in turn-in. Order part #25653157 from your favorite GM parts source.

Good luck with it.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

JimD,

So the computer WILL throw codes back at me with a different suspension! Do you know if there will be issues with anti lock or traction control?

I believe the Eibachs lower the car about 3/4 of an inch.

Jim, I'm not expecting miracles, but stiffer progressive quality springs has made a world of difference on every car I've had.

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When you fool the CVRSS module into believing the strut/shock damper valves are present, there will be zero suspension codes. ABS and traction control will operate as normal.

The selection of aftermarket non-electric struts is going to be limited. Gabriel, Monroe, and ACDelco offer replacement parts, but I was not able to find a competition, or off-road, brand strut for my '98. Be aware that the '98 to '04 Seville suspension is totally different from the earlier models.

There are mixed reviews of the Boston Suspension and Strutmaster strut "kits". As far as I know, neither of these companies manufacture struts; they must be reselling Gabriel, Monroe, or ACDleco parts packaged for convenience. I voted for OEM parts with my hard-earned dollars.

One other point. You might have to adjust the suspension position sensors to compensate for the lowered ride height if you drop the suspension 3/4".

Keep us informed of your findings.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It's possible that Stabilitrak won't be hurt by the passive struts. If they go to the siffest setting when Stabiltrak goes into action, and they are already stiffer than the stock struts with the signal to go stiffest, then Stabilitrak will operate just fine. If Stabilitrak stiffens one but not the other, or if it modulates the stiffness, then that won't be working, and Stabiltrak won't know it.

I've had a few sports cars in my time and I understand. When you talk to people and they consider good cornering to be lean control, you know that they don't get it.

Monroe and Gabriel make aftermarket shocks for passenger cars. You might look at vendors who sell true performance parts for sports cars. If you don't see the 1998 STS listed online, call them and be prepared to be very polite and patient while you drill two levels into their tech support.

For example, I see that Koni offers Sportkits, and they feature a photo of a strut with a variable-rate spring on that page. No catalog; worth a call.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"If you decide to go with aftermarket pieces, do not worry about the DTCs and messages that will result from having "passive" struts and shocks installed. I can tell you how to fool the system with $1.00 worth of parts. "

JimD, can I get that info from you please.

You can email me, fax me or post it here.

Thanks so much,

Rick

promo_dude@hotmail.com

JimD,

"There is a strut tower brace available that will make a "feelable" difference in turn-in. Order part #25653157 from your favorite GM parts source."

I did a quick search for the part number you provide and it shows list price of $33.00? Thats a very inexpensive strut brace...is that correct? I didn't know one even existed.

Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 1997 ETC uses strut braces. One is between the radiator mount and the fender mount and must be removed to get the battery in and out. The other one is symmetrically located on the driver's side. They stopped using them on the STS in 1998 with the platform change. I thought it was because they had a stiffer chassis, but apparently the bolt holes are still there and adding them can help.

CTS-V_LateralGs_6-2018_tiny.jpg
-- Click Here for CaddyInfo page on "How To" Read Your OBD Codes
-- Click Here for my personal page to download my OBD code list as an Excel file, plus other Cadillac data
-- See my CaddyInfo car blogs: 2011 CTS-V, 1997 ETC
Yes, I was Jims_97_ETC before I changed cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted Image

There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises

Link to comment
Share on other sites

"If you decide to go with aftermarket pieces, do not worry about the DTCs and messages that will result from having "passive" struts and shocks installed. I can tell you how to fool the system with $1.00 worth of parts. "

JimD, can I get that info from you please.

You can email me, fax me or post it here.

Thanks so much,

Rick

promo_dude@hotmail.com

JimD,

"There is a strut tower brace available that will make a "feelable" difference in turn-in. Order part #25653157 from your favorite GM parts source."

I did a quick search for the part number you provide and it shows list price of $33.00? Thats a very inexpensive strut brace...is that correct? I didn't know one even existed.

Thanks again.

My favorite source of Cadillac parts is Brasington Cadillac-Saab in Florida. They operate a web site but if you call 352-378-5301 you can talk to a humanoid and they will quote the best price and delivery schedule. It seems the brace was an option and showed up on some export (outside of NAFTA) cars.

The work around for the strut damper valve is a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor available in a 5 pack from Radio Shack; catalog #271-1124. Substitute one resistor for each damper valve that is not present.

A word for future readers regarding the resistor values; the 4.7k Ohm is known to work on '98 to '04 Sevilles without Magnaride struts. Owners of other year models will require different values.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 year later...

My rear shocks were leaking on my 2000 DTS w/ Stabiltrak.

The Gabriel aftermarket air shocks work ok except that now the DIC says ‘service suspension… speed limited to 90mph’

Please advise what can be done to a) eliminate the DIC error message and B) go over 90

This can be a saftety issue when passing, otherwise going 88 is cool.

Thank you for your help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rear shocks were leaking on my 2000 DTS w/ Stabiltrak.

The Gabriel aftermarket air shocks work ok except that now the DIC says ‘service suspension… speed limited to 90mph’....

Sounds like the Gabriels really do not "work ok". We need the DTCs that trigger your MESSEGE.

Here is how to display the DTCs....

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My 1997 ETC uses strut braces. One is between the radiator mount and the fender mount and must be removed to get the battery in and out. The other one is symmetrically located on the driver's side.

Jim, you should also have a cross-car brace that connects the two strut towers, yes? My '97 SLS had this brace, and that's the brace (same idea, but different part number) that can be added (cheaply) to the 98-04 Seville chassis. I've got one on my Christmas list. :)

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rear shocks were leaking on my 2000 DTS w/ Stabiltrak.

The Gabriel aftermarket air shocks work ok except that now the DIC says ‘service suspension… speed limited to 90mph’....

Sounds like the Gabriels really do not "work ok". We need the DTCs that trigger your MESSEGE.

Here is how to display the DTCs....

http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html

.............

Of course, the magnificient diagnositc system Cadillac has on board... reports these error codes:

Current: RSS CO589, RSS CO594

History: IPC U1016H, PCM PO 574H, RSS CO587, RSS CO592

Your advice is sincerely appreciated !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rear shocks were leaking on my 2000 DTS w/ Stabiltrak.

The Gabriel aftermarket air shocks work ok except that now the DIC says ‘service suspension… speed limited to 90mph’....

Sounds like the Gabriels really do not "work ok". We need the DTCs that trigger your MESSEGE.

Here is how to display the DTCs....

<a href="http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html" target="_blank">http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html</a>

.............

Of course, the magnificient diagnositc system Cadillac has on board... reports these error codes:

Current: RSS CO589, RSS CO594

History: IPC U1016H, PCM PO 574H, RSS CO587, RSS CO592

Your advice is sincerely appreciated !

These four codes (C0587, 0589, 0592, 0594) are reporting that the rear damper valve solenoids have failed OR are not present. And we know your Gabriel shocks do not have the damper valve solenoid at all.

I'm 99% certain the resistor values I gave in an earlier post will satisfy the CVRSS module and eliminate those codes.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My rear shocks were leaking on my 2000 DTS w/ Stabiltrak.

The Gabriel aftermarket air shocks work ok except that now the DIC says ‘service suspension… speed limited to 90mph’....

Sounds like the Gabriels really do not "work ok". We need the DTCs that trigger your MESSEGE.

Here is how to display the DTCs....

<a href="http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html" target="_blank">http://www.caddyinfo.com/readingcodes.html</a>

.............

Of course, the magnificient diagnositc system Cadillac has on board... reports these error codes:

Current: RSS CO589, RSS CO594

History: IPC U1016H, PCM PO 574H, RSS CO587, RSS CO592

Your advice is sincerely appreciated !

These four codes (C0587, 0589, 0592, 0594) are reporting that the rear damper valve solenoids have failed OR are not present. And we know your Gabriel shocks do not have the damper valve solenoid at all.

I'm 99% certain the resistor values I gave in an earlier post will satisfy the CVRSS module and eliminate those codes.

.......................

Exactly how / where do I put the resistors?

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.......................

Exactly how / where do I put the resistors?

Thanks!

Slip the resistor into the connector at the point where the OEM shocks USED to be connected.

In other words, the resistor is behaving exactly like a "good" solenoid as far as the CVRSS module is concerned.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are basically "jumping" the old harness connection. The resistor is the jumper in this case.

Jason(2001 STS, White Diamond)

"When you turn your car on...does it return the favor?"

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.......................

Exactly how / where do I put the resistors?

Thanks!

Slip the resistor into the connector at the point where the OEM shocks USED to be connected.

In other words, the resistor is behaving exactly like a "good" solenoid as far as the CVRSS module is concerned.

OK...

Do the resistors get soldered in to ensure they will not vibrate out?

Or do I cut off the old connectors of my leaking stabilitrack shocks and use wire nuts? (assuming the schocks cannot be re-built by one of you geniuses and therefore worth a small fortune?)

Regards.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....Or do I cut off the old connectors of my leaking stabilitrack shocks and use wire nuts?....

If it was my car, I would use the old harness/connectors as the 1st choice but forget the wire nuts. Trim the wires down to one inch or so and solder the resistor to the wires, insulate with shrink wrap (heat shrink), plug that into the chassis harness and motor on down the road.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...
The work around for the strut damper valve is a 4.7k Ohm, 1/2 Watt resistor available in a 5 pack from Radio Shack; catalog #271-1124. Substitute one resistor for each damper valve that is not present.

I am in the the process of replacing the rear air shocks, this time its due to the cold weather. I am way up here in Canada 2 weeks ago the temperature was -38 C (with the windchill it was -45) (-36.4 F). We even made the news on CNN. I went to pickup the wife and went over some train tracks not very fast as I don't abuse my car. When all of a sudden I hear a terrible banging noise coming from the rear suspension. I check it out and soon find the top of the shock broken off, it snapped clean off. I had purchased front struts and rear air shcoks from Arnott Dec 06. I called them and they could not believe what happened, they said that they had never heard of that before. I am happy to report Darren from Arnott sent me new rear shocks shipping included. Gotta love that lifetime warranty.

The plug ins to fool the computer are slightly big and cumbersome and are installed with wires ties. I know that all that fools the computer is a resistor so I want to install the resistors using the method explained in the thread. I am going to plug the pigtails into the factory harness with the resistors. I just need confirmation as to the direction of the resistor that needs to be installed. If its of any help the color of the wires on the pigtail is black and white. And no we didn't live in Igloos we are not that far up North.

Thanks for the Replies.

Jeff Wilson

Link to comment
Share on other sites

....I am going to plug the pigtails into the factory harness with the resistors. I just need confirmation as to the direction of the resistor that needs to be installed. If its of any help the color of the wires on the pigtail is black and white....

It makes no difference. The important part is an electrically good connection (which is why I solder) and a mechanically secure mount. Insulating and waterproofing is assumed.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

.......................

Exactly how / where do I put the resistors?

Thanks!

Slip the resistor into the connector at the point where the OEM shocks USED to be connected.

In other words, the resistor is behaving exactly like a "good" solenoid as far as the CVRSS module is concerned.

Jim, How do I do that on my 96 DeVille? I had passives installed over a year ago and keep getting that darn message.. Is it the same thing? Resister value the same?

1355177301_Caddy2.thumb.jpg.40dfc05e0861db8b3e74deec4f75cc76.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It makes no difference. The important part is an electrically good connection (which is why I solder) and a mechanically secure mount. Insulating and waterproofing is assumed.

Thank-you Jim. Yes the resistor will be soldered with heat shrink applied. I will also make sure the mechanic installs the part securely onto the frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...