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Decode my codes please


mhinchley

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I have 2 current and many in history. I was told when I bought it, that it had a bad o2-sensor. I did make the guy sign an affidavit stating that if it was more then that, the car could be returned for a full refund. I did buy the car relatively cheap......$4500. 97 Deville, loaded (except sunroof), imitation convertable top. The entire car is is real good shape. Front seats show some wear but rest of car I would rate excellent. I do have these codes and the headlights are not working. (clean carfax)

PCM P0153 CURRENT

IPC B1152 HISTORY

IPC B2419 HISTORY

IPC U1255 HISTORY

ACM B1347 CURRENT

ACM B1348 HISTORY

SDM B1147 HISTORY

SDM B1148 HISTORY

PZM B1983 HISTORY

PZM B2473 HISTORY

IRC D1740 HISTORY

NO TCS CODES

IRC U1255 HISTORY

IRC U1064 HISTORY

NO RFA CODES

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P0153 - Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1

B1152 - Data Area Full

B2419 - Twilight Photocell Circuit Problem

B1347 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Warning

B1348 - Very Low A/C Refrigerant Pressure

B1983 - Device Power Circuit Low

B2473 - High Beam Fault

U1255 - Class 2 Communication Malfunction (Serial Data Line Malfunction)

U1064 - Loss of Communications with DIM

Don't know the D1740 code

Because of some of the codes you are getting, 1152, 1983, 1255 and 1064, the first thing that I would do if I were you would be to clean the battery connections. This means to remove the positive cable (AFTER removing the negative). Take the RED insulator off of the positive cable (watching how you take it apart) and clean the two cables and the lead lug that is between them. You will probably find white acid buildup in there. If there is a washer WATCH were it goes. Use battery terminal cleaner or baking soda and water. When the positive terminal is tightened (don't over tighten you can crack the battery case), make sure the cables are tight and not able to be turned if you grab them by hand. Sometimes, the bolt is too long and bottoms out and a washer is needed as the lead lug squashes smaller and you can't get the joint tight.

Note that the contact mating surface on the battery can get 'dented' from the cable contactors, try to find an 'undented' place to connect the positive cable by turning the cable so you get a tighter connection, continually placing the cable in the 'dented' location works against a good connection especially if the bolt is bottoming out. You can get your codes here:

http://myweb.accessus.net/~090/dtcobd2.html

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well atleast he did not lie about the O2 sensor. Now if I can just figure out the headlamp issue, maybe it will be ok. I read alot of previous posts and plan to flush coolant system, and change all fluids in car in the near future, as I have no records on car. Thanks for the info.

As if I don't have enough problems, I bought a 93 Mark VIII with 69k miles as well. Have to fly to Pennsylvania on next Thursday to pick that one up......so let's hope those headlights work.....lol. But I figured a Lincoln and a Caddy would be nice to alternate with.

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We will be interested in your impressions about the Lincoln and Cadillac differences. Personally I find Ford mechanicals to be very different than the GM way of doing things. Its like working on a foreign car :lol:

Pre-1995 - DTC codes OBD1  >>

1996 and newer - DTC codes OBD2 >> https://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/gm/obd_codes.htm

How to check for codes Caddyinfo How To Technical Archive >> http://www.caddyinfo.com/wordpress/cadillac-how-to-faq/

Cadillac History & Specifications Year by Year  http://www.motorera.com/cadillac/index.htm

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Well atleast he did not lie about the O2 sensor. Now if I can just figure out the headlamp issue, maybe it will be ok. I read alot of previous posts and plan to flush coolant system, and change all fluids in car in the near future, as I have no records on car. Thanks for the info.

As if I don't have enough problems, I bought a 93 Mark VIII with 69k miles as well. Have to fly to Pennsylvania on next Thursday to pick that one up......so let's hope those headlights work.....lol. But I figured a Lincoln and a Caddy would be nice to alternate with.

You do not need to flush anything (neither coolant nor ATF) just drain by removing lower radiator hose. Put some 2-3 tubes of Bar's Leaks golden seal powder fro 1.44 from Wal-Mart in the lower hose before putting it back and refilling with antifreeze. If the antifreez in your system orange (DEXCOOL) go with DexCool. If it is green go with green stuff and change it every two years.

The saddest thing in life is wasted talent

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