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  2. So I was looking for pictures and all that and found the distributor of this tool and figured what the heck, it's a crazy expensive tool, let them explaint it to me. We worked out the values for the top pictures only and I kid you not, that took 30 minutes after i emailed them the pictures hahahaha we came tot he conclusion: top reads 93.040mm bottom reads 92.925mm which brings taper to 0.115mm to reverse engine this value we concluded that from the top ring of the tool, each click (big-to-small stripe) is 0.005mm, We 14.5 stripes to get to 0 and we did 8 stripes to get to 4, a total of 22.5 stripes x 0.005mm = 0.1125mm and that's a match! unfortunately 0.1mm tolerance and 0.1125 are NOT within specs.. the other cylinder is only 4.5 stripes difference, x0.005 = 0.0225mm taper and that's WELL within specs and indeed not as far as bad as the other one.. LONG time ago i made this little movie with the head-movement: If you would find these measures and look at the movie, what would your suggestion be about the underside of the block? The feeling creeps up at me that i'm in need of a new block.. how's your thoughts on that? I think I cant do just the 'bad' cylinder(s) (didnt measure all 8 but i'm assuming things wont look brighter after) and didn do the other measures, but i'd say it's very likely this block is just past it's lifespan.. and I'm thinking they already replaced the engine with a far worse one than the original 275.000km block that is supposed to be in there.. looking at the contamination on the valves we're thinking the block has ran either double the amount of km's, or or perhaps even AND on propane which would make sense in our part of the world... Feeling a bit sad, I ask: what's your thoughts on this?
  3. Today
  4. Sorry but worst design ever. I call that poor planning. I replace both of my Nissan filters annually and have done many more, but where GM put those is a sin. If you didnt know you would never guess it even had them. How have you confirmed the evaporator is the cause? They do fail but pretty rarely
  5. Yesterday
  6. I think you are spot on. Hard to tell, and I'm not familiar with the tool either but it looks like "Cylinder A" was tapered a lot more than "Cylinder B"... If you can post a pic of the tool and model number or a reference to their website I'll see if I can figure out the readings.
  7. Thank goodness for long needle-nose pliers to pull those guys out! Strangest arrangement ever, with the 3 pieces interlocking as you slide them in. Next to no room to work under there by the gas pedal of course.
  8. Heres a pic of the dirty filter pack I took out!
  9. Just an update of sorts on this... The display still come/goes, seems real random. Sure is nice when it works though! LOL The bigger issue is now I've found I have a leaking AC Evaporator Core, and it will only hold a charge for a couple weeks at best... Of course you have to literally pull the entire dash, console and steering column to replace. I think I'm going to just live with it, at least for the rest of this summer, which is pretty tolerable here in WI.. I should have figured this was where my leak was coming from when I went to change the cabin filter and the thing was just polluted with black gunk, leaves and road grime! Having that packed in there for all those years probably rotted out the AC Core. The evaporator drain hose got plugged twice on me and a lot of black globs where coming out of that tube when I popped it open. Flooded the carpet in the interior both times... Smelled just wonderful of course!
  10. So... new news today after holiday breaks and all... @OldCadTech we measured the folowing bore taper, as in the picture and to me it looks like: cyl1: lower measure - 92.927, upper measure - 93.004, means taper is 0,077mm cyl2: lower measure - 93.0007, upper measure - 93.003, means taper is 0,0023mm Neither me nor my mechanic ever worked with this tool! Rationalizing, it says 1 div. 0.005mm, so we asume one click is 0.005mm, there are 50 clicks in one twist. Cylinder a: We come from (something)click 42.7 and go to (something+1)click 4, so we turned the wheel 7.3 clicks to go to 0, than another 4 clicks, a total of 11.3 clicks that means the taper is 11.3x0.005mm= 0.0565mm Cylinder b: We come from (something) click 0.7 and go to (something) click 4, so we turned the wheel 3.3 clicks. that means the taper is 3.3x0.005mm=.0.0165mm I'm going crazy over this, how come these calculations are not equal, what am I doing wrong? It looks like it's within the 0.1mm tolerance.. but is it? Anybody?
  11. Cadillac today announced the exclusive 2018 Cadillac CTS-V Glacier Metallic Edition, painted a smoky light gray that celebrates Cadillac’s 115-year history. The Edition will be limited to 115 CTS-V super sedans produced in 2017 for model year 2018. View the full article
  12. Cadillac today announced the exclusive 2018 Cadillac CTS-V Glacier Metallic Edition, painted a smoky light gray that celebrates Cadillac’s 115-year history. The Edition will be limited to 115 CTS-V super sedans produced in 2017 for model year 2018. View the full article
  13. Welcome to CaddyInfo. I would be checking your fuel pressure. 47-53 psi IIRC
  14. so good news and bad news. I replaced the cancelling cam kit, and the steering wheel. Love the wheel. Horn is still not really working though, GM had a bad run of airbags around mid 90s and it sucks. The original one used to blow randomly, I had a spare one from my 96 and that one barely works, Cant win. Cant buy one, (I have tried) GM did recall some but I dont think that would do me any good now. I think the only thing I can do is find a 98 or 99 and disassemble the pad from the airbag and reassemble it into mine. Hate to do it but not sure what else to do. When I had my 96 I put a 98 one in that I got lucky enough to get and it never gave me another issue. I need to do that again
  15. update: yay, it starts! still needs a little more work on the timing but it's running now. thanks for your help.
  16. Last week
  17. It will either be on #1 cylinder or it will be on #6 with the timing marks aligned see above response. You have a 50 - 50 chance to get it right.
  18. To clarify, you will need to have the rotor pointing CClockwise or to the left of the #1 cyl position cuz when it drops it will turn Clockwise as it drops into place.
  19. Is it possible, on the 4,9, to install on wrong lap?
  20. One other thing b4 you do that is to make sure they installed the gear correctly to the distributor shaft. The "dot" on the gear must be aligned with the rotor "pointer"
  21. Yes, use a long flat edge screwdriver and turn the oil pump drive shaft to match, if it won't drop in, lift the dist and turn the oil pump shaft a little at a time until it does drop in.
  22. ok, so i'm hoping that i've solved my problem, i'll know when the battery finishes charging. when installing the distributor the teeth have to align with the cam but at the base it also needs to align with the shaft for the oil pump which i couldn't get right so it was always "off". now when i install i align the rotor for #1 and turn the oil pump shaft till every thing is right. maybe she'll fire soon?
  23. Yes, that is the correct procedure. With the timing marks aligned you will be on cyl #1 or cyl #6. if it starts you're good, if it doesn't start lift the dist enough to turn the rotor 180 degrees and align it up to #1. You have a 50 - 50 chance to get it right. finding TDC is a pita... If it STILL doesn't start we will have to regroup.
  24. thank you tech. new distributor is complete, ready to use. new gear, pin, cam sensor, icm, cap, rotor, coil. old distributor had a cap held on by bolts, not the pins that get turned. i must not have it in right. i will check again. am i correct with the following procedure: find compression stroke set timing mark to "0" install distributor with rotor pointing directly at #1 jump pins "a" & "b" on the aldl connector install timing light start car and allow engine to reach operating temp adjust timing to "10" degrees btdc car will not start so i cant set timing.
  25. P012 is no distributor reference, with no dist reference the fuel pump will not turn on because the pcm does not "see" the engine cranking. Are you sure the new distributor was "complete" ? Did it have a drive gear on the bottom. was the drift pin installed through the shaft. Did it have the hall effect and the ignition module installed? Very few are truly "complete" and ready to install. Your original P041 was no hall effect switch signal - you have to push down on the dist cap retainers and then turn C-Clockwise to remove. With the old distributor out crab the retainers from the bottom then pull and turn. Check the old and new distributor connector and make sure all the parts are the same and the wiring and the connector pins are good.
  26. Hello all. Newbie here with a couple of questions. I recently inherited a 95 Deville with the 4.9l and 180k on the clock. Drove the car home. Checked for codes and got p041 and i039. Checked the suspension and po replaced rear shocks with Monroe so not worried about that. I checked the distributor and believe it to be oe so I went to take the cap off only to find ALL the hold down bolts were rusted and stripped so the cap isn't coming off. Purchased new distributor and believe it to be installed correctly but now getting code p012. Also, now there is no fuel pressure @ the rail so that might be either a relay or the pump? All fuses are good. I have also noticed that some one has been into the anti theft as several wires are not attached to any thing but the security light goes out and the car was running like this so now I'm confused. Car cranks but will not start. Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
  27. With respect i'm hitting rev limited to get back fire within intake about 3,000 or less intermittently. Like said this problem been trying to solve for over a year even completely tune car via work I've listened above with parts list or work except for fuel regulator and injectors with I have new in parts box even then it might be a waste of labor because this car really drives well with exception back fire within intake . Tech if you have a minute won't be a bother quick phone call it might clear up confusion 701 850 6451
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