Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks Jim, Jim what do you do for a living? I notice a propensity toward electronics... Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thank you Larry, Mike and Kevin! I'm still a little confused. Is the clutch bearing the same as the hub bearing and pulley bearing...all the same bearing, just different names? So in order to do this job, are these the steps involved: 1. Remove the clutch plate w/ the special clutch plate removal tool. 2. Remove the pulley bearing...should pull right off w/ no puller if lucky. If not, can I use a standard gear puller? The bearings that are bad are in this pulley. 3. I will then be able to see and inspect the clutch coil. In order to remove the clutch coil if necessary...will I need that special clutch removal tool? 4. Replace pulley w/ new pulley that have the bearings inside, or have the new bearings pressed into the old pulley. I'm not sure of a place to go to have the bearings pressed into the pulley, any ideas? 5. Replace clutch plate. At what step do I measure the clutch air gap distance and where is this clutch plate? Is there a snap ring somewhere I need to remove? How can I find out what size threads are on my compressor so I know which clutch plate tool to rent or buy? Sorry for all the questions. We are all referring to the same bearing. The shop manual calls it the rotor bearing. You will need to remove the clutch plate with Mike's remover tool. Once the clutch plate is removed (don't loose the key), there is a snap ring that retains the pulley. You will need a second puller and a guide tool. The second puller engages in the innermost slots in the pulley. Tighten the puller screw against the guide to remove the pulley assembly. Clean all mating surfaces. You must properly support the pulley when removing the bearing or the pulley will be distorted (don't support the pulley by the rim or it will be destroyed. Drive out the old bearing with a suitable driver tool or use an arbor press. File the staked area as to provide adequate clearance for the new bearing and press in the new bearing. Use a suitable staking tool stake the bearing in place at three points 120 degrees apart. Do not allow the deformed material to contact the outer race of the bearing or it could be damaged. Install the pulley onto the compressor with the pulley installer tool and then install the key in to the slot. Using the clutch plate installer tool, tighten the bolt several turns and then remove to assure the key is sin place in the keyway and then reinstall the tool and install the clutch plate. Use feeler gages to check the air gap - it should be .020-.030" Use the installer remover tool to adjust the air gap. If the gap is too small, grinding/squealing may occur when the A/C compressor is not engaged. Too great of an air gap will result in the clutch not engaging. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks Kevin! Sounds like I'll be replacing my pulley and avoiding the bearing R&R. So I need a second puller and guide tool as well. Hey mike, do you have one of those in your arsenal as well? If not, do you know where I can purchase one? I'll call around and see if there's one available for rent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks Jim, Jim what do you do for a living? I notice a propensity toward electronics... Mike Retired, Mike. I have an electronics background (Avionics, including RF) and I make the effort to keep up with (GM) automotive applications. When I was in the work force, I used my Business education to keep red beans and rice on the table. Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 .... There should be a way to measure the resistance of the coil to ensure its OK, what do you think about that theory? Theory is OK. But with modern A/C clutch coils, there is a potential problem for DIY'ers reading the DC resistance of the coil with an Ohmeter. A clutch coil that is not faulty, and is operating as designed, will display a very low DC resistance (as in 1 Ohm or less). Resistance of 1 Ohm or less can be mistakenly diagnosed as a "shorted" or faulty coil winding. Most modern GM A/C clutch coils will measure ~~ 1 Ohm resistance. But that is only the DC resistance of the "pull-in" coil winding. After the clutch is engaged, the coil circuit resistance is increased (via smoke and mirrors) such that the "hold-in" coil resistance is much higher. The "hold-in" coil resistance can be calculated. But but not easily measured with an Ohmeter. If the coil looks visibly ok, I guess I'll take my chances. The AC works fine now, no blown fuses, and the clutch is pulling in and out just fine...just noisy as heck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry94 Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Should the new pulley just slide right onto the shaft? If not, do I need a pulley installer or can I tap it on? Should the new pulley just slide right onto the shaft? If not, do I need a pulley installer or can I tap it on? I think that my installer should pull the clutch plate back into position, is that right Barry? I am going to lend epriced my removal/installer tool.... I have this tool: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=1277 Yes Scotty, you're correct. The tool does both jobs, remove and install. Once you use the tools, then it seems so simple. It's that first time that is intimidating. epricedright ---- No No on the tapping on. 2008 STS V82016 Colorado Z711970 Corvette LT-1 Coupe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks Kevin! Sounds like I'll be replacing my pulley and avoiding the bearing R&R. So I need a second puller and guide tool as well. Hey mike, do you have one of those in your arsenal as well? If not, do you know where I can purchase one? I'll call around and see if there's one available for rent. Is this the type of pulley remover I need? How would this type help put the pulley back on? And wouldn't a regular 3 jaw type pulley remover work for removal? http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=6498 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Should the new pulley just slide right onto the shaft? If not, do I need a pulley installer or can I tap it on? Should the new pulley just slide right onto the shaft? If not, do I need a pulley installer or can I tap it on? I think that my installer should pull the clutch plate back into position, is that right Barry? I am going to lend epriced my removal/installer tool.... I have this tool: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=1277 Yes Scotty, you're correct. The tool does both jobs, remove and install. Once you use the tools, then it seems so simple. It's that first time that is intimidating. epricedright ---- No No on the tapping on. I wouldn't tap on the clutch plate if I had Mike's pulley remover/installer for the clutch plate. My concern is how do I put on the pulley itself if it's stubborn, not the clutch plate. I guess I need to find a pulley remover that is also an installer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 You will need a puller/installer specifically for removing the hub, see this tool http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=1277 The AC hub bearing and AC pulley bearing are the same. Using that tool you pull the clutch plate and the pulley with bearing should come off relatively easy, although a puller may be required. I purchased the pulley at NAPA for my 91 for about $90 if I recall. You may be able to just buy a new bearing and press it in Is this the pulley remover/installer I need...the one Mike has posted here that is in the attached image? Please look at Mike's original post to see his attached image(it's the one w/ the crossbar)...it's not showing up in this reply for some reason. If so, does anyone know where I can find one of these at a good price? Does this one also R&R the clutch coil? And would this one work w/ the compressor still on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 epriced, I am going to be out of commission today, I am finishing an assignment. See the puller in this thread, he called it a run of the mill puller. You can rent one but I have seen them at Sears. Look at this one, http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00930173000 And this one http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00946905000 Send me your address in an email and I will pack up this tool and send it to you, as soon as I can, Mike http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=7049 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks Kevin! Sounds like I'll be replacing my pulley and avoiding the bearing R&R. So I need a second puller and guide tool as well. Hey mike, do you have one of those in your arsenal as well? If not, do you know where I can purchase one? I'll call around and see if there's one available for rent. Is this the type of pulley remover I need? How would this type help put the pulley back on? And wouldn't a regular 3 jaw type pulley remover work for removal? http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAct...ROD&ProdID=6498 That would work - it is just like the Kent-Moore tool described in the shop manual. I would think a 3-Jaw puller would work just fine, be much cheaper, and be useful for other jobs. A decent US made 3-jaw puller is about $35-40. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 epriced, I am going to be out of commission today, I am finishing an assignment. See the puller in this thread, he called it a run of the mill puller. You can rent one but I have seen them at Sears. Look at this one, http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00930173000 And this one http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...pid=00946905000 Send me your address in an email and I will pack up this tool and send it to you, as soon as I can, Mike http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=7049 I have a set of three 3-jaw type pullers already, that should work about the same as these 2-jaw type pullers. My concern though is how will those type pullers help me put the pulley back on. If it doesn't slide on easily, and if I can't tap the pulley back on, then won't I need some type of pulley installer? And what about getting that coil off and on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 its easy, find a piece of 6 inch all-thread that fits the compressor, screw it in put the pulley on, put on a big washer, a nut and screw it into place watching the air gap, at some point put the installer on and use it if you want..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 its easy, find a piece of 6 inch all-thread that fits the compressor, screw it in put the pulley on, put on a big washer, a nut and screw it into place watching the air gap, at some point put the installer on and use it if you want..... OK, so are there female threads on the end of the compressor that I can screw an all-thread into? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 its easy, find a piece of 6 inch all-thread that fits the compressor, screw it in put the pulley on, put on a big washer, a nut and screw it into place watching the air gap, at some point put the installer on and use it if you want..... OK, so are there female threads on the end of the compressor that I can screw an all-thread into? No, that's a male tread on the end of the compressor shaft, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 True.... I have to look at my tool and see how long the installer is.... (close your eyes Marika! ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 OK here is my tool, notice that it has about a 2" long female screw to attach to the compressor's shaft, HTH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks for the pic Mike! I'm sure I can use that installer to get the job done...maybe using some big washers for spacers to push the pulley on. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 Thanks for the pic Mike! I'm sure I can use that installer to get the job done...maybe using some big washers for spacers to push the pulley on. Thanks again! That won't be necessary as you back out the bolt you will pull the pulling into place... I will ship it tomorrow, how soon do you plan to use it? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 25, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 ASAP! I plan to take it apart as soon as I get your tool, then order the parts, and then put it back together once the parts come in. Don't worry, I won't keep it for 6 months. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 25, 2005 Report Share Posted October 25, 2005 ASAP! I plan to take it apart as soon as I get your tool, then order the parts, and then put it back together once the parts come in. Don't worry, I won't keep it for 6 months. No rush, I am not planning on doing any AC work any time soon.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 26, 2005 Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 epricedright, I sent the R&R tool from the post office today (2 day) arrival, Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 26, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2005 Thank You!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epricedright Posted October 29, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 I received your remover/installer yesterday...Thank You Scotty! I'm gonna start working on it tonight or tomorrow. I'll be sure to post how it went. Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted October 29, 2005 Report Share Posted October 29, 2005 Have fun... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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