BodybyFisher Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Since I dropped my carriage and replaced my LF tranny mount and two dog bones, I have developed an occasional thump on acceleration. I am REALLY hoping that the thrust bearing that I saw was overheated has not blown out (there are two under the side cover on the chain sprocket shafts). I am really hoping that I have a bad mount. First, where are the mounts and does anyone have a scan of their location? Secondly can I be getting a thump on acceleration from a stop from a bad mount? And Third, could replacing the dog bones and LF tranny mount have caused this?, as the next weakest link was compromised? Thanks in advance, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackc Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 can I be getting a thump on acceleration from a stop from a bad mount? That's exactly what my car was doing when the front motor mount was bad. I feared the worst, so my first stop was the tranny shop. He said no prob, its the front motor mount. I replaced it and everything's fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Yea it could be the motor mounts causing that thump on acceleration.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Thanks a lot guys that makes me feel a lot better, I will have to get up under there and look, Thanks again, Mike Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davedog Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 yeah, that's what my eldo was doing when I first bought it, and it was engine mounts. The way we confirmed this was (in an open parking lot with no cars) we opened the hood, had someone watch the engine, then put it in drive, hold the brakes down, and gradually give it some gas (with the brakes still on), and then let off. If the mount is broken you should see the engine rise up alot, then 'thump' back down again. Crystal Red Tintcoat Exterior | Shale/Brownstone Interior | 32k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Hi Mike to check the mounts all you have to do is put the car in drive brake torque it a little bit then go in reverse if those mounts are bad you will hear a big time clunking sound This is a side effect of WOT's & age If I recall the transmission mount go bad I owned a 96 before I had to do all of the mounts I will post a pic if I can I have to figure out how to convert the bmp to jpg to upload it Here's is the how to's from the manual without the pix Jim Removal Procedure Tools Required J 28467-A Engine Support Fixture 1. Remove the cooling fans. Refer to Cooling Fan Replacement in Engine Cooling. Remove the right side fan first. /servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72705/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72705 2. Remove the right and left torque struts. 3. Install the engine support fixture J 28467-A . 4. Raise the vehicle. /servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72854/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72854 5. Remove the two nuts securing the motor mount to the engine cradle. 6. Remove the two bolts securing the motor mount bracket to the crankcase. 7. Lower the vehicle. 8. Remove the two bolts securing the motor mount bracket to the cylinder head. 9. Remove the two nuts securing the motor mount to the bracket. 10. Raise the engine by tightening the support chain until the mount and the bracket can be separated and removed. Installation Procedure /servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72854/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72854 1. Position the motor mount and the bracket in front of the engine. 2. Loosely install two nuts in order to secure the mount to the bracket. 3. Loosely install two bolts in order to secure the mount bracket to the cylinder head. 4. Lower the engine and guide the motor mount studs into the engine cradle. 5. Raise the vehicle. 6. Install two bolts in order to secure the mount bracket to the crankcase. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). <SIO2000=999999998 Notice Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage to parts and systems. <SIO2000=999999999 7. Loosely install two nuts in order to secure the motor mount to the engine cradle. Tighten Tighten the nuts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). 8. Lower the vehicle. 9. Install two bolts in order to secure the mount bracket to the cylinder head. Tighten Tighten the bolts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). 10. Remove the J 28467-A . 11. Install the two nuts in order to secure the motor mount to the bracket. Tighten Tighten the nuts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). 12. Working under the vehicle, tighten the two nuts securing the mount to the engine cradle. Tighten Tighten the nuts to 30 N·m (22 lb ft). /servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72705/servlets/RetrieveTif?pic=72705 13. Install the right and left torque struts. Tighten Tighten the fasteners to 50 N·m (37 lb ft). Adjust in order to provide zero preload as described in this section. 14. Install the cooling fans. Refer to Cooling Fan Replacement in Engine Cooling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted August 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Thanks a lot Jim! Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Mike Email me or post your email I will email you the picture I can't convert the picture it is an R&R picture which my photo software can't convert to jpg I can open them & view them on my pc but I can't upload them to a photo host I tried to upload here maybe it will open but I doubt it I see NO LUCK on the pic just a blank box Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 20, 2007 Ouch, just priced the front engine mount and its $112.00, including shipping, from gmotors. I need it however and will order it this week. Its thumping on acceleration and I am getting a harmonic vibration on the highway on acceleration. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Va Maddog Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Ouch, just priced the front engine mount and its $112.00, including shipping, from gmotors. I need it however and will order it this week. Its thumping on acceleration and I am getting a harmonic vibration on the highway on acceleration. Yes it is a pricy part. The dog bones are not as bad, but you end up spending over $225 just for the parts if you replace all three which I would recommend to anyone dong this. My 95 SLS was making more of a metalic sound which turned out to be the exhaust hitting the frame as the engine flexed too much due to the bad mounts. All three, the lower mpount and the two dog bones on mine were visually damaged with the rubber blocks cracked and separating, etc. It is an expensive fix but it has to be done when they are shot as not replacing them will just lead to more problem,s and more expense. You are a better and more patient man than I if you replace the lower mount yourself. I was not up to raising the engine for that job myself so I paid my trusty mechanic to do that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Ouch, just priced the front engine mount and its $112.00, including shipping, from gmotors. I need it however and will order it this week. Its thumping on acceleration and I am getting a harmonic vibration on the highway on acceleration. Yes it is a pricy part. The dog bones are not as bad, but you end up spending over $225 just for the parts if you replace all three which I would recommend to anyone dong this. My 95 SLS was making more of a metalic sound which turned out to be the exhaust hitting the frame as the engine flexed too much due to the bad mounts. All three, the lower mpount and the two dog bones on mine were visually damaged with the rubber blocks cracked and separating, etc. It is an expensive fix but it has to be done when they are shot as not replacing them will just lead to more problem,s and more expense. You are a better and more patient man than I if you replace the lower mount yourself. I was not up to raising the engine for that job myself so I paid my trusty mechanic to do that one. Yes I need to do this job soon, I am visiting my scrap yard this weekend to see if any are sitting in an old hulk. And you are right, I am feeling vibration transmitted through the car due to this mount. I did replace my dog bones when I dropped my carriage to do my ISS speed sensor in the side pan. I think tilting the engine might have did my front mount in along with replacing the dog bones. About a week after I did my ISS speed sensor and all of that work, I took off like a bat out of hell and think I ripped the mount out... It looks like a tough job, but I am going to tackle it. As usual I will post my experience. Thanks Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Mike The engine mount is not that hard of a job it looks harder than it is. If you have a hoist & the proper stand & air tools it's like a 20 to 30 minute job At home with floor jack,jack stands playing around it could take much longer maybe 1 to 2 hrs that would be getting all the make shift stuff setup to use Getting to the eng mount I would not bother with a used mount mounts get old eng oil eats them up, heat dries out the rubber on the mount I think you are being penny smart & pound foolish to go with a used mount. A mount can look good & be bad Only way to know for sure is install it For a part that costs a little over 100bucks I would go new I would not want to do that job over Altough the second time would be easier to do Good Luck Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 25, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Mike The engine mount is not that hard of a job it looks harder than it is. If you have a hoist & the proper stand & air tools it's like a 20 to 30 minute job At home with floor jack,jack stands playing around it could take much longer maybe 1 to 2 hrs that would be getting all the make shift stuff setup to use Getting to the eng mount I would not bother with a used mount mounts get old eng oil eats them up, heat dries out the rubber on the mount I think you are being penny smart & pound foolish to go with a used mount. A mount can look good & be bad Only way to know for sure is install it For a part that costs a little over 100bucks I would go new I would not want to do that job over Altough the second time would be easier to do Good Luck Jim I agree with you on the used mount, but I want to sell this sucka and if its $115 vs $25, well you get my point. I am even going to grab a used rear knuckle in good shape, its time to cut this car loose. I don't need a car that looks like it belongs in Boca Raton any more (no insult to Boca Ratonites). I spoke to Scott from Lakewood Scrap Yard this morning and he is looking into the parts for me..I think he has them.. Hey I might spend $75 for these used parts (mount and knuckle) instead of $490, I still need to replace my windshield for $400 so any place I can cut the cost, I am doing it. Up till now its been AC DELCO... I obviously will only use a used part if its in good condition.. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Hi Mike I get your point parts are NOT cheap even doing the work yourself cost you valueable time. Time that can be spent doing other things.Been down those roads before Last time it was on the 01dts I fixed it all up then the trns devoloped a crack in the casing So I dumped the car stuff happens I lost 2k on that If I went the GM rebuilt trans route it would have cost me close to 3k to go that route My friend would r&r the trans for $750 that included all the gaskets etc etc.sure would beat doing it in my garage The bone(junk) yards in my neck of the woods have all the parts catalogs with new prices they look up the retail on the new part & try to charge 50% of that for the used part I know some places that are dirt cheap if they have the car with the part you need you can go into the junk yard pull the part When your done show them what you have & sometimes the guy will say give me 20bucks or less can't beat that What is your NEXT car Seville? Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted tcb Posted September 25, 2007 Report Share Posted September 25, 2007 Mike, she's calling to you ... the time is near! 1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver 1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather 1997 STS Diamond White 1999 STS Crimson Pearl 2001 STS Silver 2003 STS, Crimson Pearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Mike, she's calling to you ... the time is near! Jim >> Ted knows what I want! She sure is calling Ted... What is that, it looks like a Revell model? Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted September 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Ted I keep looking at that photo, freakin amazing shot. The paint looks wet. It's making me feel a little funny down there, I gotta get one.... Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ted tcb Posted September 26, 2007 Report Share Posted September 26, 2007 Here's the link I took the picture from. http://images.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http...ficial%26sa%3DN I'm thinking the ideal car for you is a triple black 96 or 97 STS ... with tinted windows, they are among the finest looking cars on the open road. I think even Bruce would agree that the classic STS holds a place in our hearts. 1989 FWD Fleetwood, Silver 1995 STS Crimson Pearl on Black leather 1997 STS Diamond White 1999 STS Crimson Pearl 2001 STS Silver 2003 STS, Crimson Pearl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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