what kinda performance brake r out there

[KHE]

So as Kevin mentioned, you can use a one-man brake bleeder kit. I've seen those kits in the Griots Garage catalogs before, but I'm sure I can get a one-man bleed kit for less than 70 bucks. I'll look into it.

Just like the brakes themselves, I'm sure once I actually buy the kit and do it, I'll find that it's much easier than I anticipated it being.

Jason,

It's cheaper to have your wife work the brake pedal while you opereate the wrench. I did it that way for years until I bought a vacuum pump.

You can buy a Mityvac professional series vacuum pump kit new for $60 - it can be used for much more than bleeding brakes. I bought mine on ebay a few years back for $35...I wanted the professional model as it is completely cleanable/rebuildable (in case you accidentally suck in brake fluid... ) where the low end models are not.

Mike,

Yes - it is a good Idea to pump up the pedal to bleed off the vacuum in the system prior to bleeding the brakes.

[KHE]

Cool Jason, let us know how it works out. the only problem I see however is your bleeder screws may be rusted solid, be careful, use a 6 point wrench, not 12 point. I would begin soaking them down with a good rust/bolt loosener... Be careful with this, I have seen more than my share of bleeders break off... Anyone have any ideas with this?

Have a look at these, I like them, Kevin you think these are compatible with Caddy ABS systems?

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

I just sent an email to speed bleeder to see if they are available for Cadillacs

AD>>> These are pretty cool and are getting rave reviews from all the magazines and auto web sites. They eliminate time consuming and messy brake bleeding and make it a one-person job! Simply install, loosen 1/2 turn, slowly step on the brakes about 4-5 times, tighten and you're done! This valve bleeds the brakes without allowing air back into the system using a spring check valve! Simple and Ingenious! COST and TIME EFFECTIVE!

Unfortunately, I do have expierence with broken bleeder screws... I always use my torque wrench to install them so I don't overtighten them and then they have less of a tendency to snap off. Usually it's the rear wheel cylinders in a drum system that snap - they are so small compared to the front caliper bleeder screws.

I had one in the Park Avenue snap off - even after soaking it with penetrant. I went to remove the wheel cylinder and the brake line fitting wouldn't budge and I just knew I would snap it off. An acyteleyne torche come in very handy in cases like that. I heated the brake line fitting and it then was easily removed. I then removed the wheel cylinder and clamped it into a vise. I removed the seals and springs and then used the torch to heat the casting and then the broken stub came out with an easy-out. A light honing and a new wheel cylinder kit and I was back in business.

Those bleeder screws are interesting but I prefer to bleed with two people or use the mityvac.

[Scotty]

I got this email response from speed bleeder (things that make you go HMMM), the stainless steel ones are looking pretty cool to me, NO MORE loosening problems as they never corrode! yea: I just replaced my WIFE! I think they should advertise it as "replace your frustrating bleeding partner for $30" no more DOWN/UP, DOWN/UP!

By the way, I asked him if the bleeders are available for Seville's and Eldo's during the 90's and 00's, will report his answer. I'm sure they are.

***********response from speed bleeder **********************

The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:

Front....SB1015

Rear.....SB1015

When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the "Bleeder / Bag Combo". It will make bleeding your brakes even easier. It consists of a 30 inch length of silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a bleeder bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals. Attach one end of the hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. Open the Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel cylinder. The fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary mess.

Speed Bleeder can be ordered at http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com

Thanks

Michael Sulwer

[JasonA]

I saw this article on bleeding brakes:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

Although I do plan to do it, the article does say that on most modern systems, a brake bleed is not needed, ever, unless air has been let into the system during a brake job or other modification.

[Scotty]

I saw this article on bleeding brakes:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

Although I do plan to do it, the article does say that on most modern systems, a brake bleed is not needed, ever, unless air has been let into the system during a brake job or other modification.

Well there you go Jason, you are in good shape

[KHE]

I saw this article on bleeding brakes:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_howto_bleedbrakes.shtml

Although I do plan to do it, the article does say that on most modern systems, a brake bleed is not needed, ever, unless air has been let into the system during a brake job or other modification.

I recall a powertrain engineer stating that it was a good idea to purge the brake fluid every 10 years/100,000 miles. I've added that to my maintenance schedules as I keep cars for a lone, long time...

[Scotty]

Well I guess you are 45K over then better get crack a laken.

But that powertrain engineer gets a new car every three months to abuse...

[Scotty]

Speed bleeder got back to me with this regarding Seville's and Eldorado's

The sizes are the same SB1015 until you go back to '78 then the size changes to a standard size, SB3824, 3/8 x 24, front and rear disc. Rear drum SB51624, 5/16 x 24.

Thanks,

Whitney

http://www.speedbleeder.com/

[JasonA]

I recall a powertrain engineer stating that it was a good idea to purge the brake fluid every 10 years/100,000 miles.  I've added that to my maintenance schedules as I keep cars for a lone, long time...

I'm probably beating a dead horse, but I also recall that powertrain engineer saying that the manufacturer knows best, follow the manufacturer's recommendations, whether it's for oil usage, air filter usage, whatever. They did not list "purge brake system" as a 100,000 mile service, so I'm not overly concerned about it (like the transmission fluid).

I agree that it's "good to do", and I plan to do both soon. But I look at these much like I do oil changes. I don't like to discard a product before its useful life has expired. If the maintenance schedule said to purge the system at 100k, you can be sure I'da done it!

[Scotty]

We had a prior discussion regarding the BEDDING procedure, and someone said it was not necessary and that the manual states not to be hard on brakes for the first 200 miles... In the past we had a technical guru that could spout facts and details like John Roberts did over the last week we could always lean on him for the final word. Unfortunately, we are attempting to recover from his loss, here is information that I hope will shed some light on our prior discussion. I am sorry for my prior emotional response on this subject:

Things have changed and old dynasaurs like myself have had to re-learn things, and this is one of those things that I needed to re-learn. See this technical paper for more on bedding:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedintheory.shtml

Here is BEDDNG FAQ:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml

Here is info on BEDDING OEM braking systems:

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Mike

[Scotty]

I'm beating a dead horse now, but above someone said they DON'T use their brakes hard at all, and I said THAT could be part of the problem!!! Well here is the TECHNICAL REASONING behind my statement that wussy braking could be the problem:

FAQ #3: What do you mean I “un-bedded” the brakes?

If any brake pad is used below its adherent operating temperature, it will create friction through primarily abrasive mechanisms, slowly but surely removing the transfer layer on the rotor. For this reason, most street/performance pads like to be driven just a little bit aggressively every now and again to maintain a proper transfer layer of pad material on the rotor face.

If the brakes are used passively for an extended period of time, the transfer layer can be completely removed, effectively un-bedding the brakes. The brake system will still perform well under normal driving conditions, but before heading to the autocross or your favorite canyon back road you will want to perform a bed-in procedure. Failing to do so will only increase the risk of TV generation

TV means THICKNESS VARIATION. Here is the link to this statement

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml

[Scotty]

If the term thickness variation is not understood, these concepts are more difficult. If you can visualize the part of the rotor that the inner and outer brake pads clamp on to to stop the car, if there is any variation in the thickness of the rotor throughout the area where the pads grip the rotor as the rotor turns this will be felt as pulsation in the steering wheel and throughout the frame of the car.

[JasonA]

I had to use my brakes REAL hard one time a few months ago. Like, a panic stop from 45-50 to zero (someone pulled out in front of me). Full ABS engagement and steering to miss the car. The Seville performed beautifully. Anyway, for the next few miles, my brakes felt REAL GOOD, like the pads needed to be heated up in order to really grab. I bet it's good for the brakes to use them hard every once in a while, like Scotty said. Keeps that "transfer layer" on the brake rotors.

Just like the engine, I guess the brakes can get "crusty" if not used to full capacity occassionally.

[Scotty]

Exactly Jason!

[etcxtc]

Trying my best to make dead horse sounds!

[Scotty]

Trying my best to make dead horse sounds!

Dead horses make noise?

[Niteryder]

Any consideration of the pros & cons of cross-drilled & slotted, vrs. just cross-drilled?

[Scotty]

Any consideration of the pros & cons of cross-drilled & slotted, vrs. just cross-drilled?

See this site:

http://www.powerstoprotors.com/

A few on this board have used these rotors. Cross Drilled rotors run 200 to 250 degrees cooler, slotted run 100 degrees cooler and cross-drilled and slotted run the coolest. SLotted rotors are harder on brake pads. One of our members Jadcock uses drilled rotors and has not experienced any more pulsating. This is undoubtedly due to the fact that they run cooler. In either case its very important to inspect drilled and slotted rotors for cracking, how often is up to you, I would probably take a peek at tire rotation time. Supposedly, drilled rotors with chamfered holes resist cracking better.

Also visit http://www.stoptech.com/

Click stoptech products and technical information.

Here are a couple of cool sites on brakes

http://www.baer.com/

http://www.brembo.com/ENG

http://www.bendixbrakes.com/

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/index.jsp

http://www.performancefriction.com/

[Scotty]

More interesting sites

http://www.kleemann.dk/site/Main/accessories/brakes

http://www.raybestos.com/