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ABS C1282


Rickster

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OK. I've done as much reading on this as I can. It talks about Yaw da Yaw da Da Da. It appears to be mostly voltage related. I pulled the fuse and cleaned it.(ABS) It was sort a dirty. Code cams back. As I type, I have disconected the battery to try a reboot. I noticed the green eye on the battery is not bright at all. Does this EBCM run correctly with a not so good battery? It seems I am having battery problems with all my electronoic stuff lately....key fob, computer mouse, clock in house, flashlight, cordless drill and the wifes vibrator(LOL). Just Kidding. But seriously, do you think this code is related to the battery being tired?

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Rickster -- the first fundamental is to have a good battery and good battery cable connections, including the ground. I've seen just about everything int the book traced back to a bad battery or battery cable.

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Rickster -- the first fundamental is to have a good battery and good battery cable connections, including the ground. I've seen just about everything int the book traced back to a bad battery or battery cable.

That's what I've been thinkin. The batery is about 6 years old. Hasn't given me too much trouble in the past but I think I might be due for a new one. By the way, the car handles beter than it ever has in the past with the new tires so I am thinkin hopefully battery.

Thanks

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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A large percentage of the OBD sensors are set to trigger a code above or below a specific voltage level. Depending on the application, there can be a time period involved also.

Your C1282 is the result of one of those voltage monitors; but in this case it is downstream of a five volt regulator. And there is a time period involved. Which leads me to not suspect your battery condition. If your battery can start the engine each and every time you turn the key, I would look elsewhere.

What I would investigate on my car, and recommend to you, will require a good bit of typing and proof reading. Do whatever you are going to do about your battery and let us know the results. I will hold my fingers until we hear from you before I suggest a few other steps to take..

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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To be honest with you Jim, the car has and still does fire up every time I turn the key with lots of crank. So from your post I understand that a battery slightly low would not effect the lower voltage monitors?

So maybe I should save the $100 on a new battery for now and take a peek in other areas to maybe find a simple solution.

Warm up your fingers (LOL)

Thanks

Rick

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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The solution may or may not be simple; finding the problem to apply the solution to is a different horse race.

C1282 is pointing directly at the yaw rate sensor. The sensor could be failed OR the electrical connector and/or the associated wiring could be the problem. First step is to eliminate the wiring.

The yaw rate sensor is bolted to the bottom of the parcel shelf on the far LH side between the rear seat back cushion and the rear glass. You are looking for a more or less rectangular device with a 3 pin connector. Remove the connector and inspect for damaged/corroded pins. Inspect the wire harness for broken wires, chafed insulation or other damage; follow the wire harness as far back into the car as possible.

If you can read the pin identification letters, you should measure approximately 5 volts between pins A and B (key ON) at the chassis side of the connector.

Plug the sensor in, clear the codes, and test drive.

If the code returns, you should go through the same inspection procedure at the EBTCM connector.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Thanks Jim. I will give it a try in the next day or so and report back.

Rick

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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After having a look for the Yaw rate sensor, it appears there is no other way to get at other than removing the back seat back and the back shelf. Is this corect or is there an eaiser way? If this is the only way, I'll have to set aside a half day or so to get er done.

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Iti should be accessable from the trunk by removing the left side trim panel and the trim panel on the bottom of the parcel tray??

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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I'll have an other look Jim. It was starting to get dark so I went to the book after a quick look.

Thanks

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Yup. It was were you said. So here's what has transpired. Yesterday morning the C1282 went into history for half the day and then came back. Crawled in the trunk and pulled the conector. Looks very clean and wires as well. Started up the car while disconected and obviously C1282 and C1283 came up. Shut of car, reconected and so far, no codes. As far as testing voltage 5.09 with key on. will let you know if code comes back.

Thanks

Rick

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Removing and reinstalling a connector is an effective way to remove a thin coating of oxidation from the connector pins and mating surfaces. Doing it three or four times is even better. And then we get to the "spray can of contact cleaner" stage.

Hope you found the issue.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Hope I found it too. Been out for 3 or 4 short trips and nothing yet. Before it would come up on the DIC as soon as I moved the car.

Thanks for all your help so far.

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Well it's been 3 or 4 days and no code. Another sucess story on the board. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to renew my subscription to the board this month. Now about the P0410 .....secondary air injection pump????

The Rickster

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Well it's been 3 or 4 days and no code. Another sucess story on the board. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to renew my subscription to the board this month. Now about the P0410 .....secondary air injection pump????

The Rickster

Well done!

How common is it to see a thin film of oxidation or corrosion on bare metal surfaces where you live? Being close to sea level in a saltwater environment has to generate a few unique conditions. I am unable to locate the electrical schematic for the secondary air control system but I will continue the search.

In the underhood fuse box there will be a 50A fuse and a relay for the secondary air pump. I think it would be worth the time to check the contacts on these two items looking for any signs of corrosion.

Jim

Drive your car.

Use your cell phone.

CHOOSE ONE !

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Well it's been 3 or 4 days and no code. Another sucess story on the board. Thanks for the help. I'll be sure to renew my subscription to the board this month. Now about the P0410 .....secondary air injection pump????

The Rickster

Well done!

How common is it to see a thin film of oxidation or corrosion on bare metal surfaces where you live? Being close to sea level in a saltwater environment has to generate a few unique conditions. I am unable to locate the electrical schematic for the secondary air control system but I will continue the search.

In the underhood fuse box there will be a 50A fuse and a relay for the secondary air pump. I think it would be worth the time to check the contacts on these two items looking for any signs of corrosion.

I will check it out today. Thanks.

Rick

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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  • 4 years later...

By looking at this thread, it was about 6 and 1/2 years ago I had the C1282. Well the bugger is back. I will tomorrow try as I did in the past and hopefully correct the issue. But. I have a question. Would this issue be related to my brakes applying all by themself at 60mph. It felt as if it was the left front. You could feel almost a ABS sensation in the brake pedal. It did slow the car rather quickly but not scary like. I stoped and could feel the brake pedal almost like release the brakes. Headed out again and seemed all normal. No codes were thrown upon the DIC but the C1282 is history. Have been getting the service stab sys lately but always goes into history. Wada ya think boys?

Thanks in advance

Rick

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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  • 5 years later...

Rickster, Were you able to determine what was wrong with your car?  My Caddy did exactly the same thing today - produced the code and then it felt like the brakes were slamming down as the car came to a very sudden halt!  I was lucky that a car didn't slam into me!  Information about what you did to fix this would be greatly appreciated!!

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Re-read the above, its pretty straight forward.  Reset the connector.  Use electrical contact cleaner.  

The original poster did not complain about the brakes engaging.  Do you have any other codes?

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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On Friday, September 02, 2016 at 2:55 PM, bruegelpie said:

Rickster, Were you able to determine what was wrong with your car?  My Caddy did exactly the same thing today - produced the code and then it felt like the brakes were slamming down as the car came to a very sudden halt!  I was lucky that a car didn't slam into me!  Information about what you did to fix this would be greatly appreciated!!

It's been a while since I have run the car. Funny though. I washed her today. Have to get a new rad before I drive it again. As the post said before, I cleaned some connections and it seemed to clear up. As far as the brakes applying out of the blue, I can't remember it happening again. Ehen I get her on the road again, I will report. 

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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Thanks Rickster, I didnt see that the brakes engaged for you also.  Exact same problem

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Just thinking back, I had a broken front spring at that time. Maybe that was somehow throwing a sensor?

2001 STS Mettalic Otter Grey, Black Leather, 213,000 kilometers - miles - ? Still running strong!

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I had the Yaw Rate Sensor replaced and the ABS C1282 indicator doesn't come on, so hopefully the Yaw Rate sensor was the problem.  I really hope that this fixes the problem, since having the brake(s) suddenly engage was a very frightening and dangerous situation that I don't want to reoccur!  

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Glad to hear it thanks for looping back to tell us

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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