JIMDTS Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 Hi The engine was just torn apart and it has a new water pump and thermastat. A few 5 to 10 times per day the temp will creep up past the center stay at the temp in the pic and go back down to the center after a few minutes and stay at the center until it creeps up again Any concern? the car has never done this with the old stat and water pump..What causes this is this the stat opening and closing or the anti freeze boiling Any ideas it's serviced at the correct level for the coolant.. 333 miles so far after the rebuild.Here's the pic of the gauge when it creeps up never goes any higher than this.. Thanks Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 I would suspect that this is normal. You are seeing the fans kick on and drop the temps. Are you stopped or in stop and go traffic when this happens? I have a digital readout and in traffic I will cycle from 215 to 226 over and over as the fans kick on and off. DO you have your AC off or on? With the AC on the fans are constantly on and you might not see this cycling as much.. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 Hi Scotty The ac is on and it's been hot out 83f here now. It does it all the time sometimes in traffic sometimes on the freeway etc. I'm just curious it has only done this a few times before the rebuild You could count all the times it has done this in the past 2 yrs. on one hand When the fans kick in it goes down but before it was almost rock steady dead center. So far no coolant loss which I have been monitoring the coolant level ,checking the oil since I picked the car up.. Heck I feel almost like I'm doing a preflight inspection before I fire it up in the morning..Another couple hundred miles and I'll change the oil and filter.. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 I would suspect that you have some air trapped in the system, maybe some one will post how to clear it... I am sure the engine is still stabilizing even though after 333 miles it should be already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted June 14, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 Hi Scotty I don't think it's air the only thing I can think is the coolant may not be the proper mix but i hate to dump it I don't have the equip. to properly check the mix. As far as air I think it would have bled itself by now after the first few cool downs after sitting overnight. But you never know. Heck I have to go back to the dealer in a few days when the part I need comes in I'll have them check it just for GP reasons.. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaddyChris Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 A nice tight engine could get a little hotter than one that is worn in. Chris Christopher Petro 94 sts 67 coupe de Ville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaddyChris Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 Hey, why don't u go into the DIC and see how high it gets. Someone spoke about it before and it is not that bad. Chris Christopher Petro 94 sts 67 coupe de Ville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted June 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hi cpetro45 I don't know how to bring up the actual eng. temp with the dic I can read the codes but no actual temp Anyone know how to bring up this feature Thanks Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotty Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Jim I am thinking about adding a fan in front of the condenser pulling air out that I can control from inside the car, what do you think of these fans? Mike http://www.ackits.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Electric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ranger Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Mike, I think you are looking for trouble. When your fans kick on and you turn on the aux fan you install, they'll be pulling air in the opposite directions and you'll overheat sure as $hit. When you are not running it, it'll be blocking air flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TDK Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Guys, This topic reminds me about ole "Potter", who used to run the compressors (3) 5,000-hp syntheses gas turbo-charged, natural gas fueled beasts - lumbering forever at 315 rpm tops.. He would listen and sleep in the chair most of the time... But when his foot went to sleep (before the rest of him) - then he would check the engines over for whatever might be causing the vibration. Actually, they ran fairly well and all...for Potter. Then we got the fancy vibration analysis equipment and there was always trouble pending - and the machines were down more than ever.... Might this be a problem with (dare I say) "too much information" ? I say run the SOB (hard) and if it "coughs or codes" - then maybe take another look. IMHO ...and I had a festive dinner with drinks - so my apologies go out fortwith... I'll have 'nother "bass of gleer", etc ...and its been a bit dull on the board lately - so there you have it...! Add power to leave problems behind. Most braking is just - poor planning. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted June 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hi Scotty I would not bother with a fan but I'm curious why would you want to blow it out i think it would work better if blowing into the condenser blowing out it may cause the car to over heat it may interrupt the cooling air drag for the radiator and cause it to overheat Gm Has done a pretty good job on cooling designs in the past couple decades. Heck all I have ever done is went to a heavy duty radiator and never worried about a condenser sometimes a radiator shop can work magic with radiators by adding a double row radiator vice the single row on most cars.Ya never know though it could improve your cooling the far is reversible so if you gat hot blowing out swith it around It May work out for you..but on the flip side if the fan dies it will disrupt the air flow Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaddyChris Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hey, apparently you can't get the DIC to display the info on later models, I don't know what the year is or if it is true but I would still try anyway, here is the thread http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=179 Chris Christopher Petro 94 sts 67 coupe de Ville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimD Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hey, apparently you can't get the DIC to display the info on later models, I don't know what the year is or if it is true but I would still try anyway, here is the thread http://caddyinfo.ipbhost.com/index.php?showtopic=179 Chris That digital temperature display option is not available on '98 to '04 Sevilles and '00 (I'm 90% sure of that year) to current Devilles. However, the coolant temperature electrical signal is available at the OBD connector. If you can borrow a Tech2 type device, you can read the temperature. And I agree with the "too much information" philosophy! Jim Drive your car. Use your cell phone. CHOOSE ONE ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WarrenJ Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 The engine was just torn apart and it has a new water pump and thermastat. You MAY have answered your own question! A few weeks ago Scotty was surprised when I reported my engine ran at 180 degrees in cool weather. He asked if I had a 180 degree thermostat. I answered that I simply didn't know; I hadn't installed the thing and was unaware of its temperature rating. Today, in 93 degree humid afternoon temperatures, with the A/C ON (windows open . . . . energy PIG!), I recorded 212 coolant degrees on the highway. About normal for me. 221, on average, around town. What temp. rating was your old thermostat? What temp. rating is the new one? Is the waterpump OEM or aftermarket? We're not too fond of the aftermarket variety around here. Properly mixed anitfreeze won't boil until close to 260 degrees. By that point you'll be in camel mode, and the DIC will tell you to turn off the engine. It's imperative that your water/antifreeze be a 50/50 mix. Regards, Warren There is no means of avoiding the final collapse of a boom brought about by credit expansion. The alternative is only whether the crisis should come sooner as the result of a voluntary abandonment of further credit expansion, or later as a final and total catastrophe of the currency system involved. - Ludwig von Mises Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JIMDTS Posted June 15, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Hi Jim D I'll give it a try later today but I'll get the car on a tech 2 just to see what actual temp is when it creeps up(I'm curious) I think it's ok just different Cheers Jim Hi Warren All Delco parts Not sure what the old stat temp was or what the new temp is the dealer installed the new stat and water pump when it was torn down for the rings and pistons..I was at the dealer when the engine was being torn down and never looked at all the old parts I only looked at some of the parts plugs, rings, pistons Just a quick look between the old water pump and the new I noticed the seal was a different color blue vice black updated seal I think I was just curious if the rings were stuck on the pistons or were they loaded with carbon how the piston bores looked I like to look at things like that when I can.I was amazed at how the inside of northstar wears I didn't notice any visible wear on anything even the timing chain and sprockets looked like new along with everyting else I talked to the mechanic and mentioned this he told me even the one with over 100k on them they show no wear .. Cheers Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blunted Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 I probably wouldn't worry about it, especially if it goes back down. My car has been hitting 230-234 while idling on these summer days with my A/C on.. but as Guru would say, stop looking at the readout and drive it since even 240 is supposed to be "acceptable" under certain conditions... I might go throw some "water wetter" in there anyway since a few people have said it makes their temp drop. I was wondering though, what is the proper way to burp the system on a northstar?.. I started thinking it might have air in it since I opened up the cap to check the coolant, I tried to warm it up without the cap to hopefully let any air escape but then you see the coolant level rising and looks like it might start coming out if I keep the cap off any longer. If i'm not mistaken, aren't you supposed to put the heat on or something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KHE Posted June 17, 2005 Report Share Posted June 17, 2005 I was wondering though, what is the proper way to burp the system on a northstar?.. I started thinking it might have air in it The system is self purging - the 3/8 line from the water pump crossover casting to the surge tank is the purge line. Kevin '93 Fleetwood Brougham '05 Deville '04 Deville 2013 Silverado Z71 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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