98deville Posted March 1, 2006 Report Share Posted March 1, 2006 Is it a hard job to changeout the compressor myself? I can get an a/c comp. at auto zone for $200... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 What is wrong with the existing compressor that it needs to be replaced? If it is a case leak, then replacement is necessary but if it is just a shaft seal leak, the shaft seal can be replaced with the compressor mounted on the car. Shaft seal replacement requires some specialized tools so most opt to have a shop do the job. The trick is to find a reputable A/C shop that is not a compressor swapper.... Please - do yourself a favor and do not install an Autozone or any other chain store remanufactured compressor on the car. Buy a Delco/Delphi compressor from rockauto.com, gmotors.com or gmpartsdirect.com. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spurlee Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 I agree - buy new and replace the receiver/dryer as well. It's a $30 part and is filled with a material that over time loses it's ability to absorb. As long as you have the system open you might as well replace the filters. They, of course, get clogged. There's much better experts on A/C issues here than I am - listen to what they say and you'll be OK. I just bought a kit from these guys - http://stores.ebay.com/Car-Compressors. All new components, compressor, receiver/dryer, orifice tube and O-rings for less than $300. They apparently only sell A/C parts and do a big volume. Time will tell, but the shop said it's the same components they buy... Scott 1996 El Dorado 2006 STS 2000 Corvette Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BodybyFisher Posted March 2, 2006 Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 I bought my AC Delco/Delphi compressor based on KHE's recommendation from gmotors.com for $260, along with the accumultor/dryer for $75, orifice tube, $5, and an o-ring set for the Cadillac from http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...ROD&ProdID=1060 at KHE's recommendation for $7. I also replaced my condenser (also from gmotors.com) because my compressor spread metal filings throughout the system and clogged the orifice tube. I flushed my system with this kit http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageActi...PROD&ProdID=137 Let us know how your AC is when you are done. Here is a photo of my orifice tube clogged up. If you see the same clogging flush your system. Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1 >> 1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/ Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted March 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2006 a shop I took it to said that the compressor wasn't compressing the air...that the comp. was weak Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 3, 2006 Report Share Posted March 3, 2006 Did the shop provide high and low pressure readings? If so, that would be helpful. If the compressor was not compressing the refrigerant, the high side would be low and the low side would have higher pressure than spec. while the compressor is engaged. If both sides are in the 70-90 psi range and relatively equal, that is the static charge in the system - in that case, the system might just be low on refrigerant. If the compressor is worn - it is highly likely that you have pieces of compressor reed valves in the system - removing and inspecting the orifice tube will tell the whole story. You will need to recover the refrigerant before opening the system. Inspect the compressor - is it oily/greasy? If so, is it oily on the clutch (by the pulley) or is the oily residue along the case? Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98deville Posted March 27, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 27, 2006 "Did the shop provide high and low pressure readings" thats what the mechanic told me that one side was real low and the other high... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted March 28, 2006 Report Share Posted March 28, 2006 "Real low and High" really doesn't provide enough data - do you know the actual values? When a compressor is shot, typically, the low side is near the static pressure (70-90 psi) and the high side is very low. You may be overcharged but that is just a guess based on what I think the readings may be. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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